Class C RV's

Discussion in 'General' started by JTRC51, Jul 9, 2019.

  1. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    Not sure if this is the right spot for this post (I apologize in advance if not). But I am seriously considering a Class C RV for multiple duty (track and travel with family). Ford V10 seems to be the majority of what I see with these. I plan to buy used due to cost but also want to have something that I know will give little issues. What brands, types, etc. are better and is there anything I should look for when buying used (service history, repairs, damage, etc.)?

    I see brands from Winnebago, Forest River, Itasca, etc. So many to choose from.

    My budget is approx $25K and I have seen a few interesting ones for that range.

    Thanks in advance!
     
    Last edited: Jul 9, 2019
  2. bwhip

    bwhip latebraker.com

    Avoid anything with a 6.0 Ford Diesel. Like the plague.
     
    JTRC51 likes this.
  3. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    Looking at Gas V10 right now. Not familiar enough with Diesel engines.
     
  4. ChemGuy

    ChemGuy Harden The F%@# Up!

    Stay away from any built around '09-'10..thats when the economy crashed...quality was suspect. Also probably outside your price range but Thor was having some quality issues with class C's in late 2017 into 2018.

    Mechanical stuff is all the usual, motor, trans, tires, etc.

    Look for delams on the walls, soft spots in floors, check roof for cracks in sealant and how good the membrane is. make sure its not worn, scratched, etc. Check windows and doors for sealant cracking.

    If you find a unit you are really are interested in look onlline for reviews on that exact model and year range. Dont go by all brand X suck and all brand Y are great. These models are built in many different factories and the labor/management involved have a big impact on quality.
     
    ducnut and JTRC51 like this.
  5. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    Awesome, Thank you! Yes, budget is keeping me in the 2005 year range or under.
     
  6. ChemGuy

    ChemGuy Harden The F%@# Up!

    A good dealer several people have recommended is https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/

    they seem to have better pricing than many local places.
     
    JTRC51 likes this.
  7. ryoung57

    ryoung57 Off his meds

    Almost all of those things are Ford V-10s. Unless you’re really burning up the road, gas is the way to go with these things. Cheaper to buy, cheaper to maintain.
     
    JTRC51 likes this.
  8. jksoft

    jksoft Well-Known Member

    My Class A has a Ford Triton V-10. Gas guzzler which is a no brainer, but a pretty reliable engine. It would probably be a better fit in a class C as it does seem to be a little over matched sometimes with our heavy beast.

    We were originally looking at class C's, but we weren't able to find one with a comfortable driver's seat. I'm a big guy and it felt like I was getting in and out of a fighter cockpit on all of the ones we tested out.
     
    JTRC51 and ducnut like this.
  9. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    I just sold my ‘17 Thor Four Winds 24F.

    Any of them better than the others? Not really. They all claim to be the best, but, they’re all built mostly from the same bits up around Elkhart, IN, and as fast they can get them out the door. Even the high quality brands like Luxury, Tiffin, Blue Bird, etc. have their weaknesses.

    After having a full-wall slide, I’d never own anything with a slide, again. They’re a massive air leak, a lot of weight, and additional complexity.

    Be sure and get on the roof and inspect, test all the systems, check the production dates on the tires, take your time.

    Most chassis franchises won’t service the chassis because it’s an RV and certainly will not touch the coach. And, most RV dealers won’t touch the chassis. If you were looking at a Class B, you might find a dealer to do your oil changes and such. I was lucky enough to be fairly close to a Ford dealer who used to be a Ford/Sterling commercial dealer who’ve created an RV niche. They’ll even service Onan generators.

    From the new stuff built on GM and Ford, the consensus is the Ford chassis/drivetrain is more pleasant to drive. If you can get by in the ~25’ range, a Class C is perfect. Anything larger on that chassis is likely going to be overloaded, once packed up. If you feel something in the ~30’+ range is more suitable, just get a Class A. They’re built on a commercial-style chassis, with heavier suspension, wheels, brakes, etc.

    Take your time and diligently search FB Marketplace and CL. There are tons of low-mileage and inexpensive units arounds.

    There’s a former RV dealership owner here on the page who’ll hopefully chime in.
     
    kirk erlinger, CRA_Fizzer and JTRC51 like this.
  10. Kurlon

    Kurlon Well-Known Member

    When inspecting in person, look closely at the walls and ceiling as they can show signs of leaks that the owner may not have noticed yet:
    - Slight bubbling of the wall paper/covering
    - Staples/screw heads that have rusted and are now visible

    Also lift any mattresses / pads / etc to inspect underneath for signs of moisture issues. The cabover area in particular is a frequent leak location due to the large number of external seams and penetrations for marker lights / windows / etc.

    Check the tires for their DOT codes even if they look good, figure on replacing if at or nearing the seven year old mark. (I'll be putting new fronts on mine this month at a minimum, thinking Hercules Terra Trac CH4 as they are rated for a good 500lb more per tire at 80psi than the BF Goodrich Commercial TAs I have now.)
     
