Yes do it by go-no go. Stay away from the metric number. Use the SAE measurement as it's easier and you should have one for each .001". If a .007 goes and a .008 doesn't then you have .007 clearance. No need to measure lash to the ten thousandth.
Update, it's all good. Bought an 11", 1/4" drive, in/lb torque wrench to do the cam journals. Exhausts are measuring in the middle of the spec range at .229mm, except for one and it's one gauge/size down at .203. But the actual clearance could be .220, .215...So, I guess I'll leave it instead of breaking it down again just to change one shim? Right? Agree? Exhaust are still at .127, which is the middle of the spec range. I got a new cam chain tensioner gasket, but not a new valve cover gasket. It 'looks' fine, not brittle or hard...do yas think it will be ok for a few thousand ez street miles next year? I'm anxious to fire this 'frigger up tonight.
go-no go sounds good. i've heard the feel you're lookin' for is like sticking' the gauge into a phone book...that's the drag you want. it can happen that you stick the gauge into the lash and open up the gap...that's why a feel for drag is important to know. if also helps if your gauges aren't folded, spindled or mutilated. as a side, there's been the thread about using a micrometer or caliper for measuring shims. well, what's the difference there if your feel for feelers sucks? any accuracy is moot if ya can't use the feeler to begin with.
I'm on the fence about changing the single exhaust valve that is reading .203. The rest are .229. Since there is no feeler size between .203 and .229, the clearance could actually be .215,.220, .225, etc.. which would be really close to the rest of the exhausts at .229. I'm ready to put the valve cover, throttle bodies, etc. back on. But would like to know what you guys would do. Change it out or leave it alone? Remember, it's a street bike.
use thousandths not metric. It makes it so much easier in the long run Unless you are trying to wring the last 1/8 hp out of the motor, one valve being off slightly is no big deal. If it were my motor I would put ALL the exhaust as loose as possible and still in spec, and the intakes to the tight side.
AMEN! I have no dog in your guys fight (not sure ive been blasted by kfegan yet?) but spot on Rick. I get shit often too and even accused of using an "alias" aka ed who? (when ive used since late 90's when folks seeing my logo, EDR, thought the R was a Z and called shop looking for Ed, owner of ED'z performance.so the name edwho? came about) I would suggest that like Rick says, keep the tech section on topic..yeah i know my sense of humor/sarcasm is not best at times either..but honestly i really like this section of the WERA forum and its really the only one i check/try to contribute to 90% of the time. Again, well put Rick. Good luck to the OP with their v/c job.
honestly your over thinking things man..take a breath and for god sakes get some better beer Honestly if all ex are now going thru with SOME resistance at .23mm (stop going 3 decimal points) and one is good with .20mm then its ok! your not trying to win a WSS race or anything and your well within the range (at least imo) of what works well on that bike. You can reuse the oem valve cover gasket easily...might put a SMALL amount of suzukibond, yamabond, threebond, rtv (again dont over think..just use a good sealant) and a LITTLE on the half moons on the head (cut outs for the cam journals). Be sure to watch how you route your coil wires too. We have seen a few G1k's have small misfires when they are squished against valve cover bolts/airbox bottom...typically when guys are running piggyback coil plugs (double the harness) on a quick shifter or such. Just a suggestion. Good luck.
Excellent. That's exactly what I was wanting to hear. As far as the Odouls goes, man I'm a ex-alckie. Seriously though. I hate saying 'recovering' because I have been cured and will never drink again. Fact. 4yrs. sober this January. :up: and it's not like I drink a 12pack of the stuff a day. During the summer, I love the taste of an ice cold beer. Miss the taste, not the 'buzz' and the probs that came with it. But this time of year, I may drink a 12 pack every 2-3 wks. When I'm in the garage for 12hrs, I may go on a binge and drink (2) of the Amber/Dark Odouls in a single day.
its all good. I cant drink more than 1 or 2 beers without falling down...im the opposite...extreme lightweight...but if anyone wants to go toe to toe on caffiene drinks...im game. Enjoy the bike.
Happy New Year ya drunks!! Time to get up... Question: I'm putting new sparkplugs in that I got from the Indy Dealer show back in Feb. The gap on them is .6mm. Service manual says gap should be .8-.9mm. Manual says do not adjust gap. Can I use the new plugs even though they're at .6mm gap? The Autolite package says replacement for NGK CR9E, CR9EI. The old plugs looked great btw, with 19K miles.
Iv'e never had much luck w/autolites,O'Reily's is the cheapest place iv'e seen for ngk plugs,you may need the ngk part # tho,readily available on the net.And yes i gap em.
Yeah, they were free. Got several sets for the 1000 and 600's, I may as well try them. Gapping the autolites now. Not sure why the manual says not to gap the plugs? As if to say, if they're not gapped right out of the box, throw them away and try another plug? WTH?
IIRC, the manual says not to gap USED plugs, i.e. don't just bend the field electrode to reduce the gap back to spec.
I swear my bike (gsxr750k6) runs better with the regular CR9E's than the iridiums. Idles better, throttle response is better. YMMV
yeah dude, stay away from autolite...no good for your bike. get some NGK cr9ek.. hell, for a street bike, go with the cr9e, its the single electrode...the "k" indicates a dual electrode. the cr9e is about 1/2 price.
I'll change the plugs out. And yes, the autolites are the correct plug. I triple checked before I put them in.