RD350 Ignition Upgrade

And as far as the brown band, it's not free, you earn it!

 

Its missing the headers and the mufflers are a bit rusted/flaky on the bottom side. It didnt have the airbox either,but I already bought a new Y-boot and the K&N filter setup that seems common on them.So im still searching for chambers.

 

Darn. I was hoping I could put together a good swap and do right by a bike I used to own. Many years ago I had a good one and in the foolishness of youth, butchered a wonderful bike and sold off the stock stuff. While I don't particularly like the guy who now owns it and am loath to do him any favors, I thought this might be a chance to help you in your need for chambers and make amends to my old RD.
Good luck in your project and your racing with it.

 

So you need stock RD parts?

 

Thats one of the sites ive been looking at. Another dumb question,do you guys use that battery eliminator? addendum#1:Im going to have alot of dumb questions on the RD.

 

Yes, we eliminate the battery by taking it to the recycle center…so the question is: are you planning to run OEM ignition?

 

If this thing won't be on the street, I'd say the cheaper and lighter race ignition is a no brainer.

 

Or if you're on a budget, run a total loss battery and brand new factory points. I did that for my first two seasons on a CB350.

 

I ran my enfield with points for awhile then got a boyer/bransden ignition for it.So to answer your question: No,I dont want to run the OEM

 

Well, you don't have to…before he sold his RD350 to me, Josh Smith-Moore won a C-ship on it using OEM ignition.

 

We, Vintage Specialties, do sell the PVL systems. Contact me if you want prices.
Lyn Garland

 

:up::up::up: There ya go!

 

Is it true that PVL doesn't cut keyways into their flywheels?

 

No keyway in the rotor…tight press fit on end of shaft, with some Loctite applied on the clean shaft, and then a nut with washer. I've never had one 'slip' or move.

 

It's more getting the initial timing right that worries me.

 

with the PVL? It's actually a very simple process…dial gauge in the cylinder head does the trick…a most reliable ignition system.

 

The Woodruff key in the Yamaha ignition system does not hold the rotor in place it locates the rotor during installation. The key is so small that if the rotor was not securely held to the crankshaft and the engine backfired, it would shear the key instantly. Charles is correct; you use a dial indicator to locate the approximate timing point, install the rotor, rap it smartly with a leather or plastic hammer to seat it on the taper, and install the bolt. You then accurately set the timing using the dial indicator. I have never had a rotor slip in all the years I have used Femsa, Moto-Plat. PVL systems. I also did not use Locktite or fine valve grinding compound as some tuners did to help seat the rotor on the shaft.
Lyn Garland

 

I have a set of spec 2 full race chambers for a 350. They are not perfect but I would still run them. Would let them go real cheap to help you get on track if you will put me in touch with your RD parts and bike guy. I am looking for another RD250 for the street.

Would also be willing to help with any build or assembly issues you may need help with. I am in York PA now but used to live in southern Maryland, but I am not a SMIB.

 

PM sent.:up:

 

Are you Amish?