new truck purchase.. school me on diesels

16! I think you’re 6 too high muchaco or you’ve been overfilling you’re truck lol.

 

I had 6.0, oil change was around 15 quarts.

 

Yea, my duramax is around 10

 

15 quarts

 

Duramax is 10. You can try and cram 15 in there if you want. If it doesn’t all go in the oil fill just put the rest down the air box so the turbo can suck it up as it needs it.

 

Starting with the new 6.7 Diesel Ford, back in 2011 model year, it takes 13 quarts.......not 15. It was a pretty big issue in the beginning as a lot of dealers/techs didn't bother to read the specs for the new engine and tried to fill them with 15 quarts too....just like the 6.0 and 6.4

 

I call BS.

No way a 7.3 had a full sump of erl in it at change interval without checking it after every stoplight.

 

That's why you overfill 'em.
2 quarts to fill to 16 isn't bad after the last time I checked...which was when I changed it.
I view it as losing 1/2 quart on a normal sized engine. Hell, that mighta just been fillin' the filter.

 

I have the 2015.5 Chevy 2500 lifted with 35's LML Duramax. The 17 is going to be the L5P Duramax which is new and there have been complaints on forums so take that for what it's worth. But it's a hell of a lot more torque.

Maintenance is easy. Buy DEF at Walmart or Home Depot for $12 for 2.5 gal. I roughly use a gal per 1,000 miles. LML takes 10 qts of oil. Walmart sells 10 qt jugs of Rotella for approx $30 regular, $40 semi-synth, or $50 synthetic. Super easy to dump one jug in. Fuel filter was about 35k miles per the gauge. I buy AC Delco oil, air, fuel, cabin, and Allison filters on Amazon or Rock Auto.

My mileage dropped 1-2 mpg with the lift. Picked up 1 mpg with a tonneau cover so I average 16 now with a 50/50 mix of interstate and gridlock. Regen sucks mpg down to 10-11 and seems to stay on too long - upwards of an hour's worth of driving so that hurts the average. The Duramax is quiet (too quiet for me), burns clean, never smoked, and stepping into the power to pass is addictive!

 

Nice Truck! Any problems with death wobble on the Fords? It's a Big problem with Rams. Also, do any of the Fords have real leather? The Ram Limited and Longhorn are the only trims that are real leather.

 

With all this talk of 3500s and oceanliner sized engines, would it be sacralige to ask about the baby diesels in this thread?

Chevy has one in the Colorado and FCA has one in the 1500, Grand Cherokee, and I hear even the Wrangler soon. I test drove a Grand Cherokee with one and I was smitten even though I read the horror stories with the emissions crap. Test drove a gas Colorado and just hated the truck in general.

Not in the market for new so the F150 diesel coming soon is out.

 

Well, since this thread is going all kinds of different directions...

Bought a 2017 Chevy 2500HD a few months ago. Came across B20 Biodiesel the other day while coming home from the track. I never even knew it existed; this is my first diesel. Did a quick Google search at the station to make sure I was good, and I filled it up. Google searches yield a lot of really positive results. Anyone have experience (good or bad) running this stuff long-term?

Also, 'sup with fuel additives? Which ones, and how often?

 

Ford 6.0 is 15 quarts. Too many engines going in different directions in this thread

 

B

Biodiesel is served up at different levels/percentages.....5, 10, and yes, even 20. Biodiesel blend does not produce as much power as pure diesel so consequently, you will normally see less miles per gallon also. In addition to that, using bio will normally require more frequent oil and filter changes. And if I remember correctly, it is more prone to allowing algae growth in the fuel tank. I have a F350 dually with a 37 gallon tank and an aux. Tank on the bed (42 gal.) and I always fill up in town before a trip so that I....
1. Can buy my diesel fuel (almost 80 gallons) cheaper than on the interstate. Sometimes a 45 to 55¢/ gallon difference
2. I can buy pure diesel and not the biodiesel that is at almost every truck stop/RV lane. Lots of smaller stations I can't fit into as my truck/trailer combined length is almost 58'.

 

Stanadyne for me. Any cetane booster is what you want.

 

Apparently bio diesel has the most lubricity which is also something you want in a diesel which is another reason for the additives if not the most important. If you do a quick google search for diesel additives there’s a list of which ones are good and ones that actually reduce the lubricity of the fuel.

 

I've run bio diesel blends all the way up to pure B100 and it's a give or take. Modern diesel does not have the lube qualities that the older style did in the early 00's, a blend of 2-5% fixes that and lubes all the pumps and injectors with out having to use an additive so bonus.

Bio has a slightly lower energy density and therefore MAY deliver less power and MPG. However, bio has a higher cetane which means it burns easier than Dino diesel. If your vehicle was have trouble burning fuel completely this could solve the problem and mpg could stay the same or even go up.

Bio gels at higher temps and is really only a concern if you're running anything above B50 and traveling to below freezing climates. If it's a b20 I wouldn't worry until well below freezing and even then the fuel would be conditioned in that reason.

Bio diesel is usually cheaper because it's simpler to make and the feedstock is usually cheaper. Used oils are common but you'll also find virgin oils being used. Grape seed, palm, soybean, corn oil and vegetable oil all make good bio diesel. In the warmer months you'll see animal tallow/fat being used to make it but it gels at a higher point so it's usually a summer fuel. They all have their own color and smell to them too and when used in b100 form you get to know the characteristics of each.

Lastly the big myth of bio is it clogs your filters. What bio is, is an excellent solvent and some people use it as a standalone solvent in the shop. After the crud Dino leaves behind in he tank, lines, et al. the Bio comes along and cleans it all out and the filter does its job and catches it. So yes with extended use of b20 or higher you'll eventually see your filters clog faster but that's from the shit Dino left behind. The later in engine life you use bio the more crud there is to come out. After about 5-8k of running b100 in my truck the filters stayed just as clean as ever and I never had an issue. So if you want to keep your fuel system clean run the max Bio mix you can. The problem comes from people who have 100k+ on the vehicle (over 6,000 gal of fuel run) then switch to higher b-levels and the system starts getting cleaned in 50-100 gallons and they blame the Bio because cleaning happens so fast compared to the time it took to build up.

I've Run bio blends for well over 100k, and around 50k running straight B100. Only problem I had was the filters when I jumped right in and ran B100 (which cleared up) and I didn't pay attention to the weather and had B100 in the truck with the weather dropped into the teens.

 

See that is where life can be different depending on where you live. Diesel along the interstate is almost always cheaper than it is here in the DC close in suburbs. I hate leaving for track days without a full tank so I usually just pay the extra on that side, but on the way home, I fill up or top off on the way back from the track to save a few bucks. With that said, my 3.0 is a bit smaller than most of the diesels being discussed here, as is the 26 gallon fuel tank.