$19 per, $12 shipping (unless ups charges more). please send the form from our site in the box with the injectors. call/text if you have any questions. if i don't answer, i'm on a dirt bike, but WILL call back same day. pm is fine, but i only am on here when at my laptop.
link is in my signature but here ya go , the form.. http://www.proflowtech.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Service-Request-Form.pdf
This is new to me so just so I'm clear, I send you my injectors and you test them to see how they flow and you'll let me know if any of them need to be replaced correct ?
we flow test them as they arrive in a couple diffrent modes (low to high rpm, and high steady rpm), right off your bike. check resistances, leak test, inspect spray patterns.. then ultrasonically clean while being fired at various rpm, and back flush periodically. then re-flow test,inspect spray, leak test, etc. Any differences are noted on the form that we send back with the injectors. it's very rare an injector is actually bad and needs replaced. just shoot me a pm if ya have other questions..
So, I'm into this R6 Clutch job, and I have the new clutch parts but they are only separated by part number, no painted marks or anything. I decide to google the order of the clutch plates to get to the magic stack height number and I come across this thread on another forum, where @TurboBlew is arguing with some street squid! The only thing that would have made it better is if @Robby-Bobby was involved. http://www.r6-forum.com/forums/57-garage-mechanical-help/422257-clutch-stack-height.html
43.5mm and and if its an OEM clutch kit (which you should have bought) they DO have paint marks on them. Black and purple. They're just really hard to see. You'll be left over with 3 extra steels. and I always run across stuff from Melk when I search for something R6 related. I dont
Oh yeah he's all over those threads, and has helped me via email too.....I'm still surprised at how little there is on DIY stuff online....maybe I'm just used to the Ducati community- they have to do more wrenching to keep stuff running! What size is the clutch hub nut? I need to buy me a socket.
32mm if I remember right and if you're going to modify your slipper springs don't follow the r6 forum directions, they're wrong and those guys are idiots. Also don't use an impact to put the clutch hub nut back on, make sure you have the holder tool because you'll end up snapping off the tabs that hold the slipper springs if you use an impact and they WILL fall in the motor. Don't ask me how I know.
It's not a 32, that is the Ducati one (I tried it) and the 41 I have is too big. Believe it or not I've searched online and used the manual and I can't find it. Thanks for the tip about the tabs! I won't mess with the springs, my bike works great, I would not be doing anything, but the clutch was starting to slip a tiny bit on shifts so I thought it was getting a little worn. Stack is 41.8, most of the fibers are 2.8 which is service limit.
++ Agree except for the oil. Walmart has Castrol GTX @ 16.97 for 5 quarts, SV oil filter is five bucks. Total oil change cost is less than $25.00. I might have a different opinion on the oil if I wasn't on a SS SV motor.
I think I finally got this project right, I used one thicker optional steel to get to about 43.2 stack height. Getting the cover on was a pain, I tried the safety wire and got lucky, but the pressure plate was not on right so the clutch lever couldn't be pulled. Off again and the second time was a huge pain, finally ended up laying it on the frame slider and the cover popped on. Now, regarding lever / cable adjustment, it seems the dots are slightly off, it works, but it's at the limit of cable adjustment on the loose side. The first time it was too tight, so I loosened the cover and ratchet the lever around, ending up slightly misaligned one more tooth to the rear, it was at the limit of cable adjustment on the TIGHT side, which means the cable could be pulling the clutch in slightly when the lever is fully extended- so I opted to go the other way.....one tooth "looser". On the stand, I started the bike and held in the clutch, popped it into first and the wheel started moving. Stopped it with the rear brake, and it stayed stopped, in gear with the brake released. Gonna take it for a spin around the block tomorrow, hopefully I got it right.
there is an arrow on the presure plate, and that needs to align with one of the 3 dots on the center hub.. (prior to putting cover on). that sounds like my stack. all standard metals with 1 thick optional. The arrow/dot on the actuator arm and cover need to be really close. they might not align perfect, but need to be close.. you can adjust without removing the cover all the way, and the pin will stay in the cover. It will take some practice, but will save you a shit-ton of time once you learn how to do it. And adjusting the arm one direction just by turning it and feeling it "pop' over the next tooth is easy the one direction, going other way will require you to pull the cover toward you enough to get the pin off the actuator arm teeth.. and potentially having it fall off the end .. lol... If it's working, great. but if you won't be able to add any slack, i would fix it now vs. having to do it trackside right before a session.
A google search will easily find a pdf version of the Yamaha manual for your R6. I try to do everything on my bike but motor work and suspension. I did a clutch last year and the manual was the best thing to go by when using the oem clutch. I had a hard time knowing if the info on the forums was correct or not. Too many idiots out there.
They are VERY close. I figured out how to ratchet it around 360 degrees by loosening the cover bolts and allowing it to come out but not all the way, so I have my choice of having it too tight or too loose. I went for too loose. I figure as the clutch wears it will require a LITTLE more slack, so I want to be able to add some later, vs. it being too tight. I have been using a PDF shop manual I found online, but after looking at it more closely it doesn't look like a current generation R6 clutch so it may be old. Also it has very little verbiage, just photos so maybe it's not the best one to be using. Thanks for taking the time to help, here and via email!
