GSXR keyless ignition/run

i'm trying to set up the racebikes(gsxr1000/750) to run without the use of the keyed switch attached to the tripple clamp. I will route the power leads through the existing bar mounted kill switch, however there seems to be a 100 ohm resistor built into the factory key switch between the orange(from ecm) & b/w(ground) of which the manual makes no mention. the bikes will not start with/without these wires connected unless i use a resistor between them........its not a problem to use one, it just seems kinda odd, unless its a theft deterent system. anyone have experience with this mod??? also , i'd like to remove the secondary butterfly servo motor, but get Fi codes when disconnected.....anyone, bueller, bueller......

 

The resistor is theft deterent.

I'd leave the secondaries. I read an article once where they moved the throttle butterflies to the position of the secondaries (to increase intake runner length) but from what I remember it was almost unrideable in the lower gears.

 

Trevor, you reading this?

Looks like the contraption stays!

I think I'm going to take a swing at the keyless ignition though. One less thing to forget on the way to the track. Besides that, all the AMA boys do it so it must be faster.

 

i've been running my 1k with the secondary butterflies/actuator cables removed and can't tell any real difference. i beleive yosh makes a kit to completely remove the shaft and improve flow at WOT but i'm not sure. my servo motor is basically useless and amounts only to excess weight. thanks for the info on the ignition switch......will s.

 

as far as the key what you need to do is this:

Parts:

100 Ohm Resistor, 1/2 watt, 5% tolerance: Radio Shack part 271-1108
18-20 Gauge Wire (two different colors)
Electrical Tape

I soldered all of the connections. If you would rather use connectors and
a crimping tool, you will need to have a supply on hand. I am not sure how
one would install the resistor with out a soldering iron.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Here is the legend for the various wires involved in the re-wiring:

Wire Colors and Functions (Right Handle Switch (Kill Switch)):

O/B (Orange with Black Tracer) -- Kill Switch
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) --

Wire Colors and Functions (Key Switch):

Br (Brown) - Tail Light
B/W (Black with White Tracer) - Ground
Gr (Gray) - Instrument Cluster Light and Horn
O (Orange) - Ignition
O/W (Orange with White Tracer) - Cooling Fan
O/Y (Orange with Yellow Tracer) - ECU
R (Red) - Power (+12v)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Removal:

The first step is to remove the two wiring harnesses that will be
modified: the key switch and the right clip-on switch cluster. Find and
disconnect the connectors that connect these harnesses to the main wiring
harness. The key switch has two connectors along the right frame spar.
The right clip-on switch cluster has a connector just in front of the
radiator on the right side. You will have to open some zip ties and a
clamp to get the harnesses free.

To remove the key switch, you will have to take off the top triple clamp
and remove the two tamper resistant Torx bolts. I do not have the correct
Torx bits so I drilled the heads of the bolts off. To remove the right
clip-on switch cluster, you will need to disconnect the throttle cables
from the cluster.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Key Switch Harness Modification:

This one is actually quite simple. Start by cutting all the wires 2" from
the main connector. Cut the Br and Gr wires at the connector so they are
slightly recessed since they will not be used. Cut the O/Y and B/W wires
to 1" in length and solder a lead of the 100 Ohm resistor to each wire.
Insulate the wires and resistor with Electrical tape to keep the O/Y and
B/W wires and resistor leads from touching. Leave the R and O wires at 2"
for now.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Right Clip-on Switch Cluster Harness Modification:

The goal here is to re-wire this harness so the circuit the kill switch
normally controls is always connected (run) and to have two wires coming
out of the harness connected to the kill switch.

In the run position, the kill switch completes a circuit between the O/B
and O/W wires. The O/W wire actually connects to the starter button and
the kill switch. A "Y" is formed about 4 inches down the wiring harness
from the switch. Cut into the sheath and find where the O/W wire forms the
"Y" and cut the O/W wire that leads to the kill switch. Cut the O/B wire
at the same point in the harness and solder it to the O/W running to the
Starter Switch. Run a pair of wires through the sheath and connect them to
the O/W and and O/B wires from the kill switch. Leave about 3" of wire
hanging out from the sheath at the connector end. Use electrical tape to
insulate all of the connections and to cover the cut in the sheath.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Putting it All Together:

Take the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors and plug them into the corresponding connectors on the main
wiring harness. Look at the R and O wires coming from the key switch
harness and the two unconnected wires coming from the right clip-on switch
cluster harness. If needed, cut the appropriate amount of wire from the
right clip-on switch cluster harness to allow for an uncluttered
connection.

Unplug the key switch harness and right clip-on switch cluster harness
connectors. Connect the R wire from the key switch harness to an
unconnected wire from the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Connect
the O wire from the key switch harness to the other unconnected wire from
the right clip-on switch cluster harness. Use electrical tape to insulate
all of the connections.

Put the kill switch in the "stop" position and plug the connectors in
again. Put the kill switch in the "run" position. The bike should power on
and be ready to start. Try starting the bike. If it starts, you are just
about done.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Finishing Up:

Reinstall the right clip-on switch cluster and clean up the wiring harness
connections.

That's it......

 

bumped for a friend.

 

why not just safety wire your key in ??? Thats what I did and use a vortex twist off gas cap.

 

just bought a race bike that had the ignition still in.. key was bent and unusuable. Luckily there was a working spare. plus it's extra weight and something else that can go wrong. I'd rather bypass it.

 

Can you get a pic of this mod? Sounds a lot easier than going to college and becoming a rocket scientist.

 

this does not work for 04/05, there is no B/W wire on the switch harness..........just a friendly reminder


JB

 

04/05 bikes need power supplied to resistor 01-03 had ecu suppling the power and all you needed to do was to ground the resistor. 04-05 the ign switch supplied the power to resistor then it whent to the ecu....

 

so what does the wiring look like?
wire colors on the ignition switch are different as well

JB

 

is the resistor the same? i can figure out lookin at the schematic which wire is the signal for the ecm but does anything else need to be done?

JB


JB

 

i got it figured out, thanks everybody!!!

if anyone needs any help with this i can explain it better in person or on the phone than trying to type it out.

pm me if anyone is trying to do this on an 04 or 05

JB

 

Anyone else have any success with the 04/05 Suzuki GSXR 600? I need to implement fast or I may get hosed on this motor.

Any insight appreciated.
Thanks,
Kerry

 

BMFGSXR....does that apply to an 04 750 also? I remember using those direction on a 01 gsxr 600.

 

I know for a fact the directions from BMFGSR are for the 01-03, will not work with the 04/05 600/750

 

ok, I'll take a stab at this, since I managed to get my 04 working with no key...typing from memory here.

the kill switch mods are exactly the same, no difference at all....just dont forget to make sure to jump the wires that normally go to the switch so that the bike thinks its closed

now, with your 2 new wires from the kill switch....
one (either wire, it doesnt matter) goes to the orange wire in at the ign switch connector (looking at the end of the empty connecter, its the top right pin)

with the other, youll need to make a 3 way split, with a 100 ohm resistor on one leg...the resistor-ed wire goes in the bottom center pin of the connector, and the plain wires go to the upper left and lower left pins

hold your breath and flip the kill switch on, the bike should power up and start

 

I'll give it a shot and keep you posted.

 

Anyone know where I could find a write up like the one above from bmfgsxr for an 06 GSXR1000?