04 636 brake problems, only happens at the track.

Oh, but before I leave your e-life. Could you fix one thing for me? Your sig. How you stopped listening to the GSB'ers? That's not true. Tell the rest of the class the real reason you stopped listening to us. You know, the part where you were banned.

Anyhow, best of luck to you.

 

It's not magic, I talked to a couple guys that know how to ride and know the track. I followed there advice and am now running 2:18's around an active formula one track. My lines are still not perfect but I'm getting there.

As far as the original subject is concerned I said "CAN the calipers be warped?" Key word is CAN. It was a simple question? Have you not had a prior problem with me you would have seen this. And you are one to talk about "ignorance is bliss"! Last I remember you were still saying my bikes problem was the side stand switch.

And as far as GSB goes. Ya I was banned. I was banned by a group of guys that was wrong about my bike problem. Why does GSB have only 2700 members and the rest of the bike forums have 10's of thousands? It's because if you don't know anyone directly you are an out cast from the start. This is why GSB is the laughing stock of motorcycle forums. But hey if you ever want to ride just let me know. Maybe you can teach me how to fix my bike .

 

Ummm, because its GEORGIA Sportbike. Not many people from out of state. Its not American Sportbike, or National Sportbike, its Georgia Sportbike. And the laughing stock of other motorcycle forums? Ummmm, okay, whatever helps you sleep better at night. :crackhead:

 

So I guess only 2700 people ride in GA! :crackhead:

 

Keep reaching. Didn't know it was a requiremet for riders to joing forums.

 

Exactly, it's not a requirement. But you'd think a good 75% of the riders in the state that the forum specific caters to would join. Oh wait they probably did join but then they got tired of the "Hey what are you doing for dinner tonight" or the "Man my day at work was so hard" threads that flood that site. Or the GSB mods didn't like the fact that the new member new more about bikes then them or could ride better so the booted them.

Face it, that site is a joke, it has always been a joke and it will always be a joke. If you want to go for a ride great if not great as well.

 

ok thats seriously some funny shit.. :up:

 

[Disclaimer] As with any internet advise, I cannot see, hear, smell, touch, or taste your bike, and I am not gettin paid for my services. I only know the information about your bike from the sentence or two that you wrote. If you take your bike to a mechanic and he disagrees with me, I'm not going to care or hold a lifetime grudge against you. It's not my money I am spending to fix your bike, and I don't make or lose any money for the successful diagnosis of your problem. [/Disclaimer]

To answer your question, brake fade is usually a heat issue. It means your brakes are operating at a temperature higher than they are meant to operate. The first thing that usually happens is that you boil the brake fluid or you exceed the temperature range of the friction materials. If the former happens, the lever will feel soft. If the latter happens, the lever will feel firm, but you will still have no brakes. Since you say your lever is getting soft, I will bet it's the fluid. I hope you were joking when you asked about warped calipers. The first solution would be to use a high temperature brake fluid such as Castrol SRF or Motul RBF. However, the fluid should be changed fairly regularly since it absorbs water. If that's not the problem, check that your brakes aren't dragging and building up heat. Another option would be to stop using the brakes so much. A 2:18 around what I assume is the Hockenheimring (or any other F1 track in Germany) isn't that fast. Bragging about that is like bragging about a 2:10 at Road Atlanta on a supersport 600. There's a lot more to going fast than getting the "lines" right. I doubt Todd or anyone else is jealous of your bike knowledge, otherwise you wouldn't have had to post asking about how to get rid of your brake fade. You asked a question on GSB, and it was answered. You didn't like that answer, became a nuisance, and got banned.

 

Thanks for the advise. I will change the fluid and check to make sure they are not dragging.

As far as GSB goes, I asked a question and got an answer. The answer I got was "Side stand problem". After that was ruled out I moved on yet members kept insisting the side stand issue. After the bike was fixed I was called a lier and then accused of making the entire story up. This is why I got mad and this is why I was banned. No other reason. And the fact that proves this point is that there are still GSB members caught up on the issues. There are still GSB members that think my problem was the side stand switch. This is almost a year later. Give me a brake. You and I both know there are some GSB members that can't stand being wrong and when they are wrong they start with the personal attacks.

