If you are a few degrees off the in compression stroke it will kick over to the next cylinder.No worries. Chances are it's ready for the next cylinder in the firing order.
Will try it after this weekend. How much ($$) more is a "real" supersport refresh vs. just throwing in a low mile stock engine off of Ebay? With the Ducati, you always had to worry that it had come from a crashed bike that ran on it's left side, thus starving the oil pickup. That and the case bearings were suspect on the stock engine. So the Ebay thing was a real gamble.
Why not grab a stock engine off eBay (probably $500-$900 or so), then have Livengood do a SS build on it. Then you could put it in the bike and keep your current motor as a backup.
I've bought 3 motors and never had that problem. It could happen, but the tip over switch is pretty good in a yamaha. Also when I was buying them they were more in the 1200 to 1500 range.
Wow, that sucks. I just took a guess. I've only bought one motor off eBay (for a Gix 750 and it was only $800 with only 1500 miles on it).
it's never a bad thing having a spare motor.. if it's a good one. I would have issues buying a motor even if promised "low miles" and not having it torn down and gone through. It's just too expensive to get hotels, gas to get to the race, entries, my ass and other riders behind me on the line, to risk an unknown race motor..
Agree 100% when you are traveling and racing. If you are club racing and don't really care about a championship it may not matter. I for one, didn't enjoy changing out a motor at the track late into the evening the couple times I did it. If we were club racing, i would have just packed up and started drinking some beer.
I don't have spare motors. I just always bring 3-4 bikes. I have spare everything else though for each bike (bodywork, gas tank, wheels, all the normal bolt on stuff). I just don't have extra motors for each bike. Really don't even have room to take them if i did.
I am about to crack open the clutch cover on my R6 for the first time this afternoon. I picked up a digital caliper so I can measure my stack height. At this point I am not so worried about the install of the cover as I am making sure I install the new plates correctly. I have installed a few clutches in other bikes before but first time on the R6. Obviously I will double check, but if I use the same colored plates as what came with the bike (OEM from factory clutch installed, have OEM clutch to replace), wouldn't it be good to go stack height wise?
I always just threw in a new set of friction and steel plates. I didn't know there was a magic stack height number until around when tyler was hurt, so I didn't get to experiment with that. From what I understand if you get that number, it does make the slipper work better. That was something we were going to try next.
I know this is a dumb question and I'm just looking for some kind of reassurance, but it appears I don't need to use the optional thicker plates to achieve my 43mm stack height. All the plates are still dry. Using the purple friction plate first, alternating steels (sharp edge towards me if I were installing it) and finishing with the "brown" friction plate. Obviously I know what "optional" means, but it seems almost every person out there had to use the thicker plate (at least one) to get their height. Is it "normal" I can get away with using the "normal" steels? LOL. It's just that, at the current time, it's going easier than expected. And no, I haven't got to putting the cover on yet... Edit: on second (and third, and fourth) check, I'm getting just over 43mm. Might have to use the thinner steel to stay at 43mm on the dot.
I'm always leery of Harbor Freight stuff, so I quadruple checked with both all standard steels and the one thinner plate. I am getting consistent results and I am getting 43.5mm with all standard steels and 42.85 with the one thin steel, so I am going with that. I was kind of iffy with the info that was out there so I will just use this thread to post up my experience. Given the spec'd size of the steels, the numbers match up perfectly with what my Harbor Freight digital calipers are saying. So that inspires a bit of confidence in the calipers that they are accurate (or accurate enough). Not bad for $10. Steel plate # 168-16324-00 is the thicker 2.3mm steel. The "normal" ones are 3J2-16324-00 and they are 2mm thick. The "thin" steel is 168-16325-00 , 1.6mm. I don't know what makes the "purple" friction plate special, but it's installed first and the "brown" friction is installed last, right before the pressure plate is put on. Of course all this is in the FSM, but maybe these numbers will help someone in the future when they are working on their R6.
OK, seriously, babies are starting to get injured at this point. When it's installed correctly, the clutch cover should not want to jump out, correct? Like once it's resting on the dowel pins it should just sit there.
stack height is very important for good clutch action, and not having it slip when on gas. a hair over 43 is better, just keep all standard metals in there (2mm) , don't use the optional think to get just under. By hair over, i mean JUST over. Not 43.4 mm or so, i mean like 43.1-2 ? I just installed a new OEM kit (springs and all) in my superbike, didn't require the thicker optional. it will go in later though for sure when the stack height goes down a tad. there is a difference in the fiber teeth of the inner most fiber and the rest. i think the outermost has different material but not sure on that .. offset the LAST FIBER, this prevents damage to the clutch if you do let it get way worn, and the stack height gets below 42mm. those offset teeth will ride on a ring in the basket, and not allow the stack to engage if you let it get this worn.
if the cover is on the pin, when you twist the actuator arm, it pulls the cover right onto the engine. You then need to see if the arrow/dot are lined up. you can adjust this without moving the cover off the pin, but it takes practice. some just bolt it up, then drop the arm out of the cover (remove a circlip) and slide back up in place. i don't do it that way.. Oil the outer part of the gasket, so the cover won't stick to it next time ! ! !
Yeah, it did that. When I pulled on the arm, it felt like it was "pulling" the cover into the engine case. I've just had a life time of experience of not drawing parts together with bolts, and I'm not used to the clutch cover wanting to separate from the engine case when it's just sitting there?
