See my edit, above on the clausing 5900, same lathe i got.....spindle is 1.125.......big enuff for what i needed (specific part), but not big. Can work around it if needed, but unsure if fits the bill for you.
Yeah, i just bought it w/ paypal..... j/k says something like "Spare gearbox" which should mean the elusive metric gears
he got the milling attachment too, which imho......i would rather buy a bridgeport than monkey w/ the attachment, haha But, at least you could do some basic milling, in a pinch
Yeah, the bore looks small, but I don't think I can have everything. I haven't seen a single smaller-than-car-size lathe with a 2" bore at all, let alone one for around 2k. But I'll definitely be careful to check everything and make sure there's no wiggle and whatnot.
Make sure the rpm/speed-handle works....they are bad hydrolic design and problematic.....make sure you can turn the lever/change the speed.....and the lever remains in the position you put it in....if it moves back to its start position on its own, problems already. Also, the latern tool-post is antique unusable.....start shopping for tool post/holders
And check for smoke... With knurling tools you can make footpegs. I know that you like to (or used to, when you pushed) grind them down in turn 2. Or on your way to the gravel in turn 2.
That clausing is a nice well tooled and capable lathe at a pretty decent and reasonable price. I'd buy it if you can.
Even has original 1960's/70's paint, and paint looks excellent condition......no spraybomb cover-up I agree.....if that machine checks out, is not wornout + all the accessories.....smoking deal imho From my neck of the woods, I could clean that thing up and make some $
@pscook and I were talking about this last night actually - what's an acceptable amount of slop to have in the various controls, so I know how to evaluate the condition of those parts?
My main concern would be the bed-ways/saddle.........if bad, no deal. 2nd concern, speed dial....which is repairable. Slop in the handles, backlash? ehhh. you can work around it. Also there is a guy on ebay who sells repro brass cross-nuts, etc. When i got my 5900 I bought the 2 new nuts from him, just to tighten it up a bit. Also, do oil change on spindle and saddle. Do hydraulic fluid maintenance on speed lever too. The paint leads me to believe this lathe was not used in parts-production. Probably just a jobber lathe. Which is good. Less wear. It looks like it has the later fiberglass door on it, if so, later model = less years on machine. Clausing still supports this machine w/ NOS, and will give you blueprints/schematics on the parts they no longer have. MAKE sure you buy a 10-pack of sheer pins from clausing ASAP. You will need them.....they sheer VERY easy.....but they designed to, so you cant crash/choke/bind/overload this lathe. That's a good thing. 10 pin pack is like $20 shipped. Have them on hand.
Chris, I had basically the same lathe as the Rutland. Most manufactured in Taiwan and badged by the importer. Here is a link to lots of info on them http://www.lathes.co.uk/taiwan/ For the one I had, I used Grizzly parts to fix what I needed as they are basically the same design once you find the corresponding model. It worked well but if you start to do larger cuts and bigger projects or want to tighter tolerance, that Clausing is going to serve you better.
The one thing better about the 5900 than the SB10, is the chuck is keyed, so you can run it full speed in reverse, and not worry about the chuck coming off and bouncing across the shop, lol Being able to thread in reverse (upside down cutting tool) has it's advantages, sometimes.