Oh and RA is 2.4 miles that is if they are running the full course and not cutting out the turns 6, 7, and 8 loop. Hockenhiem is 3 miles. My lap time is 2:18. Formula one poll time is 1:22 and the lap record is 1:13. The lap record for RA is 1:24 set by Duhamel. So I would say that I'm not doing that bad. Seeing I'm running pump fuel and street tires! I'm not saying I'm the fastest guy out there, but I sure as hell am not the slowest.

But thanks for the info, and I'll check what you said.

 

Actually, everything I've looked at shows Hockenheim as 2.85 miles and Road Atlanta as 2.54 miles.

 

It's like a train wreck. I just can't look away.








Oh yeah. I've got $100 on Todd C. if he wants to race.

 

Sorry it was in meters (4574) and 5000 meters is 3.1 miles. So running 2:18 on street tires on a 2.85 mile track is not that bad.

 

I got $100 that says I'll wipe the track with your ass if you want to race. Oh wait, have you ever been to the track, do you even own a bike? :crackhead:

 

*edited* Had a long winded responce, but there's no point in it. It's more fun to bait you.

To answer your questions Marsolass.

1. You stated you were faster than the GSB staff. I asked to see a race between an Admin and you. It's not that hard to comprehend. It was aimed at the fact you bolstered how much faster you are than a GSB staff. Pay for me a track day, I'll get out and play though.

2. I've done about 12-13 track days. Yes, less than you. (Knew you'd have to get that in) But if there were such things as $35 track days I'd have a couple thousand. At my current rate I ride about 25-28K miles a year street.

3. I own 8 complete motorcycles and 3 rollers. (tons of parts as well)

back to my bench.

 

Might as well go ahead and write your check to Drew now, then, or would you rather pay in cash?

 

So when did I say I was faster then a GSB staffer? Maybe it was when I was having that side stand problem . But it doesn't matter. I know that 99% of the GSB track rides would be faster then me around RA. Just like I would be faster then 99% of the GSBer's at Hockenhiem. But I don't care, you think you are baiting me. Why to keep defending your GSBer's, it's funny you don't bring up the side stand anymore. Could I have struck a nerve or maybe I'm just . Oh and why don't you sell some of those bikes you say you have and invest in some track days, that way you can't use cost as an excuse for being slow! But speaking of slow what are your times around RA?

 

You really are clueless.

From the horses mouth.

Why would I want to sell bikes? I have too much fun riding all the different flavors I have.

What about the sidestand? You gave us X diagnostic. We gave Z answer. You proceeded to Y course. That's what's so funny. So what was the answer? I know you had to get a "german" ECU or some other crap.

You've got a long way to go to strike a nerve. I've been laughing my ass off at the return of such a great internet troll.

Hey guys, should I invite marsolass over to "the other board"? I wonder how much real abuse he'd take.

 

Now THAT would be entertaining. :up:

 

Make sure you read everything!

Umm I was told by a GSB member that it sounded like a bad ECU so I ordered one directly from Kawasaki. It was $800 and covered by the my extend warrenty.

But never the less. The problem wasn't the sidestand.

But seeing we going back to GSB and looking up what was said let's see all the things the knowledable GSB members said was wrong with my bike.

1) Originally Posted by BLOKE...
sum clutches dont like ffully synthetic mate and once it starts slippin the shavins have to go sumwhere!

2) Originally Posted by Aaron...
That's not a clutch problem.... sounds like fuel/spark...

3) Originally Posted by BLOKE...
you need to check the onnectors to the pc3 first or try running it without the pc3 before you go messin with everything else!

4) Originally Posted by BLOKE...
think about wot its doin, it revs ok in nuteral but not in gear with the clutch in right? so theres wires to the clutch lever to stop you startin it in gear with clutch out, check that area out first, then anything to do with the nuteral switch and sidestand cut out,thats where id start and work my way back

5) Originally Posted by 954RRider
isn't it possible to narrow out the PC3 by just unplugging it completely and letting the computer run the stock map?

6) Originally Posted by jeech
have you checked the vertical stratonizor on the auto-sensing cam chain tensioner? I bet that's what it is.

7) Originally Posted by canyondancer
Mike....if in fact the bike revs to redline in neutral......then fool the ECU into thinking the bike is in neutrall ALL THE TIME. Bypass the neutral switch to make it stay ON all the time. If the bike runs right in all the gears....then you have masterfullly figured out that it's either the neutral switch or the ECU that is faulty.

