Aprilia RS660 Tech Discussion

Reverse engineering the ECU is definitely possible, there are tools available to help but they are expensive and only get you so far. Like any ECU project you will have to have extensive knowledge and put in a lot of time, there's no magic bullet, no shortcuts. Flashing isn't difficult if you know what you're doing, the tough part is figuring out the elements of the ECU, what they contain and how they interact. Anyone who's put in the time and effort isn't going to give away their work unless you're a Subaru fanboy.

I'm not a fan of piggyback systems, they are band aids and have a host of issues unto themselves. Optimal tuning requires diving in head first and testing and re-testing. It's not easy but when you get it right the benefits are enormous.

 

I've been considering (read: waiting to hear about reliability) getting into the 660 platform for track/race only. I love building and working on my own bikes but I have a lack of working space and little time split between too many hobbies these days to spend so much time prepping a bike.

There's plenty of stock rs660s nearby that I could buy on MSO, but a dealer also has a trofeo. A couple posts back, most seem to think that the trofeo isn't worth it. I started to tally up all the components and work that goes into a trofeo. If it could be obtained at the list price it seems like a deal to be able to pick up a turnkey package with pretty much every mod needed already done.

The other considerations is that there is a lot of coin to be saved if you buy something stock and sort only what you find is needed. I also don't believe the trofeo comes with any warranty whatsoever, whereas a built stock rs660 would. I could be wrong.

Now I just need to get over how incredibly unreliable my 2017 Tuono V4 factory was. Over 2500 miles I experienced a failed immobilizer, cracked t-stat, dead injectors, wouldn't start before sessions randomly, went into limp mode during sessions, and electronics aid problems.

 

Metronic will have an ecu out soon

 

Is there anyway to turn off traction control and keep wheelie control? I have the race ECU in race mode, time attack electronic settings. ATC kicks in too often even at 1, but I don't want to give up wheelie control for starts.

 

My tuner can flash it to Euro spec Race ECU, I believe. Larry Zullo [email protected]

 

You could just set it to dynamic mode (TC & WC enabled) for starts, then change to time attack right after the start, all aids will be disabled.

 

Sonofabitch, he's right.

I've never adjusted anything on the fly and forgot that was possible. I'll do exactly that. Thanks.

 

Even a broken clock is right twice a day.
Now if someone could answer my previous question in similar fashion, I’d be in business.

 

I tuned for VP U4.4 with a rapid bike race module. Gained 3hp.

 

BSB Pirelli National Sportbike Championship. I wonder who will sell that package.

 

The technical regs for that class will be a giant cluster fuck. You have the Ninja650 that makes 63hp and the Honda Hornet that makes 90hp. They're going to have to give parts to the slow bikes (Ninja 650, R7) and neuter the fast bikes (Honda Hornet, RS660)

 

Yeah but that's Honda 90hp.. which is like 75 real world horse power

 

How do you do this? I thought you had to access the vehicle menu and select either RACE or ROAD to be able to access those settings?

Right now my mode control button only toggles between TIME ATTACK and CHALLENGE

 

I didn't think there was access to the ROAD setting with race ECU? DYNAMIC & Time Attack can be toggled between with my map handlebar button. Since you want TC off during your race, you'll want to use Time Attack after you get off the line. All of the aids can be adjusted in Dynamic mapping.

 

So for the record AF-1 in Texas will flash your stock ECU with the race ECU Program for $350 as opposed to paying $800 for the race ECU ‍♂️
https://www.af1racing.com/mapping2-rs660-af1-racing-rs660-race-ecu-mapping-mapping2-rs660

 

Sorry to bring up gearing again. I just ran stock 17/43 gearing last year but thinking about switching it up as I mostly run short tracks like NHMS.

Anyone running a 16 F sprocket? If so any chain pull issues (and what is chain pull anyways?)?

I am thinking either 16/44 or 17/46, but not sure which is the better way to go.

 

I use 16 front sprocket at Barber, Jennings, Tally no prob.

 

Great thanks!

 

Is this measurement from the bottom of the steering stem to the center of the axle? Or from the bottom of the bottom triple to the center of the axle?

I measured from the base of the steering stem (top of the bottom triple) to the center of the axle and I'm at 520.7. 1MM slider showing above top Robem triple.

 

Edit: I measured the bottom of the bottom triple (Robem triple) to the center of axle and I'm at 483mm.

Went to 165NM rear this round and it was very helpful. 310mm shock length. The bike came with .925 front spring and I went to .975, this was a good change, but still running too much preload as it's high in the stroke off the throttle. Hard to make it transition and still wants to run a bit wide on exits. Although this could be the rider being lazy with turn in.