Yamaha MT/FZ07 Racers: (NOT R7)

I say not R7 because I dont know if the shit interchanges or not.

I am re-building an mt/fz07 and im not sure what body it has as its been fixed multiple times.

My customer will want nice stuff, (think Broome) so whats the hot setup on these for bodywork? I heard Andy is out of the game and I know he used to make cool shit.

So bodywork-Sharkskinz?

Front end is stock tubes with internals. Is the setup R6 or R1swap?

Has rear link and a shock already.

Engine is stock and maybe blown so we are freshening it. Are there weak points? Good SS build? We aint spending $10k on the engine yet as rider is still learning.

Are there certain FZ suppliers?

 

@regularguy

 

Sharkskinz is probably your best bet for bodywork unless you want to do something thats a bit more work but looks awesome. Mine is part R6/R7 and some FZ-07 all from Sharkskinz.

Transmission needs backcut gears for sure. Matt Spicer at Robem Engineering is a great source for all things FZ related. He built my motor last year and its fantastic. He also believes the aRacer electronics is best for these so we installed the ecu and quickshifter.

My forks are stock with Ktech internals and have no issues with them. Ive heard the R6 is the way to go if you switch the front end but also have heard they can be hard to set up because they are stiffer than the stock forks so they overpower the frame and twist it all out of shape. I dont know about this since I never switched the forks.

 

Chris Parrish bodywork, it's better than Sharkskinz

 

I didnt realize Chris was doing FZ stuff, I thought is was all SV and now the R7. He doesnt show the FZ on his website.

 

Did you look at Flexi Glass?
http://flexi-glass.com/yamaha.php

 

I know the forum folks have recommended an R6 throttle tube swap. Not sure what exactly was wrong with stock but the 2015 I had for a few years had it and I really liked the smooth power delivery it provided. I rode my buddy’s stock one back to back and it didn’t feel as evenly responsive. This was with an air filter upgrade and full Yosh with a Bazazz unit which seemed to all adhere to the KISS method pretty well.

I know that the subframe ends up modded or cut on most all of the track builds I’ve seen in person. I never felt comfortable fusing an R6 front end on. I think as was mentioned previously, internals should be enough to get it close without having to play engineer.

I got spoiled with having a gear indicator and they are known to gum up with dust at the sensor so while you are in there be sure to clean it.

 

Head gasket- use a stock one (NOT Cometic) and use all new bolts. The bolts are one time use. We did this and have had no head gasket problems. The transmission- undercut and polish 4th and 5th gear at a minimum, and shim it. I think most people's transmission problems are related to poor shift linkage setup and crummy quick shifter setup. It needs a positive shift from 4th to 5th.

I've never seen a bike at the MA level with stock front end but I don't think that means you can't go fast on it. Needs triples for sure to get the desired offset. Attack, AP or Robem triples. The Robem is nice because it has an 11 mm drop which gets you the desired front ride height.

Parrish is making R7 bodywork but I don't think he has a tank cover yet. So you may need a sharkskinz FZ tank cover as the R7 one is different.

What rear link are you on? The geometry of the AP link is good, but they have been known to break with catastrophic consequences.

All of this shit is interchangeable with the R7.

I would NOT cut the rear subframe. Take a long look at it in the shop- it affects frame stiffness significantly even if you weld up a plate to keep the tubes together at the rear. I never rode one with a cut subframe, but Kaleb swore he could tell the difference.

If you're mapping it for MGP be careful. It's close to pump gas, but the specific gravity is slightly different so your air / fuel ratio needs to be slightly different. I think alot of guys were running these bikes very lean which is what lead to many of the engine failures. Stock motor shouldn't matter much.

I know you said you're not building it, but get a set of web cams and drop them in. You probably have to send the head out anyway, so have KWS port it and do the valve job, you should end up around 83 HP, maybe a little more if you bore the TB's.

 

When we get the chassis and bike setup how we want we are prob gonna get a V&H head since we have a good relationship with them already.

thanks for all the other info. Gonna hit up robem for triples

 

Also the HordPower airbox is the best return on investment you can make HP wise. If you're really cheap, you can cut the stock air runner to 90mm or so and jam a Weber velocity stack in there and get about 70% of the way there, but the Hord is still significantly better.

 

We raced the FZ for 5 years and never had a stock transmission issue. If youre in there may as well do the upgrade.

We raced it with AK20s in the stock forks and Robem Triples. The Triples are the key.

 

What Gino said...

 

Damn Yamaha. Still cant make a transmission that doesnt need work to shift smooth and stay in gear. What did they do.....have a boat load of FZR trannys laying around go ...meh just use these.

 

Lots of people making good power with the V&H head. Hayden Schutlz is one.

 

In Yamaha's defense, the bike wasn't designed to be raced, and have a 30% HP bump. It was designed to be loaded 10 feet high with boxes of cheap Chinese goods and still be able to do a U-turn between 2 donkeys on the streets of Mumbai.

Now, with them marketing the R7 as a supersport, they have no excuse. I'd be curious to know if the newer bikes are having the same issues. Ours is from 2016.

 

Hordpower, small Web cams (using stock springs and 10,400 rev limit), Zoran-bored TBs, ported head (my own), 100 oct 4% oxygenated fuel, and stock bottom end: 92 corrected SAE HP (KWS dyno). I have the aRacer Super 2 ecu, AF1, and quick shifter. I'm told parts for the Hordpower are on back order from Yamaha, and I know the wait at Web is couple/several months for cams. Many motor parts are on backorder from Yamaha. I waited months for head and case bolts earlier this year (both single use torque to yield).

I would avoid the aRacer ecu. Spicer knows how to work with them but he is very busy; was too busy to accommodate me over a three month period pre-season. I couldn't find anyone else familiar with the aRacer ecu software on the east coast after making inquiries here and elsewhere. The fuel maps work primarily off of intake air pressure rather than throttle position with which most tuners are comfortable. There is virtually no english-language support from aRacer (there is a FB group but no one there really understands the software, so basic questions go unanswered unless you're running a Grom and using the autotune function) and emails to aRacer HQ go unanswered.

The R7 slipper clutch will fit and I was able to get parts over the winter after a 4-6 week wait, otherwise you'll want a Suter or Yoyodyne.

 

Yup, they my dudes for the last 4 years with cylinder heads.

have you seen the race shop there?? OMG

 

They should have anticipated that. Because 'Merica!

Its what we do.

 

I have few left over parts for FZ07 if somebody needs.
Tank cover (ap), brand new gauge and set off stock cams.

 

Price? Shipped to 32505