8) Originally Posted by Carbon Can Kat
Mike, three words...CAM CHAIN TENSIONER
When you rev it in neutral there is no load on the motor. When you put it gear you place a load on the motor and the tensioner engages. When this happened to my bike it was actually a tooth that had broken on the gear the chain runs across.

9)Originally Posted by Ignition_Key
Have you checked the ECU?
Most probably your ECU is messed up, as its the brain of the bike, controlling the RPM's Gas, air blah blah blah...........Also chk the fuses on your bike too...

OR

as Caron Can Kat said : Cam Chain Tensioner...
KAWASAKIS are Notorious for having bad tensioners and most guys put Aftermarket Cam Tensioners on them....

10) Originally Posted by Wallypiper
Regulator/recitfier?
I don't know if this really fits the symptoms but the RRs used in motorcycles are vulnerable to heat problems which could explain the problem only starting after the bike has been running a while. Sorry the ECU didn't fix it. That was an expensive guess.

11) Originally Posted by ianjoub
change the plugs (not check), then put a jumper over the side stand safety switch and the tip over switch, then check to see that the fuel tank vents are not clogged. before that, start the bike, put it in gear and rev it .... make it run full throttle/cutting out for a minute or so..... then wet your fingers and touch each of the header pipes one by one....see if they are all the same temp or if 1 or 2 are cooler than the others..... if they are all the same, it is not a plug/wire/fuel problem.... it will be an electrical problem that is affecting ALL the cylinders equally

12) Originally Posted by canyondancer
And look at the porcelin on the spark plugs real close for cracks too. Change the damn plugs anyway....they are cheap enough.
PS......i told him to jump the sidestand switch a month ago and he won't do it. He says it runs perfect with the side stand down...but when he rides it....it goes haywire and won't run right. I'll bet it's nothing more than a faulty neutral switch...or a faulty sidestand switch.

And here is where everyone in GSB got pissed!

Quote:
Originally Posted by canyondancer
Bullshit....you just said two posts ago that you cannot get a fault code on your bike. Something about European ECU's being different than American ECU'S.

And by the way...you can't check wireing by looking at it.

For the last time.....bypass the kickstand switch. If you don't know how to do that ask somebody that you havn't already annoyed to the point of suicide.

We're trying to help you but you aren't listening. Thats why we are getting annoyed.

OK first. You need to read and understand before you comment. I said that the Kawasaki shop over here couldn’t TEST the ECU because there system tests for EURO SPEC and the emission controls are different then US spec ECU’s.

Second, I tried to put the bike in dealer service mode by grounding the service wire for two seconds or tapping it five times in less then 2 seconds then grounding it out for more then 2 seconds. This is how you put the bike in dealer service mode 1 or 2, per the service manual (which I had my nose stuck in for three hours last night). This is the way you get your FI light to flash the code. Then you go to the chart and find out what the fault is. If the FI light doesn't flash then there is no fault stored in the ECU. Now that you totally understand what I'm saying "after braking it down to a fourth grade level" you know that the side stand switch and neutral switch are fine seeing no fault code for those came up. The only things that do not store a fault code in the ECU are the same things I listed above, mostly involving the fuel system. So I don’t know what your hang up is about the side stand or neutral switch but it’s NOT IT! In order to bypass the side stand switch I just have to unplug it. Per the mechanic at MMI in Florida.

Third, if you read my post you would see that I checked the wires that did not need to be checked with a VOLTMETER. And yes you can check wires by looking at them. That is if your looking for corrosion cuts or burns. It's called a visual inspection per the service manual once again.

So canyondancer I understand you’re trying to help, I understand that you know what you’re talking about. I understand that you are starting to have anger management issues. But give me a brake, I’m not in the states. I wish I could just bring the bike to the shop but I can’t. The bike sat in a shop for almost a month collecting dust because they could not see what was wrong with it. I have no choice but to ask questions every time I here something new. Every time I look in the manual I see something else it could be, so I ask questions. I’m willing to bet this is the first time a member of GSB has had a problem like this, meaning being stationed overseas.

