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How to run an O2 sensor on my track bike briefly to get A/F data....

Discussion in 'General' started by The Todd, Dec 23, 2024.

  1. notbostrom

    notbostrom DaveK broke the interwebs

    I'm not even going to answer that question based on the fact you might try it lol
     
    The Todd likes this.
  2. Boman Forklift

    Boman Forklift Well-Known Member


    :crackup::crackup::crackup::crackup:
     
    TurboBlew likes this.
  3. notbostrom

    notbostrom DaveK broke the interwebs

    And every one of us looked at that thing and were convinced we could pull it off if needed
     
    The Todd and Boman Forklift like this.
  4. YoshiHNS

    YoshiHNS Mr. Slowly

    I wouldnt mess with a roller like that. Much cheaper to hang the rear of the bike up by the ceiling joists.
     
    969 and Once a Wanker.. like this.
  5. YamahaRick

    YamahaRick Yamaha Two Stroke Czar

    I can't wait to see the future YT videos where a "tuner" has his bike's rear wheel on rollers or suspended in the air and saying "I learned this pro tip by reading the WERA beeb. It saved me a lot of $$$."
     
  6. The Todd

    The Todd It's 'The Todd'

    Update:

    it's in the 30's outside- no that's ot the update.

    Rather tha drop the O2 sensor down my excuse for a muffler little shorty glasspack, I decided to drill it in the only place where it had a chance of fitting when mounted.
    I drilled it a few days ago on my neighbors little table top drill press where I thought the hole/sendor might work and have just enough clearance to work.
    i mounted it all today, put the battery back in, and hit the power button. This all seems OK.

    Now I have tro hook my laptop up to the controller and get the program running again too.

    i'll go back out i a bit and try and start it, let it get to temperature and see where it's at a/f ratio wise.

    Then if I get that far, I'll do the data logging thru the % of throttle opening, etc.

    Im kinda scared it's ot going to work. I'll try t stay positive.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Banditracer likes this.
  7. The Todd

    The Todd It's 'The Todd'

    I tried it, it worked OK, but I keep loosing com with the control unit. I think it's the female internal fitting that the extension to and the unit goes to. I have a cable that goes in the extension, and into my USB And it does communicate. But it looses com often.

    The a/f was working and at about any throttle, I was getting around 11.8. At least I'm not burning it up.

    Interestingly enough, when i took the muffler off, drilled, etc., there was no fine black fim on it like a carbon layer at all, the inside of the header was clean and dry.
     
  8. metricdevilmoto

    metricdevilmoto Just forking around

    What's step 2, long term, now that you have that hole in your pipe?
     
    The Todd likes this.
  9. The Todd

    The Todd It's 'The Todd'

    It's all hoked up now, with little to no flow interference in the muffler pipe.

    I tried yesterday to get some data, and while it's working some, it keeps loosing the comm with the unit.

    I'll try it again soon.

    Watching Youtubes and and reading the Bazzaz instructions, I plan to start the data collection, exit the program and unplug the laptop. It says this keeps the last data collection and you can see the suggested map changes based on a set a/f ratio and make changes if wanted.

    This was the whole reason to do this. If I can get it to do that, then I'll know I have a good a/f ratio and good health for the motor.

    If I do get it good, I might put a plug in that hole.
     
  10. The Todd

    The Todd It's 'The Todd'

    And, the hole is in the excuse for a muffler/glasspack. I had bought a bung plate off the Net the clamps on with a gasket under it too.
     
  11. beechkingd

    beechkingd Well-Known Member

  12. RightSideUp

    RightSideUp Well-Known Member

    For best results: Step one get a real slip on those slash cut pipes are not good for performance, step two find your local dyno shop that knows how to run the bike right not just WOT pulls.

    If you are set on trying to get it mapped yourself you will not get good results with the o2 sensor that close to the exhaust outlet with the slash cut pipe. You will want it in the collector as close as possible where all the head pipes meet. Even then your results will be inconsistent/inaccurate with that exhaust because of reversion since there is no back pressure present. When a street bike comes in for tuning with a slash cut or open pipe we usually need to run a sniffer tube as far up the pipe as possible to get a consistent/accurate reading. Most aftermarket auto tune units on the market are not great for performance, they usually keep the bike running safe at best. A full fuel map/tune on a Bazzaz unit should run $300-$400 or you can ditch the Bazzaz and tune everything through the ECU although there would be an extra cost for the flash and possibly longer time on the Dyno.
     
  13. The Todd

    The Todd It's 'The Todd'

    I already have one like that. it seems to be getting good readings.


    Thanks, I do realize you do know what you're talking about.

    However, the sensor is at least 8" or more from the end of the pipe. It is right after the header 4-1 collector too. Right after it, like less than 1".

    On my first readings, the #'s stayed pretty steady in the high 11's range. There is no exhausst visible smoke, and no real soot in the end of the tailpipe either.
    I feel if it was sucking or scanveng air to the sensor, it would run a bit lean on the readings?

    This a 19 y/o track bike, that's been a dedicated track bike nearly it's entire life.

    The last Blueprinting was from Joe and TurnOne Performance- I have the invoice build sheet. I spoke with Joe a few times at a few track days about the bike, and he remembers the bike too.

    Again, an older, asesome track bike with Aftermarket suspension, etc. Not a race bike. It usually runs like a raped monkey.
    I would like to run it again, and then let it collect data at a track day (at all the throttle positions! not just WOT) and use the Bazzaz software and the suggested changes based on an a/f ratio to build an even better map for this bike.
    The one I'm running now is doing OK and it runs well and based on my first readings thus far, it's not too lean (or way too rich) and burning up my old/awesome motor!

    * So getting back to the older/non race bike. I don't really see how paying someone to tune it, or tune the ECU would in any way be worth it for me, on this bike, the way I use it.

    *Also- by removing the Bazzaz, that would take away my QS- which is nice, and also the Psuedo TC it has on it too.
     
  14. notbostrom

    notbostrom DaveK broke the interwebs

    Broome?


    Seriously though based on that shervin shifter there is a high likelihood that 02 is going to blow outta there at 15k RPM and remove your foot at the ankle.

    I'm thinking your fuel map is pretty low on the list of issues right now
     
  15. sharky nrk

    sharky nrk Rubber Side Up

    OK, I am interested in this LCU-One S expansion. Can you tell us more about it. I was thinking about picking up a Solo2 but now I am wondering if a DL and this expansion makes more sense than adding a wideband logger separately. Does it work on a bike that is not CANBUS. Like can I still use the DL with the expansion on a carb'd bike? Or does it only work on a bike that has logging through the CANBUS?
     

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