New house build necessities

It's the eco wiener version of a concrete block.

 

You do realize I'm not about spending money for the sake of it, unlike someone else here. I spend it where it's needed. If that means I never have to spend another dime on it...that's worth it to me.
I won't buy built-in obsolescence, but I will buy inexpensive, bound to be damaged/destroyed/lost...like sunglasses.
I will not "cheap out" on the roof over my head if I'm the one building it. Anyone that does so, imo, may as well live in a straw hut (stick house).
Just so ya know.

 

Got it. I don’t know what I was picturing in my head, but that wasn’t it.

 

I didn’t see where he was from my phone
Yeah skip the infloor heat

 

If you are married, do not skip the in floor heat. It costs almost nothing to add to the construction and the first chilly night or morning when your wife is stepping her delicate toes onto the nice warm floor, you will be a hero.

I know this as a proven fact.

 

Like Venom said, at least one media outlet in every room. Even better is one to each side of every room, so that cables never need to run across traffic areas. I recommend running 3/4" conduit (it can be the flexible "smurftube" if your local code allows) to the crawl space. garage or basement from each location in a home run.

Using conduit means you can replace cables if necessary over the life of the house.

Put a 1" conduit or 2-3 3/4" conduits (preferably metal) from the basement to the attic. This is for future use. Metal conduits can be used for power, networking, fiber cables, or whatever you need in the future to get runs from down below to up top. Cap the pipes in the attic so that insulation doesn't clog them.

In those conduits, pull at least 2 Cat5e and 1 RG-6 Quad Shield coax cable. Make the cable runs all the same (2x Cat5e + 1x RG-6QS), even if it's just a phone jack. Cable is relatively inexpensive, and having the cable in place will make changes/revisions much easier.

Home run all these locations/conduits to a single point in the house. Never daisy-chain this stuff.

Run RG-6 Quad Shield to the roof for antennas - Satellite, TV off air and FM. Minimum 4 lines. Run them back to the common connection point (below).

Ideally, there would be a place in the basement/garage for a board/cabinet which would hold the terminations of all those cables as well as the inside end of lines from the roof for TV/FM antennas, satellite antennas, and a Cat5e and RG-6Quad Shield from wherever the telephone land line and cable tv/internet terminates on the outside of the house. This gives you one place to have all your internet/TV/media connections, including satellite multi-room switches, cable modem/router/VOIP phone terminal adapter, Ethernet switch/POE switch. Put a quad outlet on its own circuit there, and a shelf for UPS to keep the network gear running through short power outages. If you install a generator/transfer switch, include this media circuit on the transfer switch panel. Although they make in-wall boxes for home central media connections, I haven't seen one yet that is large enough to be useful. Every one I've worked with I had to mount modems, routers, switches, etc. external to the box.

Like Venom said, add locations in ceilings where you plan to put access points for wireless networking, locations behind any planned TV locations, etc. It all works faster and better on wiring than through wireless. If you want a access point outside for the patio/yard, pre-wire a box and cables to the outside wall (there are access points made specifically for outdoor use.) Plan on using POE (power over Ethernet) to run all access points.

I'd do Cat5e for Ethernet, as Cat6 / Cat6a doesn't give you any advantage, unless you are trying to run 10 gigabit copper signals. 1 gigabit Ethernet runs perfectly well on Cat5e and is significantly less cost. If you want to put in 10 gigabit networking, use multi-mode fiber (it can be pulled into the same 3/4" tube as the other stuff at the same time.

See other posts about using Ubiquiti switches, Access Points, and Gateway. Top notch stuff. And that system gives you a single point of management and control over the network.

Consider home automation as an integrated system, rather than willy-nilly adding nest thermostats, various remote control switches etc. The advantages of a well-planned and integrated HA system will make life much more pleasant, and can help prevent/minimize loss when it's tied to smart time of day electric metering, CO and smoke detection, security system, and water cutoff valve, etc.

Speaking of security, plan the security system as part of the build, and pre-wire as much as you can before the drywall goes up. Like Internet, security on wires is more reliable and harder to bypass than wireless, and you won't need to be running around changing sensor batteries, either.

There are some good posts about home automation/integrated security and monitoring on here. There are several technologies, and several beebers sell/install the stuff, so you have access to some good advice.

 

Holy Lord. @Chaotic is gonna be coming for you for stealing his shtick.

 

Nah.

I use sentences, Capitalization, and paragraphs. I don't speak his language.

 

I didn’t read all of this, don’t want to add more stuff to the list of things I missed, so sorry if it’s been said...double the can lights you think you need on the first floor. Major PIA to add later...take it from the guy with only the ceiling fan lights in a large’ish living room.

 

It's called a shower. . I'd just tell my lab to get in and give him a shower, easy to clean too.

 

Motherfucker.

I do admit that my posts get long at times. However, they are (for the most part) laid out coherently and grammatically correct; while being laid out at 95 words per minute with no spell check.

Ass.

 

Great If this roughneck thing doesn't work out, you can always be someone's secretary.

 

In some countries that is the preferred method, especially in places where it gets really hot. I have a lot of coworkers from Australia that build their houses out of concrete like that.

Not to mention it is crazy sturdy if you live in places where tornados are possible.

 

If you use can lights, make sure there enclosed and rated for contact to insulation.
Seems 90% of the installers don't read when ordering or installing them.
Promise the insulators won't care.
Need to replace mine since there open and are a nice heat source into the house not to mention hotter than shit and possible fire hazard.

 

It's done all over northern Europe and Canada, too. I heard about it from a Canadian source while researching off-the-grid homes. Scoped it out, downloaded a shit-ton of info...architectural engineering specs, R values, block specs, etc. There's basically nothing you can't build with this stuff...and you don't need a hammer!

 

Well shit. That takes the fun out of it.

 

Can you throw LED bulbs in the existing cans? If so the temps they throw off will drop dramatically.

 

So how do you set doors (interior and exterior), windows, etc.? What is the roof framing?

 

a deep detached garage/workshop
lots of lights
a drain in case you wanted to wash/detail the cars/bikes inside
in ground bike lift in one stall
a car lift in the another
accessible air hose
lots of outlets
temperature controlled

the house, who cares, you'll be in the garage most of the time