Sorry, I missed this. It was a SV and evidently they put Honda F2 or F3 wheels on the back, which is what we ran. I couldn't tell you what the width was, but that was the hot setup years ago. Why not use the stock R6 rotors? Those work great, at least the ones from 08+ do. I presume you are using an entire R6 front end already, so if that is the case, it works great on much faster R6's and will work fine on your FZ07.
Cool, thanks! I wasn't sure how good the stock R6 brakes are. The front end is off of a 2012. I will order up some lightly used rotors on ebey....I was hoping someone would say the stock setup is good enough. I will change the brake fluid and put some stainless lines on it. I will run the 180 rear for now...maybe I can figure something out down the road for a smaller rear wheel.
F2 wheel is 4.5" and F3 is 5". F3 was hot set up back in days when we used to run 165 slicks. Both of those wheels are boat anchors for today standards Personally I think 160 would hurt FZ handling.
Go with what Zoran says. He has forgot more about these bikes than I will ever know. Actually the boat achor part is why I was going to upgrade to the 180 setup and to get the wider wheel/tire. Having said that, the narrower wheel with the Bridgestone 165 slick worked great. Regarding front R6 brakes, they work great. Many Suzuki guys would transfer R6 stuff over to replace the OEM Suzuki stuff, Zoran makes a bunch of spacers to do just that. I think 06-07 rotors were 4.5mm thick and would sometimes warp. 08+ were 5mm think, as I recall.
I would just run oem R6 rotors and +1 to what Rob L. says about the R6 brake setup....Lots of track day guys swap R6 brake setups onto GSX-R 600/750 because the stock master sucks on a GSX-R. They are superb oem brakes
Im in no hurry with mine as its just getting cold around here, but I am building a superstock FZ07 for next year and a local Yamaha dealer is building one to Superbike spec's. The dealer will probably build more than one and they are or have become the guy for AP motoart parts out East. Barnes Brothers Cycles in Cannonsburg PA is the dealer. I pretty much have got all my parts except the bodywork (next week or so) and still need little things like ECU flash, 520 conv. and new brake lines. I went the TWF route on suspension with his fork cartridge mod and a Penske because just like Rob L said above, no need to reinvent the wheel when Zoran has proven parts all ready to go. This has been a very easy bike to race prep so far so I am looking forward to wrapping it up going into the Spring and getting out on track probably in March/April. I really need to start wiring it up but I find myself wanting to buy fasteners that are already drilled. Places like Pro bolt and other ebay sources seem to have them and once I started buying a few here and there, I almost want to see if I can get the entire bike wired without having to drill a single bolt. Not that its hard, but a challenge now to see if I can do it. Plus, I just love titanium, stainless and aluminum factory looking fasteners. The rear axle bolt might be a little hard to find or pricey, but I have the time so I will see what I can find. Does anyone know of a good source for pre-drilled nuts? Bolts are easy, but nuts are a little harder to find. I like the build sheet you have, but I don't want to know what I am spending so I refuse to do one for my bike. I am pretty much on the same track as you with a few differences that are very minor. I just got my AP rearset plates and rearsets and Wow, they are cool. I was not expecting what I got. I guess this is a constantly evolving project for AP and the parts they are making are getting more trick as the days pass.
Well, still waiting on some parts from Andy Palmer but I got it completely torn apart. Motivation is low due to cold ass temps in WI and lack of heated garage......last winter without one thank god. I can see how some would say the frame is a little weak side. The area where the swing arm and shock bolt up looks to be a little delicate. I'm sure I will crash test it a few times at some point and find out. I need the stem bearing and the shock from Andy so I can start going the other direction. It was good to take everything apart and get familiar though. The top gas tank mount was crushed....a little heat and a pry bar/giant hammer fixed it. I will need to touch up the paint. Other than that the frame is perfect and looks brand new. I am hoping to get a rolling chassis going the last week in December.....
Nice garage, insulate them walls! Watch that brake cleaner around the space heater, very flammable, don't ask how I know
yea, the brake cleaner can cover some serious distance! It's a rental....building a new house now with a 3 car heated garage....finally! It wont be done till spring though.....piss poor planing results in piss poor results ?
Still waiting on bodywork I've got plenty of time but I was hoping to wrap up this bike early and not have that last minute rush that always seems to happen. Put in the order around mid October.
Did he say why it is taking so long? I haven't ordered mine yet...now I am worried. It took a month to get the shock, link, intake and R6 rear. I would like to make it to Jennings in late Feb to test.
Not really sure why, but I have heard 2 mo. minimum wait on the bodywork from others that got them so I'm not surprised but instead just getting anxious. I just heard a few more weeks so we will see. You need to order it now if you want to run in Feb. and you're probably gonna be cutting it close but don't rely on me, give AP a call and see what he says. Maybe they make them every two months and it depends on when you order in that timeframe.
Finally got some work done. Waiting on the body work and clutch still. It sounds like I will have both next week. Hoping to make Jennings to test and tune the last week in Feb! Here are some shock pictures. The minimum shock length was 321mm (center of eye to center of eye) on the shock Andy sent me. If you run this length you will have to modify the Yoshi exhaust bracket a bit so it clears the swing arm. Make sure you order a shock 318mm or less if you don't want to grind the exhaust. Supposedly the extra ride height is well worth it. I conferred with Andy about the mounting and routing of the shock. The fitting on the top of the shock should be down. The fitting is angled for this position. If you put the fitting up you will have a hard time routing and installing the res. The fitting will also make contact with the superbike intake if it is up.
Ok. So the body mounting kit does not come with any instructions. It is not rocket science but these pics might save you some time scratching your head. Remove both electronics mounting brackets from both sides (where the rectifier and ECu mount. New brackets are supplied for this. Rectifier will mount up under the gas tank. Play around with the wires under there to eliminate binding. I would install the Power Commander before this step....it will be easier to get to all the required connectors. Time the tail section of the frame per the picture below.....it supposedly makes the tail fairing easier to take on and off. Paint the side stays...they are bare metal and will oxidize pretty quickly...I didn't have any issues but hanging them from safety wire might be better for paining....I was too lazy. The tab on the neck for cable retention needs to be cut off in order to mount front fairing stay. I cut it off and painted it flat black. I would wait as long as possible to mount the rear sets.....I have had to take them off the bike like 3 times to install various other components......its kind lame how they tie into everything. I will list a recommend order of install later on down the road.
If you need room for PC you can also move RR lower down. I made bracket for it. http://twfracing.com/vbforums/forum...iscussions/2452-yamaha-fz07?p=30385#post30385
cool looking bracket. The PC mounted up good under the seat. Did you have trouble with that? I feel like I might be missing something.