So who are the Adv riders here?

12-13 was first two years of the new platform and still have kickstarter as well as e start. Roller bearing cranks that failed on some people (mine did it). 14-16 they switched to plain bearing crank for better reliability but everything else was essentially the same. 17 had some bodywork changes and no kicker and some gear ratio changes (5-6 gap I think) that weren’t ideal. Then I think it changed a little in 20 or 21 and now they released a new model that’s nearly all changed for 24 that should hit around June July. I love my 13. It’s the best all around bike I’ve had for dual sport and racing a little. All the info you could ever want is on this thread in advrider. https://www.advrider.com/f/threads/ktm-500-exc.682150/

 

Where did you find it?

 

KTM500 changes off the top of my head:
2016 - last year for slightly higher oil capacity, and last year for kickstarter from the factory
2017->2020? - you can add kickstarter because there is a removable cover to attach to engine
2021+ - they removed the option for a kickstarter

I have a 2021 500XCFW. It's been a great bike minus a couple of issues:
- stock the bikes are extremely neutered. Mine has an EJK piggyback ecu and the Pro Moto Billet end cap on the exhaust. This restores power, but it does not fix flame outs. I hear this 1)shouldn't happen with my setup and 2)this would surely be fixed with a Vortex/GET ecu. When trail riding this isn't an issue at all, but when I'm trying to ride at racing pace, it shows up like once every hour or something. I notice it when I'm abruptly stopped by hitting an obstacle. The last time it happened, I came into a badly rooted area at higher speed, hit a root and started to roll over it, but the flame out caused the bike to stall and I didn't get to pull the clutch in on time, so I flew off the bike. It messed up my knee and made me pretty pissed.

- I have a unique problem, that doesn't seem to be shared by others on the internet. Basically, my engine has too much load under starting. On the first button press of the starter, the starter motor cannot overcome the load and it stalls, never having turned at all. If I hit the button 2-4 times, it will start. I've swapped multiple batteries and even a buddy's starter motor, and the problem persists. If I pull the spark plug, the bike turns over no problem. It seems like it's a (lack of) decompression issue, but I can't find mention of how this bike's decompression works, or if it even has a mechanism for it. I know my old RFS bikes had auto-decompression, but I never looked into how it worked. For my '21 model, there's no mention of decompression in the manual or in the microfiche. Anyhow, I figured out that if I just leave the bike in gear and roll it forward a couple of inches, it moves the engine rotation enough to make it easy to start.

 

Does this happen only on cold start-ups?
Is this one of them thar new fangled lightweight batteries?

 

No drastic difference hot/cold.
Yeah, it uses Li-Iion batteries. I bought a new one and tried my buddie's from his FE501 along with his starter that both worked fine in his bike and won't start mine.

 

Hmm.
- What about the starter solenoid? Resistances/voltage drops?
- Starter button resistance/voltage drop?
- Check the starter cable amp draw. Maybe try a heavier gauge cable on your starter?

 

- Didn't replace, but the voltage drop matches other's measurements
- I think the button resistance just sends the signal to allow the relay to apply power. I'm certain the relay is closing the circuit to send power to the starter.
- I could try another cable, but it still doesn't answer the question of: "why does the engine rotational position affect the ability of the starting system to begin to turn the engine over?"

(To be clear, my starter motor stalls on button push. It doesn't spin at all. After 3-4 button presses it moves just enough to become easier to rotate, then it spins and starts right up.)

Honestly, since I now know that I can just push the bike forward a few inches and it starts right up, I'm gonna leave it. I don't have that many free weekends to ride before I sell the bike and move to Japan. I'll just tell the next guy what's going on.

 

Speed and sport, they have another one on order too.

 

Do you feel like you got lucky? I haven't been there since things started being unavailable anywhere and I imagine anything else on the floor wouldn't be too interesting, same as at J&B.

Speed&Sport tells me to watch their Facebook for inventory. I can't go actively looking for a bike...I'll end up buying it.
Now, if they just happened to have a Raptor700R when I walk in out of happenstance, that's a different scenario. It's a sign. I'll have to buy it!

How long have you been after a T7?
Does it seem to be all that it can be?

 

I think everyone covered the model year differences with the 500 pretty well. The only other area to consider is the newer bikes (17+) really need a new ECU (Vortex/GET/PC) to wake them up (along with pipe/end cap). The older bikes (12-16) you can really get by with just a tuner like the piggyback systems (JD Tuner, Dobek, etc). Also they changed the internal gearing after 2016 where the gap between 5th and 6th is much bigger than in the past (5th gear is much closer to 4th, then a big jump to 6). Not a huge deal but something that many find annoying if they come from a 2015 time frame to a newer bike.

As always, it's easier to buy a used one that's well set up and maintained. they are pretty durable, I have 200+ hours on my 2015 and it's running strong. The 500's are amazing bikes. Highly recommended for anyone looking to get into DS riding.

 

I was in S&S buying a helmet for my grandson and just happened to ask Joe about a T7. He said they had one coming in in about a month so I put a deposit down on it. I've been looking for about 18 months, almost bought a used DR 650 from J&B.
I'm not a dirt bike guy, never have been. As a street bike the T7 is lacking grunt as compared to my FZ09. With the exception of the seat it is much more comfortable for my size. I was amazed at just how "flickable" it was, I guess I expected it to be slower in that respect. I took it on about 80 miles of gravel/dirt fire roads so far with no issues. I haven't tried it yet with the ABS off, figure I need to relearn how to ride on loose surfaces.
When I stopped for gas up at Forksville I was questioned by a Miata driver about how to get one, apparently there's quite a few folks looking. I just happened to be in the right place. It's a wonder Yamaha doesn't produce more.

 

That seems to be the same way I end up with bikes, too...walk-ins.

Judging by how much of a monster my heavy-ass single cylinder Grizzly 700 can be, I bet that T7 has a beast of a powerband and, thanks to twin cylinders, none of the vibe that would be annoying on open roads.

Get dirty with it!

 

I had a 2017 500 excf that I bought new. I had it for 5 years and LOVED it. I keep thinking about getting another one. However, it took about $5k of stuff to make it into a bike I loved. From the factory it kinda sucked.

 

I am doing something similar with my KDX300 right now. Cool bike, very mellow, and seems reliable so far.

 

16K miles on my '22 T7. All good. No issues. Its a bit tall and heavy for off-road, but I'm pretty happy and worry-free.

 

Anyone here have experience with the Africa Twin and a Pit Bull headlift stand pin #12T?
I cant make it fit between the fender and the bottom of the triple tree.
Do you have to remove the front fender to use it? If so its worthless because that fender is not easy to remove, has brake lines woven thru it...
Maybe Im doin it wrong?

 

Yes on my ATAS, don't have to remove the fender but loosen/remove fasteners enough to move the fender out of way a bit - forward or back I don't remember. I stopped using the PB pin setup with my high fender kit installed.

 

Opinions on 1290SA's? Have a guy that might be interested in a trade for my XR. His is a 2015 with 9K miles.

 

I’d join ADVRider, read through the KTM sub-forum, and post up, there. There isn’t anything they don’t know.

There are some 1yr components and generational changes, through that time period. I worked on an abused 2017 SA and hit snags with acquiring certain parts. I don’t want to say a 2015 falls into that same era, because I don’t have enough knowledge of what components changed when. Again, ADVRider is probably the best resource on the planet. I do know, that bike absolutely rips.

 

Yeah, I'm there. They have a category that lumps all the big KTM's together and is about 600 pages long. I trust your alls knowledge