When I asked the HR guy about their opinions, what they were moving most, and the feedback from customers, he ranked the Kitaco 181(3?) kit tops because of the crank set that none of the other BBK kits features. He also said that (at that time) they had sold around 50 of the Koso 170 kits and had positive feedback on them as well. I've been looking at a few of the youtube videos of people discussing their mods and it looks like the consensus is that it's not really worth the money to do mods like pipe and intake if you're not going to go with a displacement increase as all they've seemed to achieve is making them louder but not really any faster in relation to the money spent. I had been interested in the Finbro big valve head and higher compression piston that still keeps the 125 displacement, but the GROM forums I checked out seems to be unanimous in their experience that piston/valve contact is an ongoing issue that has yet to be resolved.
Mine was pretty much rear wheel in the air or sliding sideways from the minute I took it off the trailer (actually I think I unloaded it at my old work parking lot and annoyed the HR guy by leaving a bunch of black marks around the loading dock). I still have the stock pads and lines on it. Every now and then I'll get either the front or rear hot enough to not be happy, but they are manageable otherwise.
I replaced the OEM front brake pad with I forget now, but it was too much power and I ended up folding the front when the pads got hot, and seems to be the case with upgraded pads on the Grominator.
RidersDiscount selling their Grom with 36 miles on it http://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Honda-Grom-/332272850539?ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT makes my 160 miles look like a lot
What fender eliminator kit do you guys recommed? I like the ones that have the integrated turn signals so i don't have to remove the turn signals when i race it.
Mine has the Takagawa (I think that is how it is spelled) 185cc kit, with a 4-valve head and external oil cooler. It makes 22hp, so you will HAVE to go into the clutch. Once he finished building the motor, Brian couldn't even get it past 6k on the dyno with the OEM clutch. You will also need to change the gearing. I am currently -2 on the front. Brian was very impressed with the kit. When they first came out, there were big bore kits everywhere for $300. But they had some janky looking shit in them. He said this one is a proper CNC job, very nice, very robust, very good tolerances, etc. He expects it to be nearly, if not just as reliable as OEM. I cant remember how much the kit costs, I think it was around $2,200 or some shit.
Hellifiknow. I think Brian had some shit welded onto the exhaust, but I don't know what it is or does.
Im running a Finbro ECM, PCX injector and no need for A/F meter Bazaz or PCV...lot cheaper and more power too.