    TurboBlew, JTRC51 and ducnut like this.
  11. jksoft

    jksoft Well-Known Member

    This is one where we have had the opposite experience. We would never own one without a slide again. You wouldn't think 3 or 4 feet would make a big difference, but it does. We haven't had any leaking issues, air or water, with the slide. Only problem we had was the motor burning out but it was 10 years old.

    Can't stress this enough. There are a lot of things to check out but take the time to do it. If its summer, make sure you check the heat and if it's winter, make sure you check the A/C, both chassis and coach. This is one that bit us as we bought it in the dead of winter and then found that the chassis A/C didn't work. If buying at a dealer, make them fix as much as you can before signing on the dotted line. If it is mostly labor for them, they'll be more inclined to do what it takes to make the deal.

    It took a while but we finally found an independent shop about 30 minutes away that does good work and will actually work on both the coach and chassis. I tend to do what I can myself though which comes in handy when you are on the road and have an issue; you'll have some idea where things are and how to fix it.
     
    JTRC51 and ducnut like this.
  12. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    Bridgestone have released a couple Duravis commercial tires in 225/75-16 and are worth looking at.
     
  13. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    Any particular reason why you want a "C" vs an "A"?
    Even with slides I havent really seen a "C" with a comfortable restroom.

    The biggest thing is going to be GVCW. Many of them are on the heavy side and the cabs are really uncomfortable to fit into if you're over 5'.
    Gas mileage is going to be the same as an A.
     
    jksoft and ducnut like this.
  14. ducnut

    ducnut Well-Known Member

    I 100% agree on space. I cross-shopped (literally, units sitting side-by-side) a non-slide versus the full-wall slide I purchased. The additional space afforded by the slide made it a no-brainer. However, I was living in mine and come winter, I quickly found the air leaks. The draft along the bottom of the slide and coach floor was terrible. In the summer, it wasn’t nearly as noticeable.

    I looked at a short, non-slide Class A, but, felt like I was sitting in a bus. Given I drive for a living, I just didn’t want to feel like I was in another commercial vehicle. However, it had far more room than the non-slide Class C I was looking at. The extra inches in width and few extra feet length made it feel much larger than it was. Plus, it was way easier to get in and out of the driver’s seat.
     
    TurboBlew likes this.
  15. JTRC51

    JTRC51 El Speedy Gonzalez

    Class C mostly because of size. I don't plan to go larger than 25ft. We travel with children and right now our minivan is beginning to get tight (especially when we add the dog), there are 6 of us total (7 with the dog) so I feel something on the small side (class C) would work best for weight, size, maneuverability, parking, etc. It would be towing a small 5x8.5 enclosed trailer with my bikes in it when at the track. When traveling, we likely wouldn't tow anything (maybe a scooter/kids bikes).

    As far as a restroom, I made it a point to say that NO #2 will be happening in that restroom :) I hope to buy one that hasn't had anyone pooping in it either..lol

    Something along the lines of this would be ideal!
    class c rv.jpg
     
  16. zertrider

    zertrider Waiting for snow. Or sun.

    Passengers will appreciate the visibility out of a class A vs class C. Try to find either a TPO roof or fibreglass over EPDM. As previously said look closely at all walls inside and out for signs of water, as well as ceiling and roof. Personally I would steer clear of Thor and Forest River if a slide is involved. Winnebago/Itasca are the same thing and decent quality.
     
    JTRC51 and TurboBlew like this.
  17. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/used-rvs-for-sale/class-a/2000-winnebago-brave_rv-42434

    I was just perusing. Size wise... the A isnt all that much bigger than a C.
    The chassis & maintenance is about the same, C or A.
    Parking... shouldnt really be a consideration unless youre going into a covered space.

    The private bath is the #1 reason to RV. Then the bed/couch, place to chill during the day.
    Most experienced RV'ers will tell you find a floor plan you will be happy with. If there are slides... make sure you
    check the floor plan with the slide in. :D
     
    jksoft likes this.
  18. ryoung57

    ryoung57 Off his meds

    The ones based on the E-Series Fords will drive like shit from the factory but with some minor mods and proper alignment specs they’ll track like a passenger car.
     
  19. Lawdog78

    Lawdog78 Well-Known Member

    That cap over the cab is a significant source of leaks if that wasn't said already. We bought a brand new one around 2011 and within 6 months has visible mold under the mattress behind that cap. Seems like they are all built pretty cheap. We had a "B+" and it drove much better than our 2 C's we had but if you are looking for a family that's probably not an option. The v10 makes good power but it's still a turd to get that big heavy house on wheels rolling. I was really surprised how slow it felt when I first drove one. Check and make sure all the appliances work! Both on electric or gas if it has the option. Check the tires too just like you would on any trailer or bike or anything else. Some people treat them just like it's a rental that requires no maintenance and some treat it like a collector's item kept in a climate controlled garage and just rubbed with a diaper. I"d try to find one of the latter if possible
     
    TurboBlew, ducnut and JTRC51 like this.
  20. assjuice cyrus

    assjuice cyrus Well-Known Member

    While trying not to risk a thread high Jack. What are the opinions on a motorhome vs good truck and toy hauler? I dont mean 1500 and a 18ft toy hauler. But a diesel and 30 or bigger separate garage toy hauler? Which would you prefer.
     

Share This Page