Am contemplating doing a spray paint job myself on my race body work. Anyone know what kind of paint I should use? What is the differences between Acrylic vs. Lacquer vs. Enamel...
What's that mean? I need to paint mine also. Just want it to look decent from 10 feet away. Want to just spray it in one step and move on.
Maybe someone else will come along with other ideas but here's something that I'd pulled down from the Tech section last year. I edited it only but the ideas are all the guy who first posted it - I sadly didn't write his name on this saved WORD file I have. These instructions really extremely well for a rattle can paint job. Painting Body Work First and foremost.....the way for me to a good paint job is GOOD PREP WORK!!!! I can't stress that enough. (1) Get all that grease and grime off. I used 3m Adhesive, Grease and Wax Remover. Even if it looks like there’s nothing on it (like new direct from the manufacturer) still clean it good. (2) Next went over the set with a green scotch brite pad to slightly scuff it up. (3) Then use Plasti-Kote sand-able gray Primer (ALL paint used was Plasti-Kote Truck and SUV paint I got from PEP Boys for $4.99 a can). Even if it is pre-primed, prime it again because some paints are only compatible with same company’s primer. I than hung the bodywork by a bent wire hanger from hooks in the ceiling of my garage. Don't paint it on the floor of the garage it gets everywhere and you end up not getting paint in all the crevises. (4) Next I sprayed 3-4 coats of whatever color you wish. Don't get too close or you'll get heavy runs. You don't have to cover the bodywork 100% on the first coat. Keep the can about 8 or so inches away and keep a nice steady side to side stroke. I used Laquer paint, it seems to dry a lot faster and is more forgivable if you make a mistake (sand-able). I waited about 10 minutes between coats. (5) After the last coat, I sanded with 2000 grit wet sandpaper. This took off all the "dust" that the over spray left everywhere. The spray can says 400 grit but that, in my opinion, takes way to much paint off and actually leaves fine scratches in the fresh paint. The 2000 grit leaves a silky smooth finish! I than used a hose and washed all the residue off and dried it real good. (6) Next I put 2-3 coats of clear coat on in the same manner I did the color. Only difference is that I didn't sand when I was done. If you choose to sand the clear coat. wait a week or so to make sure it is FULLY cured and dried. As I found out if you sand the clear coat too early, it turns a dull opaque color and looks like crap. It took almost 2 hours to buff and polish it back to a nice smooth shiny color. (Used Novus plastic 3 step polish to do and then McGuire’s cleaner/wax). I actually did not clear coat my all Black tail section yet cause it was too perfect and smooth with just the black spray paint (no dust or anything) so I'm going to wait to see how it holds up without it. One mistake I made on my first attempt was mixing lacquer and enamel. DO NOT mix lacquer and enamel paint. It causes a reaction that makes the paint scale and peel. Enamel is very hard to sand, so if you make a mistake with enamel, your sort of stuck with it. The other was I assumed the Shark Skinz section was clean and the primer they used was good. Wrong!!!!!!!
Fhool! What are you tryin to do now? Hey, If you're painting your nails, I recommend enamel! H, how many times do we have to discuss this...send me the bodywork and it's painted. SOOoooo, put down the testor's paint and brush and come out with your hands up! Big RoNny
Hey Dummy! Just call me next time, will you before you start any other projects! No wonder you can't get your bike fixed....to busy playing with the magic markers and crayola's!
Why do I always get stuck with Jerry's kids? Uhh... Ronny... As I started the post, it is a copy and paste from someone else. You've probably forgotten (or not noticed some of the details in the post) but I don't have a black tail section. Anywho, I did follow the guy's suggestions for the Armour Bodies set that I have for my F2. It turned out great. Not the quality of the job you and Sauce have but very good for a rattle can. I recommend always applying clear coat, despite any shiny appearance without it.
Kurt Kesler method for painting race bikes: Wash the areas to be painted with a scotchbrite pad. Dry. Spray spraypaint. Open beer. Drink beer and admire handywork.
I suggest you use a three step method. Primer, color and clear coat. I do three steps because you hide all imperfections with clear. You can shoot you color coat rather dry, without risk of runs. Make sure you take your time, a rushed job will look like crap. I usually shoot DuPont stuff. PPG Omnipaint is pretty good and it's cheap.
You guys have shown me alot here... Rattle can job will hopefully look pretty good after all of this. I'll post pics when it's done.
$250 Priceless Send me the bodywork and I'll paint any solid colors for you for $250.00:up: Rattle cans don't work very well over a large area! Too much overspray!
Plainfield, IL Just outside of Chicago West in Plainfield. Go to wavetechpowersports.com for info:up:
+1 Also spray bombs don't do good with fuels or solvents And if you ever want to paint with a nice bc/cc old cheap rattle bomb paint makes it real difficult. 250.....Thats not a bad price
Yeah, I know! It doesn't include bodywork that's damaged. That's just prep, primered, base coats, paint, clear coat! Bodywork is definately extra and is guaranteed!
That sounds like a good deal, but I want at least 4 colors in it. lots of tape work etc. etc. It's probably at best a $500 paint job. I'll rattle can it for 50 bucks and call it good. I'm just gonna go crash the thing anyways.
