Bought a bike that is slightly above my mechanical skills. Heard the bike run yesterday, but by the time I got home (8 hours later) belly pan was full of fuel, along with the carb and the cylinder head from what I can see with the flashlight. I was able to disconnect the fuel line to the carb with the issue and plug the line (petcock has been removed, so no way to turn off the gas), and took a cloth and soaked up what fuel I could reach in the head. When we did get the bike started earlier yesterday, the plugs were fouled, and I'm guessing this has something to do with it? New plugs and it fired right up. Also, I'm told I have a "fuel injecting system" inline between the carbs and the fuel tank (pics included). Since they have no electronics attached to them, I'm guessing they work through the carb itself. I'm looking for places to start and a basic explanation of the FI system if anyone's familiar with them. Pics attached
Paging Dustin to the courtesy phone! Looks like you have a stuck float valve. No big deal to fix it pull the carbs off and check. Try google if you are confused.
The pictures are very dark and unclear, but it looks like a vacuum fuel pump. You probably have float level issues if it's loading up the head with fuel, either the floats are sticking or they are improperly adjusted. After you solve this, make sure to change the oil, fuel is in it.
You have bad flots needles. That's pretty common. Those are your fuel pumps. Not injectors. I can't tell from the pics but those appear to be vacuum operated meaning the motor has to be turning over for them to work. Regardless, you need to turn the motor over and blow the fuel out of the engine before trying to start so you don't hydro lock the engine. I'd replace float needles, needle seats, and the pumps and start fresh IMO.
Damnit guys! I was hoping there was a screw I could turn to fix it . OK, so it sounds like it's fairly common and nothing too detrimental to the motor. Yes, it's an SV650. Will start the Google search
Stock SV's have one Vacuum operated pump that feed carbs when its running. Your bike appears to be setup with 2 pumps(one for each carb) zip tied together. The fuel tank also has a vacuum operated petcock that only allows fuel to flow when the bike is running. Previous owner may have changed this or you have a leaking petcock that is allowing the fuel to weep past when the bike is not running. Rebuild or replace the petcock. I usually install a manual valve in the fuel line so I can turn it off to prevent this from happening.
That was going to be my next question, if this would hinder anything to install a manual valve so I can turn it off at will.
New pics in the daylight. I'm guessing I will need to replace the needles with the same size that's there, as the bike used to be a fantastic bike that ran incredibly well (with an exceptional rider)
I have had 2 sets of FCR's on different bikes and on both sets the floats will stick every now and again...I think they are know for this. I would say a shutoff is a must have with FCR's
Might be able to clean the needle valve but replacement is easy. Manual valve is a good idea. Looks like a nicely set up SV. Picture of needle valve: http://motostrangers.ru/wordpress/w...07_16_z+keihin_fcr_carb_tech+float_needle.jpg
What bike is that, and why does someone think it needs two of those pumps? A single one can easily support 85hp +. I don't bother with a manual shutoff valve for my FCRs but I do have a quick disconnect between the tank and pump so I can stop the flow there.
This was Santiago Villa's SV, only been on the track a handful of track days over the last few years. Bike sits as I purchased because even if it's not set up ideal, it's way better than what I would know to do. I am welcome to all advice, which is why I'm here. So you think I can remove the dual pumps, lines, etc, what about removing one pump that leads to the carb with stuck float, and just run the one pump I know works (Robby suggested I start with new pumps to be safe)
The diaphragm in the vacuum operated fuel pump can also be damaged, allowing fuel to leak through the diaphragm and into the engine. Just another thing to check out.
Yes, it's been suggested to replace the pumps, which is likely what I'll do just to be sure. I suppose rebuilding the pumps would be cheaper and would give me some experience with them.
Depending on the model of pump, they'll flow fuel even new out of the crate and working 100% depending on their orientation, you can't count on them as a flow check. That said, they are cheap to rebuild and cheap enough to buy new that I would skip the rebuild and go new.
Based on Kurlon's post, would it make sense to put the quick disconnect or manual shut off valve between the pump and the carb, or is the amount of fuel in the pumps not enough to worry about if they were to leak?
I went between the tank and pump as it makes for easy tank removal. I also have four bowls fed off one pump so any residual in the line (barely any in the pump itself) has a lot of room to fill before it becomes a problem. You also have to figure that once the tank is disconnected, you don't have the bulk of the fuel load sitting above the bowls so gravity won't be trying to hard to migrate what's left in the system into your motor.
