Ok... So I'm double checking the timing on this motor, and I'd like someone with more experience with this motor to put an eye on these pics and let me know what you think. The pictures are taken with the #1 piston (rider's right) at TDC as shown by the first picture with the timing mark at the case's mating surface. I did the best I could to take pictures of the cam gears and where their timing marks lay. Since this isn't just a lawnmower engine or something like that, I would expect these tick marks to be pretty much exactly in line with the top of the head, but as you can see, they're not. Also, when I line up the marks on the cam gears (they both line up with the head at the same time, which tells me that these two gears didn't jump time, but possibly the crankshaft gear jumped a tooth), the crank gear is past the case's mating surface (past clockwise) by roughly 7/32", which just happens to be the pitch of the timing gears. TO ME... it appears that the bottom gear is off a tooth, and I need to line up to TDC and adjust the cam gears to align perfectly with the valve cover mating surface. I have talked with the previous owner, and it sounds like these should be spot on, but I'd like to just double check before I go farther. This is my first time in a race motor (although, admittedly, this isn't that deep into the motor ), so I just want to make sure I have my ducks in a row. Thanks again for your help, guys. **Edit: I just looked at the 3rd pic, the mark that you see that almost lines up with the mating surface is the top part of the "I", not the tick mark.
I hate to say it, but you may be in over your head. Notice that the bolts holes are slotted- the cams have been retimed. Marks are no longer exact. I can't see the images well enough to be sure of much. Best thing to do would be to put a degree wheel and indicator on it.
Alright... got the timing sorted out. We're good to go! One tiny question I have at this point... I noticed this happened a couple of times so I wanted to see what the consensus is. When I start it up and let it warm up, I have been blipping the throttle up to about 3k just so it gets sufficient oil pressure. After a while doing this (probably 3-5minutes?), the engine light comes on and shows a code of 42. I looked it up the in the manual, and it shows 2 possibilities, the speed sensor and neutral switch. Once the problem is fixed, you are to put the bike in gear and let it run in gear for a bit, then the code is cleared off the dash. So I double checked all connections and what not, run the bike in gear, and it clears out. However, if I go thru the same routine, it will kick back on. My question is... is this just due to the amount of time it is sitting in neutral? I never had this issue with the other motor, so wiring/connectors should all be ok. It's possible that one of the sensors is faulty, but I'm wondering if the ecu is tripping the code because it thinks the bike should be moving with the throttle blipping the way I am, so it thinks something is wrong with the speed sensor. I could let it idle for a while and see if it still does it, but since I just spun a bearing on the other, I'd rather not just let it idle. Also... after letting it warm up a bit, I took it down the street and back, and didn't have the code pop up. Is it caused by my blipping? Or is it something else?
never had this issue on any of my bikes from blipping while warming in neutral or in gear .. can't offer any more technical advice than that.
Well you're a lot of help. haha. I'm going to take it with me this weekend and maybe get a practice session or two on it. I'll see if I can pin-point when it does it... or if it continues to do it at all. Didn't have an issue later this evening with it, so who knows. Man, this thread has morphed. Sorry for the thread jack... I just figured there's no reason to start another new thread for every little issue.
Never seen that issue myself on more than 100+ 06+R6. Check connections on plugs maybe. Shouldn't be related to warming up unless maybe your neutral switch "sticking" slightly? Again seems odd
Yeah... One thing that I think it could possibly be is the connectors on the speed sensor. The connectors from the old motor and the new motor were just SLIGHTLY different, so I'm wondering if that's what is causing it. The new motor's connector has extra insulation, so it didn't let the harness connector engage all the way on the sensor's connector. I cut some of that back and I haven't seen it since. I'll know more after this weekend.
Different. The fuel rail is the main thing I remember, I would have to check tonight to spot the others.
i'm seeing a part # difference, the 08 stuff as usual is preceded with "13s.." http://www.ronayers.com/INTAKE-2--C435854.aspx http://www.ronayers.com/INTAKE-2--C473998.aspx
Also, The airbox mating surface is different as the airbox funnels are smaller/different on the newer design.