Painting question

I was hoping that maybe a paint expert might be willing to share some tips.

I just ordered a new set of Sharkskinz for my racebike and wanted opinions on the best paint to use and any advice or tips for getting a good paint job that wont chip.

I had a local place here in Pensacola paint my bike last time, and after one race the bike looked like it traveled through a meteor storm. There were chips ALL OVER it.

The plastics and paint job that came with the bike (From Vesrah) are friggan bullet proof though. It doesnt matter how many races I put those things through, they wont chip.

 

Shannon, your eyes broke boy? not 20 threads down from this is another paint thread

 

depends upon how much you want to spend. I painted my new sharksinz this weekend using a single stage enamel. Cost was lower than a 2 stage urethane, but probably no where near as durable. If you want a good paint job that is going to last you will need a 2 stage system, but time an cost go up with this. IMO there is no reason to spend high dollars on a paint job for a race bike that may go sliding down the track

 

Use an Adhesion promoter, and a quality clearcoat.

PPG Deltron is good stuff, Some folks get very good results with PPG Omni (great value)

Also, add a flex agent to the clearcoat.

Happy painting

 

I found using quality clearcoat makes a world of difference

Wet sand and thoroughly clean between all coats of paint

 

Get ahold of Chuck (gpracer15). Usually hangs out in the vintage forums.

Also, what crazywolf said :up:

And read through this...
http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=300978

 

If the pieces came in primer, using a 2K urethane sealer or better yet, an epoxy sealer, will get you the adhesion you want. Then the clear will provide the overall protection. But the best clear can't make up for a lack of adhesion.

 

The flex agent is only for plastic things like bumpers so when you install it they don't crack. The flex agent will off gas in a few weeks so it doesn't do anything for what the OP is asking.

As to an adhesion promoter? WTF is that? Automotive paint is a system. If you want the best results you are going to start with an epoxy primer. But now you are looking at lots of money in materials and time for something that is disposable.

Sand that virgin bodywork and then spray with a 2 stage paint and stop riding on tracks with a ton of rocks on it.

 

Have you talked to Cody out in Milton? Can't remember his shop name but John at Turn One knows who I'm talking about.

 

Wow! Thanks for all the advice guys! Im going to spend the little extra on whereever it's needed to make it tougher.

I have a friend that paints boats for a living who is REALLY good at what he does on them. He's painted some bad ass looking race boats etc... So he has the ability to make the paint look good, but I wanted to get some input for him since he's never painted a race bike before and had to worry about rock chips and such.

I think that this info is perfect for him. He's really excited about painting his first race bike, I'm excited about the "buddy hookup" on the labor, and hopefully we have the needed info to make it last longer than my last paint job did by a local shop.

 

You don't sand between color coats.

 

it sounds like he does...

 

Or you could call up Vesrah and ask them what paints they use.

 

Wrong.

:crackhead:

 

Well, I just finished my first real 2-stage paintjob this week. I did one last year, but the compressor crapped out half way through, so that doesn't count (finished with a Prevale jar, then crashed the bike the day )

Overall, I did a ton of research, and spent a fortune on equipment and material. Did a 3 color, 3-stage Urethane paint job using PPG Shopline and Deltron paints/primer/clear. Learned a ton of lessons along the way, such as:

1)Getting into painting (correctly) cost a fortune. I stuck with a $100 touch up gun and used quality compressor ($75) and still paid over $800+ by the time I buffed it out. Overall, the materials add up. I think PPG was part of the cost issue, other brands may be cheaper.

2)Most home compressors suck for paint. It's all about CFM and tank size. Get a good, used unit on Craigslist, most of the store brands are very low on CFM. Pro units are very expensive.

3)Prep is by far the most important. If you don't have patients and time, don't bother.

4)Urethane paints are toxic as Hell. Don't think you can just spray in an open garage with a dust mask. Need a full VOC respirator, total body coverage and some way to filter the fumes (assuming you have neighbors, small animals or a wife at home).

5)Shooting clear is tough. I just couldn't get it to lay as smooth as I wanted, resulting in a lot of color sanding, and even some reshooting. On the other hand, shooting primer is very easy.

6) if you're adding tape stripes under the clear, let the stripes adhear for a day to so. They tend to shrink when stretched, especially with heavy clear on top.

7) Reds can be a pain to paint. Requires more coats and thicker application

8) no matter how much paint/clear you think you've applied, it's never enough.

9) did i mention it's expensive to start?

So overall, if you're doing it to save money, don't bother. Guys on this forum who can do a 2 color job for $5-600 are well worth the money. But if you want to learn something new, it's a very rewarding hobby. Just be prepared for what you're getting into.

If money matters, i would shoot it with a rattle can, then use a 2X spray urethane to seal it with a nice shine. Cost about $20/can, but very good stuff. Also, local DuPont place can do custom single stage paints in a rattle can.

If money only mattered a little, use a single stage paint. MUCH easier, cheaper and offers similar strength of 2 stage, just without that thick gloss that you may want.

Metalics are suppose to be tougher to lay down correctly, as well as pearls. I used a power pearl, and to be honest, it wasn't that tough. Just added a 3rd stage to the process.

 

Ok fine...I won't listen to my local paint supplier.

 

Most of this stuff wont be an issue for me. My buddy paints for a living and will be using his paint booth, compressor, gun, etc... from his job.

He also has the skill to spray everything, his work is bad ass.

We are just trying to figure out if there is a certain type of paint, a particular brand, or any special addiatives that make the paint job tuff like the Vesrah paint job which after countless races and track days has bounced everything off of it. But my other paint job chips if you look at it funny.

 

I believe some chipping paint is almost inevitable for race bikes; just too much crap gets thrown at the bike at high speeds. I've seen quite a few pro race bikes up close, and they get all sorts of marks on them.

Urethane is pretty much the commercial standard, and for good reason. Very strong, and resists chemicals. Almost anything else will not stand up to gasoline.

I would suggest investing a good, strong clear, and plan on 3+ coats at least. With painting urethane, timing is critical. Unless you want to sand, color needs to go on under 24 hours from primer, and clear needs to go on 12 hours after color (depending on brand). Most have a flash time of 10 minutes or so, so get ready for the second coat. This can make doing multi-color jobs a real hassle, again, unless you want to sand.

I don't think there is such a think as an extra protector for paint (beyond clear), but check PPG's Website. They make a TON of miscellaneous additives and such.

Man, having someone else's equipment and booth saves a fortune!

 

You can just shut your whore mouth Tristan! (thats a dick smiley)

Might want to see what that thread is about before you recommend it. Its not exactly geared for the discussion I had in mind.

But... NOW I know why they call you SloMo (or Schlomo Man dumplings)

 

Awesome! Thanks for the tips!!