Are you sure it's not a half stick of dynamite wedged as far under the rack as possible? I feel like that might be the answer... I will be investing in a long allen driver, ideally with a flex shaft if I can find one. In the mean time I was able to get the coolant operated wax cylinder assembly off so I don't need to pull the throttle bodies to complete my work. What a pain, and that assembly is not going back.
you get to 2 of them from one direction, the other 2 from other direction. as someone posted above, need a long allen (i think it's bigger than 3mm though) and a wratchet extension.
Be smarter than the clamps. You do need a long 3mm Allen ball end. Snap-On used to make one for Bosch FI, but discontinued it. Bondhus makes something similar, McMaster has it The way the factory installs the clamps is more difficult. I would usually yank the TBs without loosening and then rearrange the clamps for better access when I re installed. This is no longer factory. Emry might not like it.
Got it all done without pulling the throttle bodies. I'll be investing in a long 3mm allen. If I come across the YEC clamp kit for this generation I'll snatch that up too. https://www.facebook.com/771Racing/videos/vb.565687530151081/1271116512941509/?type=3 Desperately needs a mapping now.
I'm not reading through thread to see what year R6 is on that video, but if it is an 08 plus, you have the front end to low. Melkman or RM inside can help with proper numbers, I've been away to long to remember for sure, but I think it was around 535mm center of axle to top of bottom clamp.
I've finally figured out how one of the random bits of fiberglass I got goes on to hold the ram air tubes in place and guide them into the front fairing, slick. Looking at the tail, I can see where it was bolted on via two bolts in the back and nothing else. The front ends up resting on top of the rear tank bracket, floating unsupported from the tank back to the bar the tail bolts into. I found this white piece of glass in the random bits box and boy it sure seems to want to go right where I placed it, with spots to drill right where there are holes in the subframe. With it there the front of the seat rises to the top of bracket plate on the tank, so it just alters the seat angle slightly, no massive change in height. It also supports the seat in the middle. Is my hunch right that it's supposed to go there, or is it really optional? (Or is my guess completely off and it goes somewhere else?) If I do install it, revnuts to bolt it down, and should I use a well nut to attach the seat pan to it so the seat is tied down at three points instead of two? (It rotates quite a bit front to back currently with no obvious additional tie down spots.) The other fun question of the day is throttle body sync'ing. Going by the book, Yamaha has you adjusting bleed screws to sync the throttle bodies. Given I've defeated the whole vacuum slide system with the stops my gut says close the bleeds off fully and sync the butterflies that Yamaha says to leave alone. Thoughts?
Something fundamental still isn't right with the bike, it still doesn't want to accept large throttle openings. Clean injectors, new plugs, 05 pressure regulator, PC3 is on current firmware, zero map or Graves slide stops map has no impact. Throttle is super snappy for small openings, but you give it a large hand full, even with revs built up and it just bogs out. Bah.
I would: Disconnect PC completely. TPS. Check resistance and voltage. Check for vacuum leaks on TB boots on the motor side. Check fuel pressure doesn't drop under load.
Verified behavior is the same with or without PC connected. I haven't put a meter on the TPS but using the dash diag mode I'm seeing the right values and clean sweeps from closed to open and back again. I'll check for vacuum leaks, something I haven't done yet but should have, and I can't check fuel pressure directly at the moment as I don't have a gauge or the fuel rail adapter that Yamaha wants $300 for, but I'm thinking that's gotta be where the problem lies.
I snyc the TB at about 1/3 throttle and then use the air bleeds to do a final sync at idle. Then you can adjust the idle fuel trims if you want to get perfect. Make your own YEC throttle clamp. I did, but I still just rip them out like RM. Have you tried riding it? Or are you just revving it in neutral on a stand?
Just revving on the stand sadly, no dyno, and even if I could find a place to run it locally, it was 5 degrees yesterday... bit too cold for my taste. I have access to a dyno that's about 2 hours away, before I drop it off for a week I want to be certain it's ready for mapping though.
I'm calling the PC3 junk, it randomly stops talking to my laptop until I reload the app and powercycle the PC3, that's not right. With it unplugged, pump rebuilt the bike still struggles at WFO below 8k (in Neutral, still no place to test under load) but at least now at 8k and above it'll scream if slammed. Now when it's struggling it's a struggle it'll try to pull out of as opposed to basically shutting down. I'm pretty sure part of that is the vacuum slides being held open by the stops kit? Here is the $16 shipped rebuild kit I used. Had to clean and reuse my pump foot / strainer as the generic one was NOT going back in the OEM pump housing.
Ended up chaining together an 8" and 6" 3/8" drive extension pair with a 3mm hex drive socket to get the throttle bodies off. It's not a ball end but seemed to work ok. What a pain in the butt with all the plumbing and wiring. For those thinking cam timing might be what's throwing me off, no such luck, timing marks all line up. (Once I figured out that cyl 1 was at the other end of the motor...) Clearances are all within spec save for the outboard exhaust on #1, .013in is a bit loose, otherwise all other exhaust are at .010in. Intakes have a bit more variation, from a loose .005in to a tight .007in. I was really hoping I could avoid changing shims but that outlier exhaust is going to piss me off, and if I'm in there the intakes are getting evened out and pushed to the loose end of the spec if I can.
Of course the shims I need are the ones I used up on my FZR the last time I did an adjustment, so a bunch on order to refill my kit and cover what I'm doing. I'm fairly certain the bike has never had an adjustment given the number of OEM only shims in there (189, 184, etc). That one loose exhaust worries me the more I think about it, the only ways I can come up with the clearance opening up are both bad: Valve tip hardening failing and mushrooming, valve and piston met each other and it's slightly bent. I do not have the skill set to tackle a mucked up valve/head, and I'm not 100% certain I have the tools to pull the head. Bah. I'll have to see if I can beg/borrow/steal a leak down tester while I wait for my shims to arrive and verify that cylinder is holding pressure before going full panic?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030EVL60/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Prime, One day. Never had an issue with this one. It's the one I lend out to people, it's been used and abused. Do a leak down test, you should do it anyways so you know the condition of your motor regardless of issues arising. Especially if you're going to race this thing. I'll agree that a loose exhaust shim is odd but without a proper diagnosis you're shooting in the dark.
Good find, all the lower cost ones I came across last night didn't include a 10mm plug adapter, it's on order and due to arrive Wed. I've also got a friend with a bore-scope and we're going to take a peek down through the plug hole tonight.
Got a look-see with a bore scope in #1 and #4. Holy carbon buildup Batman! #1 (Problem child) #4 No signs of recent piston to valve contact, but I don't like the way the carbon is mushed back away from the outer edge of the piston crown by the outside exhaust pocket... wonder if that's my intermittent tap I swear I'm hearing? My friend's bore scope kit also had a mirror so theoretically we could see more of the cylinder itself. possibly the head but I didn't want to risk the attachment deciding to free itself, in my motor. Should be able to do a leak down Wed.
