Have a friend who has some gravel damage to his OEM GSXR fairings. I have zero experience with fixing/painting plastic fairings. Wondering if anybody has some good advice, knows of a good resource or does this for a living/hobby...assuming is different than painting fiberglass?
When I worked as paint prep guy on Harley shit the shop I was at had some crazy process of lacquer thinner, followed by some kind of parts cleaner, then soap water scrub with red scotch brite, then lacquer thinner again, then sand with 180 grit... Google says wash with soap and water, scuff with 300, then tack rag. Basically make the shiny plastic go away.
Restore to OEM appearance? If so, cost of materials, paying someone to prep and spray, OEM stickers, etc. likely make it more worthwhile to check on the 'bay or local boneyards for used in decent condition.
No man no... Treat it the same as fiberglass or metal... sand/prime repeat until smooth... use 400 then 600 then spray... base color/clear done if you sand into the ABS it’ll react to your paint and make a mess... you’ll see it when you prime as it’ll raise up and look like scratches... if this happens then you need to seal it until it stops, with a self etching primer, this sucks, try not to sand into the plastic... this means if possible, sand the existing paint and fill the rock chips with primer and paint over it all... This isn’t opinion, it’s fact and 40 years of paint experience. Not being a conceited ass just letting you know this is the proper way.
Agreed, this is easiest if you’re not a painter. Even the Chinese body kits are a steal of a deal but I’m sure they’re all backed up now too...
I hear ya.. I was assuming the damage was into the plastic. I think that harley shit was something other than ABS too ... Fiberglass/ carbon FTW. I've had to repair a plastic bumper on my truck and the "bumper epoxy" does really well in deep grooves... again I think thats a different plastic PP? I think i'm beginning to be a Yelper rather than a Helper...
I wasn’t trying to be a dick... I tried typing it a few times and it all sounded that way... must be natural I think you meant lacquer “primer” not thinner too... And the paper recommendations they gave you were way too rough... There are so many types of plastics used and nearly all of it reacts once you’re into it... on deep scratches like your bumper for sure the epoxy works well as it seals it with the bond... I hate reactions and will throw away a set of bodywork before chasing a good sealing over a bad paint of some sort... epoxy primer is outrageous too and makes a new set of bodywork more cost effective some times... Rant off... Good luck on the painting.
I wasn't trying to be a dick either and yes lacquer thinner... I also found the process odd while working there(often on shiny new harley fresh out the mold plastic for some speaker doodad) I remember seeing a video on a dude lightly taking a propane torch to a PP dirt bike fender then rubbing down with ISO Alcohol to take off the release agent he just "baked to the surface"... never tried that one. BTW most of my experience is with Fiberglass molding and carbon part wet layup.. High end paint shit... not so much. Love me some PPG DP90 tho...
I didn’t think your posts were dickish at all... mine did though... On new plastic parts most paint companies have a plastic prep that allows a scuff and shoot on automotive parts. Flex additives too... denatured alcohol too... so many things things... fish eye reducer... The thinner trick was likely and old timer habit handed down... my grandpa did that... he could lay on a smooth as glass lacquer base... then buff it until the cows come home... I think he restored all old cars just so he never had to use base/clear What kind of CF parts you making? FG mold mock ups I’ve done a bit of...
I've made a bunch of molds and parts from a violin chin rest to a kevlar sprocket cover on a dirt bike. And big shit too like C and D sport racer bodywork(scca) and a bunch of other race car shit too like a rx-8 full body for Dempsey racing (when i worked at Jim downing's place) ive done a lot of GTP from the late 70's early 80's too.. I'm always trying to learn the little tricks even from old timers.. i'll message u a link to my FB business page if you do FB
If he's going for an OEM exact look, it's maybe not worth it to expend the time/energy to try to match the finish. Consider just ordering the parts you need from Ron Ayers. https://www.ronayers.com/
agreed, it was suggested going OEM up there... not sure how expensive new OEM is but RA is always an option...
Express method...(not knowing the deets of your particular job) I will stab at this). I am assuming decals are off. Wash real good (soap) Decrease with alcohol Carefully use a razer blade to shave any big slag off of stone impacts. Grab a scotchbrite pad and some comet and scrub the whole panel. Don't let the comet/water solution dry on the job. Rinse with water 600 grit sand paper to plane the surface smooth. Wash rinse Dry with compressed air (thoroughly) Set it up so its doesn't move around and you can put eyes all over at. If you dont see it your not gonna get paint on it. Blow it off and with patience apply paint. A test panel or two will help you refine your technique. Paint it like a typewriter sets type. Don't double coat. Good luck..i think painting is fun..still after 30 years. Peace
your ocd is showing one of the hardest things about painting is stopping the prep work when you “know” you can get it perfect with just one more prime/sand round... the reality is 99% won’t notice what you see and any that do will understand the time/cost factor That being said I’ve sprayed some of my best work outside in a gravel parking lot and some of my worst in a high tech downdraft booth lit up like the sun... most couldn’t tell the difference between them though. the real skill is in the clear coat.... good painters can hide nearly any imperfections with a mix of application techniques with the clear coats.
