FZ-07R Superbike Build

We don't use PC.

 

R6 rear wheel kit. You get the two spacers. Big one goes on cush drive side. Andy took a little off the stock brake hanger (you have to send it in). Kit also includes a new rotor. I have broken two torx bits trying to get the old R6 rotor off....boooo. Soaking in PB buster...again

 

I made this too short I think......it works but I might run into problems when pads wear down and have to add fluid.

 

Wish I would have found your thread sooner. I looked all over and never found it. I like your solution for the chain adjusters!

 

Heat, not lube. Loctite doesn't give a shit about PB blaster but at 500°F it turns to liquid and breaks it bond. A few minutes with a heat gun or a Mapp gas torch works wonders.

 

Ok, thanks for the tip!

 

Got my bodywork last week. Super nice set and well worth the wait. Fits perfect with no trimming needed. I didn't have to cut the subframe for my seat to fit, it slid right on perfectly out of the box. Not sure why it would need to be cut but maybe it's something they fixed along the way. Anyway, you will be happy when you get it.

 

Love your build! Can't wait to see the finished bike! I have an fz07 street bike, looking at your build makes me want to do the same thing to mine lol

 

Thanks man!

Cool! Can't wait to get it...hoping early next week.

 

I am hoping one of you knows about flashing the ECU. I have the PCV all installed and got it running today...it runs and sounds awesome. I spoke with Ferrell Performance today to schedule the dyno tuning for the week of the 13th. The dyno tech mentioned that I would also need an ECU flash to delete a speed limiter and a few other things...does anyone else know of this? I guess I was thinking the PCV tuning would fix everything....guess not. Ive never has to flash the stock ECU when adding a PC/Bazzaz..


I am planning on 2 maps. A U4.4 and a premium pump. Anyone have any thoughts on this? I will probably only run u4.4 at RA......unless I get addicted. I have always been kind of anti race gas....$$$

I am planning to install the slipper clutch, change the oil, splice and solder the kickstand/clutch safety circuits closed and finish the final routing of a few wires tomorrow.....Hopefully go over all of the bolts/nuts and check torques one last time and take it for a spin. I got the bike up to temp today and the fan kicked on and no coolant leaks..radiator was tweaked a little so I was worried it might leak. I am hoping that all I will have to do after the dyno is clip on the body work and set the sag and clicker settings. Fingers crossed for Jennings!

 

The ECU regardless of whatever piggy back controller you install has limitations on certain things. The R6/R1 has throttle restrictions on the fly by wire to help pass DB requirements on intake/exhaust and helps Street squids not hurt themselves. The piggy back controllers only trick the ecu into supplying more or less fuel or change ignition timing. You have to get to the root of the issues. Piggy backs are bandaids and allow quicker adjustments but not an ideal solution.

 

Not sure of the best flashes for that bike, but I believe the Flash Tune stuff was so good, Graves started using that, vs. the YEC stuff. Tyler hasn't raced AMA since 2013, but I'm pretty sure that is what I've heard from guys still racing R6's.

 

The USA ECU is not speed or power restricted. A flash is the cleanest approach since you don't have an extra box on the bike. But the PCV will work well enough. There is one thing you can't do with a PCV, the stock ECU map has deceleration fuel turned off. That makes on/off throttle a bit jerky. I ran a PCV on my bike with a stock and built engine, no problems, it works. But then I moved most of the settings into the ECU with a flash, and I retained the PCV so I can have per gear mapping and still use my POD datalogger, yada yada. The one irritating thing about Flash Tune, you cannot turn off the O2 sensor. If you disconnect the O2 sensor, all sorts of weird things happen. Woolich, supposedly you can turn off the sensor, but I have not tried their stuff on the FZ yet. So if you use the PCV, leave the O2 sensor in place and use their "Optimizer." It works. When tuning, keep in mind that, basically, any time the ECO mode is showing on the dash, you are in closed loop and cannot tune that area.

 

Interesting, thanks for the info. The main reason i did it was to have two maps for two fuels. Maybe I should have just went with e Flash Tune and called it good.....

 

Well, I got a couple hours of work in yesterday. Clutch was super easy to install. I still need to do the front brakes. I over tightened the aftermarket banjo bolts to the OEM spec and ruined them...had to order a new set of bolts and washers. I couldn't resist firing it up and taking it for a spin down the street and back anyway. I could not really get on it too much....no front brakes! I was surprised the little motor had a fair amount of torque...I am excited to get it on the track. It sounds a lot better than I thought it would too. I need some black zip ties.....


I wonder if anyone will make an aluminum subframe kit for it. It would be a pain to install the first time but really nice to have after that.....cut off steel, weld on brackets and bolt on aluminum subframe.

 

I like that gauge relocation setup too, nice stuff.

 

The PCV will work. Neither FT ECU or the PCV are the 100% solution.

I like that airbox.

 

You probably want to replace the stock cast aluminum rearset brackets. I doubt they'll survive a tip over. I copied Zoran's design and cut some up. I think AP sells them.

 

Yea, I could see those being pretty weak. Id like to come up with a 2 piece design for the left side. It would be nice not to have to take the swing arm off to get the left plate off. I am having my brother draw up some designs in SolidWorks.

 

The size difference between the 160/60 and the 180/55 is very small, don't remember the exact measurement but I only needed a 1/2 turn in ride height adjustment when I went from the 160 to a 180 on my 400.