Mountain bikes

Discussion in 'General' started by Rob P, Nov 25, 2016.

  1. omatter34

    omatter34 Well-Known Member

  2. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    Check all the frame pivot points they tend to get loose. Also ask when the last time the Lefty was serviced. Deduct $200 if never is the answer...lol.
     
  3. omatter34

    omatter34 Well-Known Member

    Has a standard design fox fork on it. Will get some more info tomorrow when I take a closer look.
     
  4. ekraft84

    ekraft84 Registered User

    This is the same bike I have. Love it. Putting a 1x11 setup on it now, along with upgrading components and wheels. I like that carbon bar you've got. I'm still running stock. Ha.
     
  5. used2Bfast

    used2Bfast Still healing

    Weighs 129oz on my scale. Was only $30 shipped off Ebay. New never used. Had a very tiny blem on it.
     
  6. ekraft84

    ekraft84 Registered User

    Remember what the stock one weighed? I was going to wait on that and the saddle/seat post until I weigh the bike after these latest mods.
     
  7. used2Bfast

    used2Bfast Still healing

    No. But I remember it and other components were surprisingly light after weighing them. I weighed the oem stem, and it was ONE gram lighter then the replacement (around 130gms). Some oem bars when looking at the tube thickness, is surprisingly thick. Not my oem bars tho.

    Oem saddle was even pretty light.

    I also used those Richey WCS neoprene grips to save about 50 grams.

    XT rear cog.

    ZTR Crest wheels run tubeless made the most diff. Even the oem Conty "Race" tires were actually the good Kevlar bead versions (weighed the same damn thing as what I put back on it).
     
  8. ekraft84

    ekraft84 Registered User

    I'm putting the same Crest wheels on, but swapping the Conty's for a tubeless Racing Ralph setup. Between that, the 1x and some fresh forks, I'm looking forward to trying it out.
     
  9. rk97

    rk97 Well-Known Member

    I want that. All of it.

    I'm interested in cycling, but my personal cycling guru is more invested than even the most hardcore people posting here. This is the type of setup he's trying to get me on. Basically he's telling me to buy a used top-of-the-line hardtail 29er from 2014 when the owner decides he wants a 2017 model. Anticipate the cost of fork service, and I'm set.

    My current ride is a 90's Trek 850. I am telling myself I can replace it when I break it. I'll still fix it, but I won't be upgrading it.
     
  10. ekraft84

    ekraft84 Registered User

    Latest upgrades finished for the most part, minus the saddle. Those wheels - like yours - are really nice.

    Wish it wasn't 12 degrees outside, currently.
     

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  11. rk97

    rk97 Well-Known Member

    My last reply to this thread was December, 2016.

    I rode the IMBA "epic ride" Mohican State Park 24.x mile trail system yesterday. On a rigid fat bike. Descending is definitely a jarring and bouncy affair. Climbing actually wasn't too bad. Gobs of traction, and as much as people want to make comments about the weight of the bike, it's honestly not much heavier than any alloy full suspension bike.

    Where it does feel heavy is in the rotating mass of the fat tires.

    I'm hoping to be in a position to buy a 'new' hardtail in the next 30 days. looking at 2-4 year old bikes. Probably 29ers, but I'll entertain 27.5 plus bikes as well.

    This would be used for racing, and trail shenanigans. I want whatever I buy to either be substantially different, or substantially better than the fat tire (Framed Minnesota 3.0).

    I do not have the budget to look at full suspension bikes. I'd rather pick up a higher-quality hardtail than a full squish with cheap suspension bits. Plus I'm more into XC riding than downhill.

    Assuming my budget is in the $1,000 range (remember, I'm looking at bikes 2-3 years old). I have a 20" frame on the fat bike. a 19" frame might suit me better for something that's more likely to be raced and jumped. I'm fine w/ alloy. Would upgrade wheels or fork before spending money on a carbon frame.

    Suggestions?
     
  12. mike-guy

    mike-guy Well-Known Member

    I just picked up my first real bike, 2018 diamondback sync’r. Actually got it in a deal for $950 shipped to my door. Also I’m up in Cleveland and heard about the race too late. We should ride some time if your local to me, trying to find people to go with. Welcome to rip my bike if we get together. It’s got 2.3in 27.7s but you can put a 2.6 on it supposedly
     
    rk97 likes this.
  13. TurboBlew

    TurboBlew Registers Abusers

    I dont know how the used market is by you but I have yet to see any "screaming" deals on used bikes.
    Just got a closeout FS Felt compulsion 27.5 for a few hundy more than your pricepoint. 6" travel & dropper post.
    Downside... comes 2x10 stock. Upside rear derailleur is xtr. Shimano deore brakes. Added a 12 speed cog for $65 and I dropped
    the granny front sprocket & derailleur
    Its not as fast as my 29er but climbs alot nicer. Its got 2.4 wide tires.
     
  14. I went from a 29er hardtail cannondale trail 4 to a FS specialized carbon Comp. I got fast on the cannondale but had to replace nearly every part on it because I was beating it up on the rocks here . I was also faster on it briefly until I got used to the fs bike

    Your budget is more than a trail 4 but I’d recommend it if you are looking to get your feet wet until you decide to either upgrade or not ride as much. It was a solid bike for me
     
  15. rk97

    rk97 Well-Known Member

    I don’t mind 2x drive trains. I actually kind of like them, because i can go faster on gravel races without owning a gravel bike.

    $1k is my preferred limit. I could justify more for a good deal, but only if it’s a great bike.

    I’m find spending $1600 on a 2017 bike that cost $2700 the year before. I won’t spend $1200 on someone’s 3 yr old bike they paid $1600 for.

    27.5+ versus 29” wheels has been a mental debate.

    On one hand, i am used to fat tires, and could possibly sell my fat bike if i run 27.5x3” tires.

    On the other hand, 29” wheels will be quicker, and more different than my current fat bike (which would likely get 4.8 tires if i had a 29er...)
     
  16. brex

    brex Well-Known Member

    My Stumpjumper is a boost 29/6 Fattie. Came with the 29" wheels, they roll nice and fast. However, since swapping to the 6 Fattie wheelset, the 29s have been gathering dust in the garage. I am just using 2.8 tires rather than 3.0 on 40mm rims, and the difference in traction and bashing over rocks is amazing. Once I got used to them and found the optimal tire pressure, I have set personal bests on all my usual haunts. I really dig them.
     
    bacolmm likes this.
  17. RichB

    RichB Well-Known Member

    Depends on usage, but if racing is involved then go 29. The catch is the current updated geo even for 29 hardtails is recent, more recent than 3 years ago.

    Sizing varies too much between brands to compare, a large in one can be XL in another. You need to use hard numbers from the geo chart to know what you have and what might work on a new frame, with some wiggle room given sizing increments.
     
  18. mike-guy

    mike-guy Well-Known Member

    I read a lot up on the plus size tires and I opted against it. If you look at the trends of even the past few years companies are already making them smaller. Went from 40mm rims with 3in tires to 35mm rims and 2.8 in tires. Between the inconsistency and reading about sidewall blowouts and how bouncy they can be I just went with a normal size 27.5. Supposedly they make 2.6in tires that will fit my 29mm rims so I may give that a try.
     
  19. Greg S

    Greg S Well-Known Member

    Brand new salsa timberjack 29er NX1 $999
     
  20. Mblashfield

    Mblashfield Well-Known Member

    Salsa Beargrease carbon fatty. So light I sold all other mountain bikes. These are badass!
     

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