Question about engine timing on a bike motor

Engine was just rebuit, and Plugs are new.

 

You have to change your mindset when diagnosing a "no start".
Take nothing for granted, you MUST check comp and you MUST inspect the plugs...
You had the head off so the engine has not "just been rebuilt".
You have been cranking the hell out of it trying to get it fire, so the plugs COULD be doinked, oil or gas soaked...
You may discover while inspecting plugs and testing comp that there is a crossed wire or faulty connector/connection..
Keep your eyes (and mind) open and OBSERVE everything..
How about how long your chasis has been "in storage" waiting for it's new powerplant?
Is the fuel tank varnished or is there rotten fuel in the fuel system?

 

You have 3 absolute, fundamental, cannot get out of the thought process, how the Otto cycle works:

1. Fuel ~ Gas cap hole closed-Petcock slowly flows-Collapsed/kinked fuel hose = Think the process in steps. No gas in tank?
2. Spark ~ Foul plugs spark but to the side, not jump the side electrode. Takes wires to feed a spark. Wire not connected/wire out of connector/wire short to ground are the steps to no spark are just a few basic fundamental (think) processes to eliminate as a root cause in that [long] trouble tree list.
3. Compression ~ Leak down is the only way to find which 3 variables are missing as with the 3 fundamental [sealing] variables having a huge list of chases; you need to sharpen the mind to understand if it is a valve/ring/or head gasket. Rings mean piston with a hole, ring grooves collapsed on a detonation hammer to the dome. The ring no longer floats, can press against the wall kind of think that sealing factor out. The valves, the head gasket, all need to be digested so as to puke out the one [variable] casing the process [of elimination] not to run.

And you will chase your tail you do not first and foremost, check compression to continue following the flow chart for fuel or spark. Check compression so it is off the list. And no, not your finger over the hole to measure compression. Cause and effect you might ass well shove your finger up your ass and find out and measure how much shit hits the porcelain throne. YOu get it right, you can finger my cylinder, I need the first call of the ball is die you wee ah, got it?

And you didn't mention things like starting on gas you think is sta-bul to run on. Something is missing in your description why that bike is not running on the 3 fundamental variables; everyone is still chasing that phantom 20/20 for you.

Don't chew just love the net! Check that kick over switch is not upside down on the re-assembly is shit like that is hidden from the moves made on that rebuild someone did not mention.


You fucked up something is the bike can only be assembled one way and that is a part; that was bolted upside down is the why shit happens you have an absolute hands on approach is that bike runs if it's put together [as] designed, upside down cake.

Yo, you have any gov issued salt?

 

Bump - Just curious of the outcome....

 

Same here. having similar symptoms putting a SV650 back together with slotted cam sprockets.

 

I'm in the exact same boat on at 09 zx6r, stripped it down, had the head milled, re-assembled, degreed the cams to WSS spec, engine back in, no go, also got a backfire. Havnt checked anything yet though, figured I'd do a little research first.

 

With slotted sprockets you can have enough range of motion to have an interference fit with exhaust valves. (Or intakes). You can set the either very easily for a ROUGH baseline by finding opening degrees on the intake and set it around 8 degrees BTDC. That should get you close enough, then set the exhaust maybe 40 BBDC. That's not going to be what you want most likely for your desired lobe centers but probably close enough to avoid PTV contact. You may have to spin the motor backward so take the starter off.