So once again Tracy you have no clue what you are talking about. I never ordered a Euro spec ECU. I ordered a US spec ECU direct from Kawasaki in ATL!

But lets see the suggestions continue!

13) Originally Posted by canyondancer
marsolais....thanks for all the name calling. Real nice. Now let me tell you what my wheelchair manual says.

Check the plugs. Did you actually remove the spark plugs and look at them? What color were they? What was was the gap when you checked it?

2. I don't give a **** what your manual says....did you EVER bypass the sidestand switch ......and the neutral switch? Explain in detail how you did it.

So I think that is three times the sidestand switch was suggested after it was ruled out!

But I posted this shortly there after.

Originally Posted by Marsolais
OK heads up. I dropped the bike off at another shop. One of the guys took it out. When he came back he said he thinks it is the side stand switch as well. When I told him that I tried the bypass it but the problem was still there. They told me they would check the bike out.

So this is the deal, if it is the side stand I will change my title to I'M CANYONDANCERS BITCH FOREVER! Or something else of his choice. On a further not I was told that if the ECU didn't go into service moe then there is no fault code and the side stand going bad would show a code.

Further more. I finish my school today with a GPA of 95. So alot of stress has been lifted off me.

If I pissed anyone off, my bad. I'll be buying alot of beer for people I have never met when I get back to GA.

14) Originally Posted by canyondancer
masolais....i can't be certain what the problem is.....but there are just certain things you must check out in the process of trying to fix it. Those two switches are common to the syptoms you provided. If it isn't the switch...there are other things to check next. The shop you took it to should have a multimeter and other special tools needed for a PROPER diagnosis. We are trying to help you. Be patient Glasshopper.

Thats 4 for the side stand switch!

Then the bike got fixed and I didn't post what was wrong with it. Then I got this.

 

Continued

Originally Posted by canyondancer
I call bullshit marsolais! After all the time you made us waste talking about your bike problems.....i find out that you are a fooking LIAR. YOU said...go and check the other Forums for your post saying what the problem REALLY was.....SO I DID. Guess what i find? this>

Sorry for the confusion, but the side stand switch is not operational. Meaning the little lever that turns the switch when the stand goes down has been taken off. I got sick on my buddies flippen my stand down at stop lights and killing the bike. Now if I manualy turn the little screw the bike will cut out. But even it it was the side stand switch it wuld not be happening at only 9k rpms.

You posted this on Sportbike.com How come you never told us that you butched up the sidestand switch you fooking DIMWIT? And on top of that...those folks on Sportbike.com told you the same thing as we did.....and you lied to all of them too....telling them that you bypassed the sidestand switch...and you never did.

Todd...don't delete this. Delete HIM.


Then a GSB member found what was wrong with my bike from a differant site and posted it on GSB.

Originally Posted by 04ZX6RMike
The power commander had lost its map at one point in time. This intern caused a couple things to happen.

1) Rev limiter was all screwed up.
2) Then the secondary throttle servo messed up.

The reason why no FI code was being shown was because it would only fault when it would hit 9k RPMs. Once the bike would hit 9k rpms the rev limiter would kick on for a split second and the secondary throttle servo would reset making the bike get back into it. This was the whiplash thing the bike was doing.

Now how it was fixed. Everything was taken off. The shop swapped everything electrical on my bike out with the same ZX-6R that I was thinking of picking up. All of my bikes electrical stuff was put on the other bike and was tested and dyno’d. I don’t know what they used to see when the rev limiter kicked in but once they found that it was messing up the reset it. They then found that the bike wouldn’t rev past 9k still. So they checked the throttle servo and found that that mess messed up. They did something or replaced it and the bike ran fine.

I’m sure there is a lot more to it then just that but I had my wife translating and something’s just can’t be put into English the right way.

After that I was still hated and called a lier by members like Todd and you Tracy. Canyondancer posted this which I find amazing!

Originally Posted by canyondancer
DAN....That i did not find.....and if that was the problem.....good...and i';m glad they fixed it. What i find is hard to swallow is why masolais would say that we would call the "fix" bullshit? AND why did he lie about the sidestand switch? By his own account....they switched the ENTIRE electrical system...and that means they swapped the sidetand switch too....with one that wasn't butched up. I hate to be lied to.

Says alot for the GSB community!

So with that being said I'm done with this!