I would do OEM over Kibblewhite. Check ebay, sometimes there are NOS kit parts hanging around for pretty reasonable $. I'm not an engine builder, but if it were my bike I would do a stock bore JE piston kit, thin head gasket and OEM valve springs and retainers. Would be a potent little machine.
Why JE over OEM for pistons, if aiming to be superstock legal? (To be SS viable they can't weigh less, or change compression. I haven't compared cost vs OEM.) And thus down the rabbit hole I go... looking at the cost of parts alone, the extra labor to bounce over the supersport into superbike territory isn't that much in comparison... if you're swapping pistons why not up compression? If you're throwing $600+ for springs/valves at a head, why not let a carbide burr massage the porting at the same time you have the head decked?
I've seen comments suggesting the 05 frame was stiffened to go along with the change to an USD front end, will that be detrimental to using with the 03/04 conventional front end? (Investigating the 05 parts collection that just went up for sale, my frame is missing the tabs for the black middle bits on the upper fairing. If the 05 frame is in nicer shape, assuming no negatives I'd just swap over seeing as I'm pulling it down to the motor either way.)
After having two different people tell me to hammer the valves, I decided to give it a go. Kinda fun making the exhaust sound off on demand! Net result, intakes appear to be sealing now, exhaust I can just hear leaking by still, and there is clearly air going by the rings. I'm reading about 4 to 6% leakdown on that cylinder now. Shim it and run it, or acknowledge that it's in need of TLC and do the right thing from the start?
It appears there was carbon/dirt on the valve, from what I just read? I wouldn't worry about 4-6% leak down, just go ride it. This is an old bike, not something you are trying to win the Daytona 200 on, go have fun.
I don't even expect to see the podium in LRRS on it. Now, if the shims I ordered two weeks ago weren't on back order into NEXT month...
This is what you need. Pretty cheap compared to buying OEM shims and waiting? http://www.motosport.com/hotcams-valve-shim-kit?mmy=yamaha;yzf-r6;2004&mmy_source=pdp
I've got a Wiseco kit, just used all three 1.85s on the FZR, and need 4 more... plus by getting Honda OEM ones I can get half steps like the six 1.875s I ordered. Just didn't plan on the backlog to be so long on something so common.
So, some luck on my side for a change, final batch of shims are going in the mail today according to the shipping notifications I got. I wasn't looking forward to an additional month wait.
Shimmed, after slapping the crap off the valves only two moved and not excessively. Putting my way through re-assembly, cleaning as I go. Does anyone still make a front fender that is adjusted to account for 120/70 tires + warmers?
i have never had an issue with Sharkskinz fender running chickenhawk warmers, and Michelin has the tallest front 120/70 out there (by a smidge)
Yup, this R6 hates me. Get it buttoned back together enough to fire up and running on three cylinders?! Cylinder #4 is clearly cold. Pull the coil, throw a plug in and fire it in diag mode, nice healthy spark. Fire the injector and I can just make out the quietest of faint ticks. Fire injectors #1 through #3 and they click noticeably. These injectors have all of 30 minutes of run time since coming back from ProFlow in Feb, and one has died. What kind of luck is that?! I tossed in one of the original injectors in it's place, bike fires up and idles smoothly. This R6 hates me. On the fender front, I've got two glass fenders, neither is labeled. One is thicker/heavier built and I bet it'd have tire rub at speed, the thinner one is closer than I'd like but I can get Woodcraft warmers under it. I'll run that for now (once I get the bike sorted).
So, still acting funny. With or without the PC3 it starts and idles beautifully. Light throttle, right there. If you go WFO from low RPMs it bogs and sputters, won't build revs. Ease it up to 8k RPM and it'll scream like a banshee at WFO. This is with full airbox and runners, and in 6th gear to try and simulate some load as I've no place to test around me. Acts the same in neutral. leakdown - good compression - good valves - adjusted, timing as per service manual new plugs and coils new OEM air filter 3 out of 4 injectors Pro-Flowed throttle bodies sync'd at both idle (bleed screws) and 1/3rd throttle (butterflies) fuel pump rebuilt Supply side fuel line replaced TPS and other sensors appear to be good based on diag mode readouts Cleaning, so much cleaning of everything... Bike did the same before I put the slide stops and all the TLC / maint. I'm at a loss as to where to go next.
Plan C - Time to throw a professional at it I think. Suggestions on who to challenge with my ye olde problem?
Yikes. I got nothing for that area. You need a good race technician with a dyno and maybe some spares to test. Maybe someone else here might have someone. I bet the weather's pretty nice in the summer, though.
Summer would be better if I didn't spend most of it in my garage banging my head against a wall. Just to make sure I'm not crazy, pulled the slide stops, bike still hits about 6k RPM and stutters at WFO if you don't ease it past first so those aren't the culprit.
