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Trailer Organization Ideas

Discussion in 'General' started by fonz82, Mar 13, 2010.

  1. SPL170db

    SPL170db Trackday winner

    Is it sad that I get almost as much of a rise out of well organized and setup trailer as unobtainium bike porn on a Superbike????



    I don't think so :)
     
  2. rabbit73

    rabbit73 Scheiße

    You've been hanging around Broome too long.
     
  3. sbhockey

    sbhockey Orange shirt #157

    Naw, a well set up trailer is pretty sweet. I may be slow, but at least my pit will look good :D

    Should have never sold my old enclosed trailer from when I was racing MX.
     
  4. Mongo

    Mongo Administrator


    Why put them in? Eye bolts are only good for stubbing toes if you don't need them for a specific item you're tying down.

    Put in e-track along the sides and maybe down the center then you'll have all the options you could ever need, drop in a d-ring connector as needed and yank it when you don't.
     
  5. Razr

    Razr Well-Known Member

    Yep....and loading/sliding anything around is a real pain:down:
     
  6. xrated

    xrated Well-Known Member

    Don't know if this will help anyone out there trying to decide what to do with their trailer, but here are some shots of mine and what works for me. First one is the outside of the trailer.....it's a 7' x 16' tandem axle with electric brakes and I've added a roll up awning.

    [​IMG]

    Here are the interior shots. I still use the Baxley wheel chocks as I bought them before the Pit Bull trailer restraints came out I think. If you notice, I only have one interior light inside, a fluorescent fixture, but, it is a two bulb, T5 fixture that is approx. 48" long but.......each bulb is 54Watt so it makes a lot of light inside. I also mounted it crossways in the trailer instead of running the length of the trailer and it actually lights the inside a lot better in that position. A 14 gal. fuel cell that is gravity fed can be hoisted up in the air with a small 4 pulley rope hoist and then lowered back down to the floor and secured when transporting. I just bought an A/C unit to install when I get released from the doctor for a double hernia surgery that I just had a couple of weeks ago.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    If you have any specific questions about the setup, PM me and I'll try to answer them.
     
  7. noobinacan

    noobinacan Well-Known Member

    awesome idea
    Anyone know where I can find threaded 1-1/4" T-section ?
    I could only find slip joint at Lowes...thanks
     
  8. tropicoz

    tropicoz Well-Known Member

    I found mine across the street at the Depot.
     
  9. GM GIXXER

    GM GIXXER Well-Known Member

    XRATED, Nice set up on the trailer, my dream set up... Good luck with recovery!
     
  10. Havoc

    Havoc Well-Known Member

    here's a few of mine..
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  11. xrated

    xrated Well-Known Member

    Thanks, it has been a work in progress. I finally got the A/C on top and wired up this past week. I'll be testing at Barber in a week or so.
     
  12. Waldo

    Waldo Well-Known Member

    What size is your trailer?
     
  13. CNI Dawg

    CNI Dawg Well-Known Member

    Where did you get the roll up awning ?

    How do you secure the legs in windy situations?
     
  14. steve802cc

    steve802cc Well-Known Member

    I asked him the same thing.
    The brand is "Carefree of Colorado"

    Not sure how he secures the legs but it can't be that hard.
     
  15. Mongo

    Mongo Administrator

    Depending on the surface you can stake them to the ground. They normally have brackets to secure them to the trailer too if it's like a normal rv awning, you can leave the bottoms in the brackets and when things are tight it makes a nice strong triangle. Or as the pic shows, pull them out and stake to the ground to make it easier to move around.
     
  16. xrated

    xrated Well-Known Member

    I bought 2 empty paint cans from Home Depot and filled them with ready-mix concrete. I placed a 3/8" eye bolt in the top of the concrete with a nut and washer on the end of it so that it couldn't possibly pull out. I then use a motorcycle tie down strap to hook to the weighted can and attach the other end to the awning frame right at the location where the legs are. This will work in most situations, but if a thunderstorm rolls in, I don't take a chance with it, and I roll up the awning before the wind picks up too bad. Once you fold up the legs into the end of the awning, you can roll it up in about 10 seconds. If you are extremely lazy and want to spend the extra money, you can get a motor drive for the awning too. I didn't think that it was worth the money for that, so mine is a manual crank. A word to the wise though, if you buy something like this, make sure that you either have your side door of the trailer secured all the way open before cranking it up or down, OR make sure that the side door is completely closed. Most trailer doors will have a sharp edge on the top of the door and it will cut through the awning material in a heartbeat. Another option is to install a roller on the top of the trailer door. They sell these at camping trailer stores and run about 3 or 4 bucks.
     
  17. nikk777

    nikk777 Well-Known Member

  18. xrated

    xrated Well-Known Member

    Trailer weight really isn't an issue for me. 2011 Ford F250 with the new 6.7 Turbo Diesel..............400 HP.........800 ft lbs of torque.......pulling a 7' x 16' tandem axle trailer! :beer:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2012
  19. Havoc

    Havoc Well-Known Member


    Damm..Excuse the late response,Its a Rance aluminum 7X14 With 3ft Vose total 17 ft.
     
  20. Waldo

    Waldo Well-Known Member

    What vehicle are you using to pull it with?
     

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