04 636 brake problems, only happens at the track.

Like I said. We'll get a post shortly where the problem was resolved. But if you want to know what it is, you'll have to PM him.

...Wonder if he's flushing the system right now.

 

He probably just means Motul 5.1

 

I'm running Dot 5 because I was having the brake problem with DOT 4. So I upgrade to a fluid with a higher wet boiling temp but the problem is still there.

 

NO NO NO I drained everything first and changed the pads to the HH at the same time. I used the mighty vac to add the new fluid.

 

It is 5.1. I assumed everyone would know that. But sorry if ya didn't.

 

So what type of system would require DOT 5 and not DOT 4? Just wondering seeing the cap on the brake res says use DOT 4 or higher. Being serious not trying to be a dick!

 

Rebuild!

Did you check to see if your calipers are working properly and maybe need to be rebuilt? Happens quite a bit on those Kawie's! I'll mind my own business now since it seems there is a discussion here based on the posts I am reading. Just trying to help---Big Ronny

 

Thanks man, I'll check it. Anything major I should be looking for. Besides the obvious (Pistons not moving freely).

 

Todd I found this http://www.bobbyarchermotorsports.co...f ferences%22

It explains a lot. I now see why you said that about the DOT 5. But I am using MOTUL 5.1

 

At this point, if you want any help, we need to know EXACTLY what you have done to your bike. Don't read up on it and tell us what you think we want to hear. That wont do any good. If everything was working well, then you wouldn't be asking this question. Find the bottle of brake fluid, whatever brand and whatever rating it has, and copy it here. If you don't have the bottle or if a shop put it in, look for a receipt. Next, tell us EXACTLY how you changed it. Did you try to drain it first, did you flush it until you could see new fluid coming out of the bleeder screw, or did you do something else. Did you use a vacuum, or some other type of pressure bleeder, or did you use pressure from actuating the brake lever? How did you make sure there was no air left in the lines? If you give us honest answers, you will probably get some useful help. If not, garbage in, garbage out.

 

I drained the entire system when I changed the lines and the pads. I upgraded to DOT 5.1 (bottle is downstairs) and used the mighty vac to put the fluid back in. The only time the brakes fade is on the track. I have no fade on the street.

 

That's my bet as well. Just keep bleeding them manually. Sometimes it can be a pain to get all the air out if the system has been totally drained.

 

Dunno, but whenever I've had air in the lines, I have a mushy lever all the time. It doesn't come and go.

Fade (to me anyway) means you have good brakes and firm lever and then one or the other goes away with use.

The good brakes going away can be cured by not running your pads too thin.
The good firm lever going away can be cured by eliminating moisture in the system, using a good quality fluid, and making absolutely sure you don't have a coned rotor getting worse with use.

I've had all of the above happen to me at one time or another, and that's how I resolved it each time, depending on the problem.

 

Why do you consider this an "upgrade?" DOT 5.1 won't give you any advantage over DOT 4. A high-quality DOT 4 is a better choice. DOT 5.1 was created specifically for ABS brake systems. The '04 636 does not have an ABS brake system.

 

Ok everyone I'll try bleeding them agianwon't know if it works until I go to the track.

5.1 has a higher boiling temp, so it would be better for track use.

 

Yes, DOT 5.1 usually has a higher boiling point than off-the-shelf DOT 4, but why does this lead you to the conclusion that DOT 5.1 would be better for track use? You are making an assumption based on a single data point. There are other factors consider.

One of those factors is that DOT 5.1 has substantially lower viscosity than DOT 4. Lower viscosity means less effective brakes at high operating temperatures.

 

Bleed them manually. Bleed at the master cylinder too.