Toy Hauler Vs. Enclosed Trailer with pop out

Dunno if he bothers reading this forum much, but I do know someone towing with a modern Raptor. He seemed to like it, I think he was pulling a setup 6x12?

 

IntechRV Flyer Explore is what we have. Love it. Simple, built very well, and comfy. Hauls everything we need it to easily, tows easy, very practical. We get at least 2-3 people every weekend asking to check it out.

https://www.intechrv.com/explore.php

 

Very cool. Can you use the tent without unloading the box? Price range for these?

 

Guess that would depend on all what you had inside. But yes. Pricing can be all over the place depending on what options or if new or used. But you can figure north of 10k for all options

 

These are really cool and I like the idea... wish they had a bigger option. They’re expensive for what I would need it for... I think the value is there but i wouldn’t see myself using it to its full off-road, rigid, off grid abilities.



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I keep coming back to this.

$8k for a 7x16, insulted with AC. Would just need some shelves and a bed.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/160700267425


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Don't even worry about using it off road...it's a camper that also does enclosed trailer duty in style.

 

A few points worth noting:
1.) There’s a LOT of junk rolling out of GA plants, under a bunch of various brands, but, under the same couple umbrella companies.
2.) That has leaf spring axles and you want torsion axles. Your back, tow vehicle, and cargo will thank you.
3.) That has bias-ply tires. I’d have to buy one without wheels and tires and bring my own. You want radials, at a minimum. Maxxis M8008 are the preferred 15” option, because of their reliability. I’ve never seen any trailer brand or dealer sell them.
4.) You want at least one spare, no matter what.
5.) Make sure you DO NOT purchase online. Go there and crawl all over the thing, scrutinizing every inch of it. If you’re satisfied, then, make your purchase. However, there probably won’t be a torsion axle version available to purchase, in inventory.

 

That's way too expensive for a steel trailer whose only real feature of any value is the AC.

If you're gonna be adding shelves and fold-up(?) bed(s), you don't need a finished interior to ruin with holes drilled through the sheet metal. And trust me, those walls are just gonna get dented, scarred and ugly...stick with plain ol' 3/8" plywood and paint it.

I saw no mention of insulation in the description...none. You want it in the ceiling at a minimum.

The electrical distribution box/breaker panel looks like something you'd find in a residential unit...overkill in a trailer whose only power requirements are for a couple 4' lights, a dome light (likely 12v only) and the AC.

Tire brand is important and 205 bias plys are kinda skimpy for a 7000# GVWR trailer. Prolly "ChinaBombs", so called for being made in China and having a reputation for disintegrating and wiping out the fenders, etc.

When you go to check it out in person, turn a water hose on it and try to make the roof leak and anywhere else that the exterior skin has been perforated, like the awning. Jack the pitch level of the trailer so water has the opportunity to run forward and backward, getting into wherever it can. Absolutely soak the base of the AC unit and all seams, especially corners.
If it leaks, walk. I don't care if it's just one drop that you find...the rest of the water is behind that finished interior, rotting the 3/8" plywood and, ultimately, the floor.

All day long, if there's nothing wrong with it and it has good tires, a comparable base trailer with a roof vent and side door is ~$3250.

Yeah, the "coin" rubber floor is nice. DIY
Tiedowns are nice but are they thru-bolted with backing plates or, at least, fender washers? Again, DIY with PitBull TRS.
The side vents are nice. Do they leak?
The awning is manual...nothing special about it. Is that square-cornered side door gonna slice the awning apart when it's opened and closed? Just get ya an EzUp or two and put 'em wherever you need/want.

If you're okay with what you find, start with a low but reasonable offer, like $4250...I would not go beyond $5K/Tax/Title/Tag. The value isn't there.

If this had been an all aluminum trailer with a proper 110v trailer electrical system, insulation and good tires, yeah, $8K out the door...but it's not.

 

Got a link? All I’m finding in base, quality aluminum trailers, in 16’, start at $10K. Then, I have to drive 3 states away to grab one in stock. Dealerships are like broken records; “We can order it.”. If Amazon would sell me a trailer and UPS deliver it, I’d order it myself.

Great points in your post.

 

Check out www.trailernation.com. They are a distributor for Pace and can build anything you want at a fair price. I agree with the others. You can do much better than what’s in that pic.. get torsion axles. (Dexter)..and radials at the bare minimum.

 

No, I was guesstimating based on current prices of equipment, what I paid for my alu trailer 15 years ago and what I saw on the market a few years ago. Putting more thought into it, $10K sounds more real...that's frickin' nuts!

