So I wanna be a roadracer

That. That right there. That's exactly what I want. Thank you for that shot Jim.

 

Ok, yeah, I can see that. Rd400 posted his like the way You're describing right? After comparing the two, it (on the side) just looked like an easier install. I see Your point though. I've looked at the rotary stuff, but to be quite honest, no matter what I have for a damper, I'll just use it on the lightest setting or not at all. might as well save a few bucks going with a rod type. Or however the Hell You say it.

 

Good point. And the answer is...I don't know. I don't even know if I can explain Myself to be quite honest with You. I uh....I've never had one before.

Guess I need to re-think My stance.

 

The big guy knows what he's talking about. You'll use more of it than you think. I like the way mine is mounted because you can fine tune it during practice and you barely have to move your hand off the left grip.

 

So, for those of us who've never run with a damper, how does one choose the correct setting?

 

Ah. Got it. Good info. I hope My post about dampers didn't come across as 'dumbassed' or 'arrogant'.


Well, off to study dampers.

 

The way I set up the NHK dampers:

Install the damper - make SURE the damper does not reach the end of travel in either direction before you reach the steering stops. This is very important as the dampers are not designed to be steering stops.

Set the damper on the lowest level. Rotate the bars back and forth in the shop. Increase the damper force one click at a time (NHKs have 7 clicks) until you begin to notice the drag. Stop there and do a few practice laps (practice not race) and see how it feels. If you don't notice any difference riding go up one more click and try it again. You want as much damper force as you can without interfering with your riding. Just about any bike will go into a tank slapper given the right circumstances. The purpose of the damper is to stop that oscillation before it gets dangerous. The higher the initial damping force the quicker it is brought under control.

Sean is absolutely right - a damper set up incorrectly or with poor quality mounts can get you killed.

Wherever you get it be sure and buy good quality dampers. There are some being sold that have no business on a race bike.

Last, when the day comes you notice the damper is beginning to ooze oil around the shaft don't just wipe it off and forget about it. As the oil leaks out the damper loses it ability to do it's job. Rebuild it or replace it when you first see that oil.

 

Awesome. You Sir have just earned My business. Um...what kind of measurements do You need from My bike to get the right damper I need? Is the info on Your site? Let Me know. I want to go ahead and order it and get it taken care of.

Thanks Mongo and rd400 for the help.

 

Not killed, obviously, but I lost one front tooth and broke 3 more due to the lack of a steering damper. I still have the scar tissue on my chin 35 years later. (Last race where open face helmets were permitted.)

 

Ed Bargy's school is a but more pricey but covers more of the technical side of racing. Last weekend I started my second full year of racing with WERA with not so much as a track day or mountain road race previously. Pretty happy with the results after the 2011 season.

Dennis, I fixed your quote for ya

I could use some help in that area. Running outta money quick

+1 ... Scott hooked me up with leathers, gloves and back protector at a great price. Two crashes at Road Atlanta (June2011 and Oct2011), one broken rib, one bruised ego, a half bottle of Jack, day of getting the bike back together and still using the Kobe gear. Good stuff for good price :up:

As for steering dampers: guess I view the idea of not running a damper/incorrectly set up damper like running your tires half low on air psi. You're gonna loose, it's just a matter of time. I set mine up a little different (wrong as it may be). Initially a little over tight, not maxed out fully. After a couple of warm up laps you're biceps and shoulder muscles will let you know if it's too much. Lighten it up two clicks/settings. If it's still too tight after another lap or so, loosen another two clicks and test ride again. If it seems too loose, just tighten one click.

I'm probably not the person to ask a lot of this stuff but will share what I can

 

Since I am a sissy(and because I removed the starter on my FZR) I would set my damper to 1 in the pits for easy of pushing it around, then readjust it on pit road.

I was at a trackday, first session did a few warmup laps then started pushing the pace. I got massssive crap-your-pants headshake coming out of a fast left and said wow the bike doesnt feel right. So I came in only to realize I never turned the damper back *on*.:crackhead: I think it was a sign though...because as soon as I dismounted the bike and turned my back to it my battery exploded!!(it was a faulty, cheap lightweight job)

But the moral is, even in my limited experience, the damper makes a big difference.:up:

 

Jim Hinshaw just gave you a studied read on dampers...you have Joe Pomeroy up in your neck of the woods...between those two guys, you'll get it right. :up:

 

Thank You thank You thank You everyone. The info is awesome. Much needed too. You know what? here's something I've realized: I need to quit thinking like a 'track day' guy. Or a 'twisty' guy. It's almost like I'm starting from scratch. THAT...is why I'm here. I want to make sure EVERYTHING is done right before I even get to riders school, then onto the track. I want to go into the first weekend without having to worry about this or that, and just focus on riding. I have ALOT to learn, and ALOT to do.

Thanks again


Wait. Quick question....in the rulebook it says fuel lines must be clamped. Does that mean the mechanical type that You tighten with a flatblade or nut driver?

 

So that's the famous 'turkey pan' set up eh? I'm guessing (note the brilliant observation) that you race it half faired? Do You do that because the pan would be in the way of Your lowers? Can You get Yours on with that pan on?

 

Well I had an issue getting my beat up R6 lower to work at that race so ended up putting the pan on. That's a very poor example LOL but it got the job done. Before I raced I had stock FZR lowers on the bike and the turkey pan wraps inside of them nicely.

 

that's good to know. Thank you. I saved a pic of Your bike so's I could look at it closer to see how some of Your safety wiring is done. You mind?