07 GSXR 1000 valve clearance check

Get yourself another torque wrench that reads in inch/pounds rather than foot/pounds.
Overdoing the torque on the cams can lead to very bad things happening.

 

Gap, that's why I have three different torque wrenches. Good investments considering the potential consequences.

 

HOLY SHIT! you better buy some heli coils! 2 FOOT tq wrench?? good god man!! what are you planning on doing...using a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter AND a 3/8"s to 1/4" adapter on top of that???

I bet that thing is barely within 10% accuracy and worse below say 25 FOOT lbs.... you should be using a 1/4" drive no longer than 6" tq wrench made for INCH lbs... keep the Tq @10nM or 8ft/lbs or 96in/lbs.

That 2 FOOT tq wrench is only good for maybe motor mounts, swingarm pivot and beating the shit out of yourself for not just paying someone $200 and saving yourself 10 hours of internet questions and 16 hours of doing it yourself...i mean if you have a "BIG degree" isnt your time worth more???

*please dont take the sarcasm personally but some of your posts really crack me up.... i guess it'd be like me posting on a SAP forum about stuff??

 

Isn't the torque on those bolts 7.4 ft lbs or something? 90 in lbs.

You need to borrow or buy a 1/4 inch torque wrench that reads in inch pounds or newton meters.

Work your way around the caps , don't tighten one side then the other. I watched a racer break his cam caps one time because he didn't tighten evenly. Then you have to buy a whole new head.

It's important you get the torque right because it will affect the lash.

 

Just use German torque.
Gutten Tight!

 

Or "DOD Tight!"

Tighten `em up `till they start to strip. Then back off a quarter turn.

 

Back when the YZF450 first came out, they had a problem with cams galling in the journals. 1ft/lb of tq made the difference! Tdub

 

Yeah, it's 7 ft.lbs. / 10 nm.

And I'm working my way around the caps alright. I'm talking 1/4 turns at a time. It's taken me 3 hrs. to get the journals down.

Taking a break....Odouls run...

 

O'Douls... just like eating out your cousin. It tastes the same, but... it's just wrong.

 

yeah... Id rather break a cam cap bolt then drink odouls...lol

 

Not so lonely that the only place I have to go for help is the internet.

I cannot wait until the:
1. "I need an engine because I fucked mine up" thread
2. "Should I buy this engine/Is this a good deal" thread
3. "How do I change my engine" thread, bolt by bolt.
4. "It won't start/idle/CEL on" thread.
5. "Should it make this sound" thread.
6. "Does it seem like it is down on power" thread.

There was mention of a torque wrench. Please forward me the link to the "What torque wrench should I buy thread" as I did not see it.

 

Dude, btfo aren't there like 8,788 threads you can bully people in under "The Dungeon" link? He is at least asking tech question in the "Tech" section....

 

Yeah, what he said.

'Fegan has to have 0 friends in his life. Unless he counts himself.

 

So, cams are in.
Motor spins nice and smooth.
I spin it a few times, re-check the clearances and the exhausts still feel .178. 'Feel' as in they glide right in, with just a little drag, I'm not forcing the feeler in...

I put 155's in all the exhausts except for a single 160.
Shim difference is .07 from the original to the new shims.

So, .178(measured clearance) + .07(change in shim size)= .248. Spec range is .18-.28mm. But I'm not getting .248. I don't think I could get .203 without forcing the feeler in.

Maybe my 'feel' is a little different now than when I first checked them.

I'm not sweatin' it. I feel as if I can do the process again in no time.

And no, I didn't put the original shims back in...that's the lst thing that came to mind too.

ODOULS FTMFW!!!

 

When everything settles a little your measurements will grow a little.

 

But lonely enough to bully a novice on a tech forum.

If you can't help, STFU. Nobody is amused by your arrogance. Except you. Tool.

 

OMG now I am a bully, what is this elementary school?

And you can go pound sand RM you have always been a douche in my book. Joe know it all that thinks nothing goes in the motorcycle world unless it happens in your shop.

I wont bully this thread again.

 

Super. You are so NOT helpful.

At least I try to help users. I have dozens of happy customers. Lots of championships. Helping guys drives my business, and they usually become loyal customers.

You feel good because you put people down, you're an insecure troll. I win races, my motorcycles are among the top five in speed traps in the AMA, and that's what drives my business. If putting people down drove success, you would be SO successful.

If you'd like to compare the results (business and championships)of being helpful and nice versus the results of being an asshole, I'd be happy to oblige. By the way, you'd be the asshole.

Stop trying to "help" and just introduce yourself as an antagonist and a thread troll. We'd have much more fun. You'd still look like a cock.

I'll happily reveal my identity, unlike you. My name is Rick Matheny.I've been involved with WERA since 1982. I live near Road Atlanta. You can call me at 706-658-0368. I'm proud of the help I provide on this forum. You conceal your identity and are an internet bully. Most everyone in WERA knows me, and I might me overstepping my authority here, but they respect me. Who the fuck are you?

Rick

 

Thank you.

 

Todays question:

As far as the actually feeler gauge goes: I know this comes with experience. Everybody has their 'own' feel to a certain extent.
I was told by a local dragrace shop owner that he determines 'his feel' by trying a feeler gauge that won't go in, then goes to the next size down. For example, if a .203 won't go in and the next size is a .178 and it goes in, then that's the one.
He doesn't seem to be too concerned with the amount of drag on the gauge, as long as it goes in without binding or forcing.

Is that a fairly accurate way to gauge feel?