 

I bought a Featherlite in 2007 for $7K. In 2013, that same spec trailer was $11K. Instead, I bought an Elkhart-built trailer (~$7K) and knew I’d made a mistake 1/4mi out of the dealership. Thankfully, prices have stabilized some and the same Featherlite I was previously looking at is ~$11K, these days. I’m probably going to just bite the bullet, buy it, and finance the thing. Pulling a shitty trailer is not enjoyable.

 

Man! Some really great info added in here. I appreciate those of you that took the time to drop some knowledge for us!

 

Yeah, when a thread stays on-track ( ), one finds there are some really intelligent people on this board. The diversity of knowledge is why I keep coming back. Props to all!

 

Featherlite? Yeah, they're ritzy, for sure. Prolly well worth it, too...like ATC.

 

I’d actually put them above ATC, inTech, and others, excluding Sundowner. Why? If you look at a Featherlite’s top rail, bottom rail, wall studs, and rear door frame, you’ll see it’s all made up of welded, aluminum extrusions, which are incredibly strong yet light. All their joints are overlapping and have lengthy welds, whereas others are butt-jointed tubes. No other trailer has the same strength. If you see one of their stock or horse trailers, step inside and have a look at the construction, as they’re typically not sheeted inside. Their side doors are framed and sheeted, just like a wall. My current trailer door is aluminum-sheathed foam. When most trailers are sheeted in .030” sheeting and upgradable to .040” or .045”, Featherlite starts at .045” and upgrades to .063”, I think it is. Lastly, they’re the only manufacturer offering a cable-free, torsion spring rear door on a standard-height, enclosed trailer. . The owner of my current trailer manufacturer assured me, during the ordering process, they could do the same. One of his engineers called my dealer saying there was no way they could and he had no idea how Featherlite had that much strength in the rear rail to do it. Extrusions. There IS a difference and I’m going back.

 

Given Featherlite is predominately a horse trailer company, they have to be strong. Imagine a number of one ton animals stompin' around inside your average toy hauler while goin' down the road. Horses ain't no joke, I bet they could destroy a car hauler, too.
Dammit, now you got me thinkin' about one.

 

Have an 8.5 x 20 (had a 7 x16 before) mostly just travel by myself.

Pros and Cons of the larger trailer:
Pros:

• more space - like a lot more space - was always cramped and hitting things in the 7 x 16; in the 8.5 x20, can walk around in there without a problem full loaded (2.5 bikes, two sets of stands, two canopies, three generators ect).
• no compromises on what to bring - everything comes.
• no playing "Tetris" with gear, bikes ect
• Torsion axles - worth it
• 12 inch memory foam queen size mattress and bed up front (always stays down) - in the 7x16; you could do it, but you're dropping and lifting the bed back up and and tying it down (the frame is bungeed to the floor and I run two bungee cords to secure the mattress in the 8.5 x 20)
• AC and insulation - gift from the gods on hot days
• Loading and unloading takes less time
• Build quality - 8.5 x 20 is a Haulmark; 7x16 was random GA trailer
• Can sleep in the trailer fully loaded without moving anything - just open the door and crawl into bed (especially helpful when you arrive late night or its raining)

Cons:

• Heavier - a lot heavier (although this could be mitigated by getting aluminium) both were steel - pulling the 7x16 you never knew it was back there - lost the brakes on 3 out of 4 wheels on the way down to Barber with 4 bikes in the 7 x 16 - the truck didnt even notice - but the hub did on the one wheel with brakes and blew - didn't find out the brakes were gone until I took it in for service when I got back) - with the 8.5 x 20 you feel it all around - stops take longer - I travel with a heat gun and shoot the tires and wheels everytime I stop just to keep an eye on everything.
• Worse gas mileage - the extra acreage up front creates a bunch more wind resistance which you really notice above 70 mph
• Tight roads or construction zones - the extra foot of interior space is really noticeable on the exterior (even though the wheels are basically tracking in the same spots
• Harder to see around when towing

Regardless of size, I don't think I'll ever go without AC again, and probably the best thing I did with the 8.5 x 20 was put indoor/outdoor carpet on the walls - serves multiple functions - no painting (and worrying about marks on said paint) - but mark the studs on top first so you know where to drill to wall mount; it adds an extra layer of insulation (both heat and sound - the sound is what surprised me the most and what I'm most thankful for). . .Finally, I personally think Cabinets are way better than shelves up front.
Pics of the 8.5 x 20 (last one is with the tire rack added).

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