I heat my home exclusively with wood and I live in the northeast. Good information from everyone so far... Put the wood on a pallet off the ground. The Fiskers mauls work well - you don't look like you have too much to split so I would go this route. The ease of it really depends on the amount of knots in the wood, the length of the wood (yours looks short so easier), and the guy swinging the maul. Husqvarna makes great saws too, I have used them for decades, don't rule these out. If you are going to cut much get the "XP" versions which are the professional line. I have two currently and their 372XP is a ripper, power to weight ratio would be hard to beat by anyone. Much of cutting with a chainsaw really comes down to how sharp the chain is. If you do a bad job sharpening it won't work well - there is an art to sharpening. After all of these years I still kind of suck at it but some people do it very well and it makes it so much easier. Cover for sure, I use roofing tin to allow for airflow through the sides to dry.
I use this in the 36" length. It splits fantastically. I have used it on green Maple rounds of up to 30" diameter 18" in length with no issues. The 30"ers take some work but I get em' done. (keep in mind my 6'6" 295lbs size) I prefer it over my splitting maul. The key is axe speed. The faster you swing it the better it works. At the end of a pile I am less fatigued as well as this is much lighter than my maul. The 36" will give you faster axe head speed than the short version.
For stacking long term, I have 5 of these in my backyard... simple and cheap (well, used to be cheap). Double-check the ties for straightness when purchasing. I also stood mine up for strength, and put a couple long deck screws through the tie into the 2x4 legs for stability. (I have 3 kids running around)
Is that camphor? (Looks like camphor.) If you don't know, does it smell very aromatic and menthol/solvent-like with a bit of medicinal quality. If it is, that stuff burns muy rapido. It also splits very easily if cured.
This thread should be titled " How to spend way more time and money on a few chunks of wood than they're worth". Typical Beeb advice thread, though. Overdo it or don't do it at all.
it's very hard to get fire wood out here. every where is sold out. and usually a set of fire wood ithey sell at HD or 7-11 is like $9 . I definitely have more than $100 worth of wood there.
Forgot to mention the compact tractor/loader to transport the wood from the side of the house, to the back for splitting, then back to the side again for stacking. Perhaps even a hydraulic splitter hung off the 3pt and run off aux Seems to be a common sight around here on all the 1.5-2 acre "country" properties around me. As soon as the city people move in they get a little John fawn TLB for all their yardly chores. Can barely turn the thing around in the back yard after they put the fences up.
Hopefully it'll hold off until right about the time I decide to retire and move to a lake somewhere. . I just need 15-20 more years. We're pretty sheltered by the green belt from development, so we're good there. But all it takes is some deep pockets to get around that. Most of the new transplants around here seem to be good folk. End up getting sxs and dirt bikes for the kids soon after moving. We're attracting the right kind of city folk I guess. The lack of highspeed internet seems to be doing the trick of holding them off for now lol.
As Evad101 said, use the 36"...it's the X27. And as everyone else seems to have said, stored off the ground, covered and away from the house. It doesn't have to be against the back fence, a car width away from structures is good, especially if lifted higher than a pallet...like on a platform of milkcrates. When it comes to splitting technique(s), we're here to answer that/those question(s), too.
No gawd damn it! Never concede! The normal beeb response is that, [fill in the blank] was not enough, too easy or, you get the idea.