Electrical question. Double pole breaker.

Get a 1900 extension ring. Gives you another 1.5” of depth on the j-box.

And what rd said. Contractor saved $10-20 using aluminum instead of copper. Over a hundred units it still ain’t shit and still not worth the shoddy workmanship.

Shit like this is why I won’t do developer work.

 

Well I just checked and both are aluminum. I love doing a job twice. It’s awesome.
Plus the inside of my cook top is now spotless. LOL.

 

Both what? Cooktop and wall oven?

 

Likely you mean mixing the two materials, not the use of wirenuts. (The sentence can interpreted both ways)

That wasn't a #6, maybe I have picture scale wrong... Mindewe, I'm not sure they're still allowed to make/use aluminium wire smaller than #6 (?) and that unshielded gnd is indeed definitely Al...

 

The internal wiring of the cooktop is likely copper. You'll need two sets of taps, one for the junction box, and one for each connection to the cooktop (you said there were two?).

Other way is to change wire from Junction Box to Cooktop to copper wire to eliminate the AL-CU connection at the cooktop.

Never connect Copper to Aluminum with wire nuts. It WILL fail, overheat and possibly start a fire. It's just a matter of time.

 

Both wires that are wirenut together.

 

Wrongly interpreted perhaps.

I’d have said “neither copper nor aluminum can be connected with wirenuts” if your misinterpretation was what I meant.

Let me simplify. Dissimilar metals. No bueno.

#8 AL is still permissible. Good for 30A. See it a lot in air conditioner disconnects. Pisses me off every time I see it.

 

The wire from the cooktop to the junction box is aluminum?

 

He posted a pic earlier of the cooktop JB that appeared to have AL supply line.

AL to AL with a wirenut is also not a good thing. Always use taps.
My apt out east has AL wiring for the two general lighting circuits. I had to go through them and put in taps (used Alumicon taps) to replace all the wirenuts. Found a few with evidence of heating.

 

The premise wiring, yes. SER. I’m asking if the conductor from j-box to cooktop is AL, cuz that would be a first in my experience.

 

No, there are two conjunction boxes. The lower one where the short and resulting melted wire nut and an upper one that is directly below the cooktop. So I am now positive that the upper one does wire nut the main power feed line aluminum wire from the lower box to the copper power line to the cooktop in the upper box. :/.

 

This pic. Looks like supply line at cooktop is AL.

 

Upper box at cooktop.


Lower box

 

So I should get some connectors and reconnect the upper box connections, which I’m 99 % sure will be AL to Copper wire nuted. :/

how much money does one have to spend to get quality craftsmanship. It’s not like I live in a POS house. But maybe I do.

 

That...is shit.

What is the breaker size for the cooktop? 30A?

 

F it, I’m going to make some pop corn regardless. LOL.

 

It’s a 40 but it should be 50 correct?

 

If it were me, I’d repull the wires from the cooktop to the lower j-box in copper, get new wirenuts for the cooktop connection and Polaris taps for the undercabinet junction.

Was your house part of a development or was it a custom build? Even custom builds sometimes cut corners, but the “upsell” is more likely when you’re actually dealing with a home owner and not a builder.

 

That gas line and new gas cooktop is looking better and better.

 

Ok, if it’s a 40A that should be #6 aluminum. You’ll need #8 copper to replace it.