Dirt bikes

Ordering one of these to see if it works.

https://www.ebay.com/i/181572214340...IJ_sSZ60XHJLTViqB-A8ooZZO84Vaw4oaAj_zEALw_wcB

Any chance you remember exactly where it was? Searched all over Slavens website and can't find anything. Although I'm found something that *may* work above, I'd rather pay more for a turnkey solution (than having to cut and clean that tube).

 

If it's wheel bearing/axle related, I would recommend hitting up @TWF2 for some parts.

 

If that wheel is using spacer on each side then it will be easy, just 2 captive spacers. If axle is spacer sleeve can work as long axle tightens against bearing inner race. If not replace bearing with one that has correct ID if available.

 

Just briefly googled around and a company named BRC makes that exact spacer. They are Australian though, maybe a US based company makes them too.

 

I'll look around again. As suggested- the conversion captive spacers are probably a better option.

 

If you have dimensions I can make them.

 

I like your style

 

Deal. Let me try to measure them and not fuck it up too bad. Will send you a PM.

 

Cash Bros MX
Alabama

 

nice Whit!

Ski

 

https://issuu.com/dirtbiketest/docs/20dbt_issue_1final/6?ff

New magazine just dropped the first issue yesterday.
Pretty damned good.
Especially the Danny Hamil story.

 

Where'd you get your power bundle from? The only place I know of is the link I posted above but would prefer to go with a know commodity if you're pleased with yours.

 

ktmandhusky.com

Saw them awhile back on YouTube with dyno testing and bought it. I'm not using the tube in the airbox they sell as part of the kit- swapped the whole airbox on my bike.

 

Towards the end of "The Dawn Lap" about 22 hours into a 25 hour race a couple of weeks ago.

 

Sent you an email.

 

Have never had a rekluse before so wondering if that's causing my "issue"; long story short, checking the valves on the FE 350 tonight and got all ready to rock and roll but then tried to get to TDC by rotating the rear wheel and nothing happened. Tried first gear, tried sixth gear, tried third gear - not the faintest hint of movement in any of them.

Am I just forgetting something idiotic? Would trying to start the bike with the kill switch off move the cams and/or is that a feasible option?

 

Yes it is probably the issue. You can use the slave adjuster to temporarily lock up the clutch.

 

I tried turning the Reklush adjuster in as tight as it could go and that didn't solve the issue (was I meant to back it out as far as possible?), but I got to TDC by trying to start the bike with the kill switch and turning the engine over that way.

FWIW, valves are all skewing tight-ish - 10 and 11 on the intake and 13s on the exhaust. Will probably ride it for 10 hours or so and then adjust unless you guys think that's playing with fire and I should adjust now (it's got 146 hours and 3,013 miles).

 

They are fine at those numbers. I’d check them in 20-30 hours and they will probably be in the same place.
I always just pull the timing plug and use a socket to turn it, takes all of thirty seconds to do.

 

Anyone know anything about putting lights on a ktm 300 tpi? I just picked up a 2021 xc. You can’t find -w’s anywhere. Unicorns.
I’m not going to do a lot of night riding, but I would like the option. Especially in the summer. Ideally I’d like to put the stock taillight from the -w on there and run a small 2x2 LED cube on the handlebar.

from preliminary research, it looks like I’ve got plugs for the Oem headlight, but I want more light than that.


Should I just go with something like this? It just hardwires into the battery and has a handlebar switch

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/thumper-jockey-crusader-headlight-kit-p?v=16668