if your stack height is too tall, the bike will creep in gear, and likely clunk a lot worse when you put in gear.. 43.5mm isn't horrible, but not ideal.. that said, i have never had a new stack need the thin optional, but obviously it's a possibility or it wouldn't come with one. with all standard i suspect you should be ok.
Well tonight was a learning experience. I will have to respectfully disagree with "the" Melk Man and say that taking off the snap ring off the bottom so the shaft can be turned/aligned by hand is the ONLY way to go. Seriously. I spent well over an hour fucking around with it before. Took off the snap ring, set the cover on, and used a piece of safety wire to hold up the shaft so it'd align in the cover. Literally took less than a minute. I about shit. And once properly installed, the clutch cover does NOT want to spring off the engine case (I thought so...). Lined up the dots, hooked up the clutch cable/adjusted, done. Just buttoned it together and checked for leaks, all is good. No tire movement with it in gear and the clutch pulled in. I checked that stack over and over again, but even with all "normal" 2.0mm steels, it was still 43.4-ish. Using the one thin additional steel put me right at 42.9 so I went with it. I am easy on clutches (read: shitty starts) and the factory one made it 8,200 miles, 7,000 of them track/race miles (4 seasons!). If I feel froggy, I may pull the cover mid season or at the end of this season and see where it's at since I will be able to refer back to this thread. Here's the safety wire I used. It was carefully bent so it'd fit through the oil filler hole and when held in the proper position, the safety wire rested on the pressure plate. So when the cover was on, all I had to do was gently hold the wire against the pressure plate and I knew I was in the right spot. Obviously once it was started, I just yanked on one end of the wire and pulled it out. The magnet trick would have probably worked just as well but I already had the safety wire on.
removing the snap ring and dropping the arm is faster for most, especially the uninitiated to this procedure ... but after you have done this about 40 times, it's faster for me to move just turn the arm and have the teeth "pop" from one tooth to the next till the arrow and dot line up. The wire to hold the pin is clever, and will keep the teeth aligned properly, probably better than a magnet through the fill hole. i think i may adopt this method.
Two things I learned with the safety wire. You have to use some needle nose pliers or whatever to pinch the wire as much as possible around the rod, otherwise it can still spin causing the teeth to get misaligned. I used a pair of needle nose and gave the wire about 1/2 a twist to hold it even better. Obviously don't go too crazy as you'll have to be able to remove it. Second, you will more than likely have to give a few twists by hand at the "handle" aide, you can see I did so in the pic. Only two or three turns is needed. This helps hold the shape of the wire as you slide the cover on. Once the cover is partitally installed just untwist it and pull it out. This method works best with thicker safety wire.
Well if I ever get to do an R6 clutch again, I may have to try this method. However the lay er low method works perfectly fine. LOL
Actually, I'm going to have to arrange a side deal with Livingood. I will fly in, come into your pits while you are out on one of your 13 races per day, and replace the Yami clutch!!!!! Hopefully you don't loose it and beat my ass, you are bigger than I am and much younger. LOLOLOL
It works. I just put the frame slider on the jackstand but after a while of practicing you can get it standing up in 20-30 seconds
I had to take a 3 year hiatus from the track due to a major career change and just now getting back into it. I have a 2006 R6. Motor is stock except for graves exhaust and power commander with a tune. The bike was started every couple of weeks and ridden around the neighborhood. At this time I am probably going to replace the hoses and flush the coolant. Where/what brand hoses do you recommend? Also anything else you can think of freshening up before my first track day in 3 years? Tires are a obvious must,oil and filter will be changed as well.
Samco hoses. That suspension could probably use a refresh. Maybe the spark plugs, but if it wasn't using MR12 prior to being stored, then they might be ok. Flush/change/bleed the brake fluid and check your brake pads.
good call on hoses and coolant that are/is that old, www.motohose.com , made right here in the USA, good guy that supports racers. I run Engine Ice (not wera legal). may want to send us your fuel injectors, we can "flow test only' for $7 each, full service for $19 per. And yes, as Chris and yourself stated.. flush brake fluid an clean up caliper pistons (i just use some diluted simple green or other bike wash and a tooth brush, and caliper piston tool to rotate the pistons).
When you clean the pistons are you actually taking the pistons all the way out of the caliper and doing like a rebuild with new seals?
Depends on my mood. If I know the caliper condition (aka I did a deep clean on them in the past) and they aren't bad I'll just push them mostly out but not past the seals and clean what's exposed. If I don't know their history, popping pistons is easy.
I have more than 20 sets of clutches change in the past three years and believe me as Greg said it's an easy task after to many clutches swap. Lol
but those first few times you attempt to put that cover on, right German ?!?! .. will make you want to burn the bike to the ground.. LOL
