Concrete flatwork guys

Its 30x40 and an average depth of 4.75 (its not the smoothest prep). I targeted 5" but had some slight shallower areas.

So Im about .5 yards over the theoretical amount. And I have about 5 cu ft of bag concrete left in the garage if I am a tad short.
When I confirm and pay on wednesday I may try to bump it a tad.

I didnt ask yet about water reducers or curing agents. Temps as of now are expected to be mid/upper 50s and partly sunny. If I have to stay on it until 10 pm + I can. At night down to mid 30's. I will reserve the power trowel and such monday. I plan to saw cut in 10ft grids after a day or 2. 1.25-1.5" deep sound right?

I already have a pail kit of coating for the floor. It will be about 10-12mils DFT. Prep will be to grind the laitance of the surface so I want the concrete flat and smooth but I dont need it 8 hits with a power trowel smooth, since the coating is going on.

What are the usual fees for adding water reducer or cold temp agents? I was thinking of only water reducer... maybe...to help dry time. But also slow dry is OK so we amateurs can work it longer.

 

I’d cut the next morning seeing you are starting late and it’s cold . Cuts 1.5 inches deep on a 10 foot grid works great . I wouldn’t worry about water reducers being 4,000 psi . Maybe a blend mix/sidewinder mix versus Regular Rock .
Pour the bays short ways . Screed goes with that bay , bull float goes perpendicular to the straight edge . Don’t raise the blades up much for floating ( first few passes ) . As floor gets harder blades go up some . If it’s chattering blades are up to high .
Gotta give the concrete a month or more before your coating . Are you dried in under roof ?

 

Thanks.

Putting roof on over next day or 2...depending on wind.
No sides until after pour so we can reach the whole floor.

 

poured today.
Trucks were an hour late, of course. Made my helpers mad (family)
making passes with the power trowel now.

Here it is after bull float.




Its probably not the smoothest or flattest slab ever poured. But Ive seen and coated worser....

 

funny just today I had 2 emergency slab pours & 1 that had 5 trucks on standby... I asked the Sup what happens if it fails?? The look on his face... haha

 

Nice but Lol......
How do you need an "emergency slab pour".

Are they teams of finishers just sitting on call in a "fire house" ready to parachute in on a moments notice? The poor bastard who has to jump with the bull float handles strapped to his side...... And you would have to drop in the power trowel as a 2 pack of door bundles.

 

they had the trucks and finishers onsite... ready to go just lacked the necessary PASS to pour it. They paid a hefty fee for priority. Or they could have paid an engineer to eval after...

Pay is a min 4hrs OT each even if it takes 10 mins.

 

Nice job for amateurs !!

 

Fuck dude...is it going to be bowling lanes ?? Probably not so you guys did a helluva job...kudos.

 

Hey ChemGuy,
Care to share any updates on this? I'm hoping to build a 30x40 shop this spring and am looking to get any ideas I can steal from other builds. What are you doing for insulation in this?
Craig

 

Craig I finally got the wall metal on over Xmas weekend. Due to 'budget constraints', ie I'm out of money , I dont have garage doors to put in so I blocked those openings with heavy plastic, OSB and 2x4s until spring. I am now working on the floor, fixing a few things and hope to apply coating this weekend. But now the weather has turned against me.

I have some led lights due in this week and am running with temporary power...extension cords for now.

For insulation i plan to use PolyIso board as there is a plant nearby and several local guys sell at a discount. I plan to use 1.5" board in the walls in between the girts. and then add maybe 1" on top of that. I will try to keep this tight and use Al tape to seal this in, to reduce air infiltration. Over this in each bay I will add some plastic sheet, again to act as a vapor barrier. then cover that with ~1/2 OSB or ply painted white. I have seen several of these done on Garage journal and it looks OK. Better than an open bay or exposed insulation. Its also something that can be done piece by piece.

Originally I wasnt going to add a ceiling, but I have decided to do that and leave the area above open and vented. Right now the plan is to add some 2x4 cross pieces in between the bottom cord of the trusses (scissor trusses). Then I will add plastic sheet as a vapor barrier some sort of metal for a ceiling and install either blown in or fiberglass batt in each bay.

My goal is first layer of wall insulation and ceiling/insulation in before next winter.

Go check out builds on Garage Journal forum for lots of info.

 

That’s precious...reading your sig and all.

 

For real...3 insulated garage doors and tracks....> $3k. With windows even more.

 

Yeah. I started building when lumber was way up. I probably spent an extra 1-2k on lumber building when I did....and concrete is high too.

My Boss is having his retirement home custom built on some land up by Dahlonega...bids are crazy right now.

 

I built a new home in 1998, 2400 sq ft, ranch, walk out basement....140k in it. My brother builds homes, that today is 600-700k on your lot.