Post your road bicycle

All carbon fiber Bianchi. Frame, fork, stem, bars, seat post, cranks and even the brakes.

 

Refer to my thread I started a while back about what is needed. And yeah you will feel like an ass at first lol

 

I would go back and look but I can't tell who's being a dick and who's being serious when giving you advice. This was easier. lol

 

Steel is real.

 

lol well yeah with me you know that shit happens a lot lol

I started because of a shoulder injury. I took the good info here and went used. I would talk to someone in regards to your height and there will be a range. Prolly like a 60-62 for you or something. Then start looking for used. Or go to a local shop like they posted above. That Fuji posted will be good to learn what to do on. Meaning finding out if this shit is for you or not. Because I can tell you, it ain't for everyone. But this way you would have a bike fitted for you, and it done properly. Get a good brand of either shorts or a bib. Which looks like a wrestling singlet. It just keeps your shorts from falling. You can find ton's of cheap shirts (jerseys) on Ebay or amazon. Get a couple and two or three bibs. Shoes and a helmet are next. Shoes I got some Gavin cycling shoes, they were cheap and have been fine for 2,000 miles worth of riding so far. Pedals, mine are a pair of Look pedals on the Felt and a set of Wellgo on the Giant. Next is a HR monitor and a cycle computer. Those can be had under $80 or you can find a Garmin 510 or above, used for under $200. You can get a cheapy helmet but that is up to you. Oh and get some good GatorSkins tires with Tuffys in them to prevent flats. and a high pressure pump too. Oh and a bag for tubes n shit.

Disclaimer..... I am a newbie and giving newbie advice. This is what has worked for me.

 

Yeah... Real heavy lol.

 

How tight is your budget and how soon are you looking to start? If you're willing to spend some time getting components and go used you can easily save 50- 70% off new retail buying on eBay. You should especially look into it given your height, I guarantee you can get a crazy deal on a frame. I'm 6'4" and ride 60 - 62 / XL

My first good road frame was a Trek aluminum / carbon deal I got on eBay. It was about 2 years old and in amazing shape. The market is extremely soft for big frames, so I picked it up for $ 72 on auction.

My current frame I bought a brand new old stock 2005 TCR0 full carbon. $ 300 on the 'Bay.

If you put in some effort you can also get a full Di2 drivetrain (minus cranks, cassette) for 500 - 600, add maybe 300 for 11 speed parts.

I guarantee you can build a carbon bike with full Ultegra Di2 for about $ 1500 - 2000 total. Spread it out buying parts over a few months and it could be easily affordable.

You might get a better deal brand new if you strike at the right time, but I highly doubt it.

PS, yes the spandex is 100% necessary if you are at all serious. Look around local bike shops, if it's on clearance you can get shit 70% off because your size hardly sells.

 

Ideally I would like to be riding in the next month-month and a half I would like to pedal around at Fontana at the end of July to "walk" the track. But really that doesn't have to happen. I am going to go get fitted for a bike next week and see what they say about my size and where I should be at performance bike.

Budget wise as Is going to have to stretch with all the supporting stuff. Dustin gave me a pretty good break down in a PM.

What's the difference in feel between steel vs aluminum vs carbon vs titanium besides weight? Most of the new frames I'm looking at in my price range are aluminum but used I found a few carbon.

 

And smoooove. I've got an old Ciocc from the mid to late 80s. Shimano Ultegra Ultra and Ambrosio wheels baby!

 

If you build a bike from parts and sourcing used from various places it will take probably 2 months.

I've never rode titanium or a good steel bike so I can't speak for it. Theoretically a metal bike is going to give better feedback than carbon. It also allows manufacturers much more flexibility in material thickness, adding or subtracting strength exactly where needed. So you get a better performing frame with less weight as it's been optimized. I've had friends who even owned bamboo bikes. It's hard to say though because tires, wheels, bars, frame geometry and fitment make a huge difference in road feel. Personally I like carbon. One thing I do notice is that on high speed descents my carbon bikes have been far less prone to speed wobbles, I assume because it's more compliant but like I said it might also be bike setup.

Metal might also be more resistant to damage in a crash, but carbon can also be easily if not cheaply repaired even with catastrophic damage.

 

Well yeah I was only kidding. Because my carbon is stiiiffffff.

 

If you live in Socal, AKDrift, this seems like a pretty good deal. Its a 2013 60 CM full carbon Cannondale SuperSix with Ultegra and Mavic wheels. It looks clean. I bet the guy would take $1500

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/bik/5572253081.html

 

A friend builds custom steel frames that are way lighter than what you're riding.

 

Carbon- stiff. Some are harsh. You can look at Roubaix types with flex built in.
Aluminum- I've had harsh ones, beat the crap out of you on bad roads. New ones are pretty compliant.
Steel- rolling shock absorber. Really nice on 100 mile rides.
Titanium- really nice ride for me. Easily my favorite compromise.

A lot of it depends upon the wheel set. Having wheels hand built makes a huge difference. I don't like the deep rims, they are not fun in crosswinds.

 

Oh I know. My last non Carbon bike was an'03 Ciocc with an aluminum frame and carbon fork. The way they lay up carbon bikes today is so much better in terms of compliance and damping. My Storck would hop the rear wheel in just about any sprint, but the Madone and Venge are much more whippy without being flexy.

But an old steel bike still has a special charm to me.

 

Rob English by any chance???? Please tell me it's English!!!

 

Shameless plug for a wheel builder: http://www.psimet.com/

Rob builds all wheels in house by hand. He's an engineer by trade and very very meticulous and methodical with his builds. I've had two sets that never needed truing. Tension was perfect on every spoke.

And like you said, the wheels can make or break the ride. The trend towards 25c tires had been a blessing to my old bones.

 

True story. If I had to do it again, I'd have gone with a more shallow rim. I'll fully admit to going with form over function on that one. Most of the time, it's not noticeable, but a big gust every now and then will really get my attention.

 

i never understood people putting big money into high end wheels to train on. i always ran 28mm tires on 36 hole rims (for gravel road deathmarches!) and then swapped to the ultralights or deepdish for racing. felt so fast and saved the wheels for when it's important.

 

I'm not joking when I say this.
Heart rate monitor will scare the living hell out of you.
Guy mentoring me warned me I went for it anyhow.
Go crush some tough KOM's and watch the heart rate. It gets scary.
I guess that why I love pedaling so much. End of last year riding season was best cardio shape I had been in since doing some decathlon style events about 10 years ago.
Anyhow I don't wear the heart rate monitor anymore.
I know when I pushing and when I'm not. Strava takes care of that.

Ride safe,
AAron