did you get an ATACR 1-8 or NX8? How’s FFP on low power? Seems like the scope would be worthless in lower mag, especially for quick shots. That has me looking at the Nxs 2-10. But it seems like FFP LPVOs sell so maybe it works?
ATACR. On the flat range plinking I love it. The way the reticle is designed it basically just becomes a red dot on 1x and the tapered crosshairs draw your eyes center very well. That said, obviously things change in more dynamic situations so we’ll see once I’ve run it through a few stages and some training courses. I am still planning to run a 45 degree rmr for swapping between magnified and 1x faster. I also don’t think you can go wrong with the 2-10. I love my vudu 2.5-10. Though I am also convinced that 2.5x is the highest low power that’s usable up close lol. I’ve been able to do ok with it but just barely. On one of my other rifles with a exps red dot and g33, on the occasion I’ve forgotten to flip my magnifier out of the way up close, it feels basically useless. Target acquisition becomes super difficult.
OK, some more NEWB questions here: 1. What is the most affordable way to play pew-pew with an AR in terms of ammo. Not looking to be best sniper in the world at this point, but to be able to practice and get familiar with things and not spend $1.00/round. I do know that a 556 can shoot both that and 223. What are cost-effective ammo options with this setup? Or should I get a .22 cal AR and shoot really cheap stuff? 2. If one puts together an AR with parts, what part has the serial number that is used to register the firearm?
For just plinking and playing at the range, get any .223 that is on sale and give it a go. Of course a .22LR is less expensive to shoot (and arguably more fun). The lower is the serialized part, what is considered the firearm.
Get yourself a 22 WMR and shoot that thing for 3 months every weekend until you're super proficient with it. It's also a great varmint round for yourself or as a hand down to family. I'd still rather shoot that than my AR. you can still rock 200 yd shots with that round although it's not like an AR at 200 yds.....it'll teach you basics, save your shoulders and ears, and won't break your bank account. The best place to spend stupid amounts of money is your optics. The rest isn't much difference to you until you get into competitions....and if you do then you transfer your optics anyways.
In MD, the lower receiver is the regulated portion of the firearm. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but is that decided by state laws?
CMMG .22 drop in conversion works with any spec upper. I hemmed and hawed for a long time before I finally got one and I should have done it earlier. Best of both worlds.
For an AR-15, the lower is the registered portion nationally (Federal). To my knowledge, the specific piece of a firearm (now expanding to pistols, revolvers, bolt rifles and shotguns) is the part with the serial number, and that is regulated at Federal level.
So typically the inexpensive ammo is 55gr FMJ bullets. Depending upon the twist of your barrel (usually like 1:7, 1:8 (referred to as "1 to 7", which is the distance to make a full rotation of the rifling of the barrel (so in 7" it does a full 360 degree rotation), that's what spins the bullet as it goes thru the rifling in the barrel and creates stability, like throwing a football). With that in mind, the faster twist is better for heavier bullets normally, so if you have a 1:7 barrel it's going to shoot 62-77gr bullets best. Typically the heavier bullets will be better quality and more accurate. Anything 68-77gr is normally "match" or HPBT (hollow point boat tail) or OTM (Open Tip Match) bullets and will be more accurate (and more expensive). Keep an eye out for sales on anything 62gr or higher and try that for more accurate shooting. Yes, buy a 22lr for cheap and fun shooting. IMHO I think it's easier to just buy a second hand 22lr AR platform rifle (Smith and Wesson M&P 15/22) and have a separate rifle, but if money is tight the CMMG conversions are good enough. Being able to shoot 500 rounds for $30 is the best. 2) The lower receiver on the AR platform is the serialized part and must go thru the FFL if you are buying new. All ofter parts are basically "parts" and can be shipped to you via mail/ups, etc. Different parts of the gun can be serialized but whatever part has the serial number is considered "the gun" and would be the part that has to be transferred via FFL if buying new. For instance, on the Ruger Mark series pistols, the barrel has the serial number, so if you want to replace the barrel with something like a Tactical Solutions threaded barrel, the barrel has to go thru the FFL and is the registered part. But normally it's the part where the trigger is housed.
Looks like most others have covered your questions but I'll try to fill 1 or 2 gaps that are more just strategy related. I don't have any experience with .22 conversions so I can't speak to that at all. 55gr .223 or 5.56 is your best bet for plinking/drill ammo. It's the cheapest and easiest to get practice with. I'd recommend Hornady Frontier, IMI Razorcore, or Federal American Eagle. Heard good stuff about Sellier & Bellot but haven't personally used it. Previously would've recommended Fiocchi Shooting Dynamics but recently have been using their Range Dynamics and it's not been great and I've seen many similar or worse complaints elsewhere. Makes me second guess the brand as a whole but maybe the Shooting Dynamics is fine. Stay away from Magtech, Remington, Winchester, or any steel case ammo. As long as you shop it right, you won't really save much, if anything over the other brands, and it's just not worth it. The aforementioned brands would actually cause me to worry about damage the rifle (squib loads, double loads, popped primers, etc.) If you want advice on purchasing ammo cheaply, that can be a whole separate post. If you decide to want to start stretching your ARs legs a bit more and measuring groups sizes, 68-77gr is where you want to be but you will pay for it. However, ideally you're burning through it at a much reduced rate. This is also a whole separate convo if you want. But with the right build, this can be really fun. I was grouping mine at 800 yards this past weekend and then lobbing at steel at 1000 yards for funsies (it is literally lobbing it at that point, lol). A good starting point for ammo here would be the IMI Razorcore 77gr (the Razorcore line has 55gr, 62, and 77gr, hence being mentioned twice). Really good performance for the price but probably the cheapest good performing match ammo I've found. Hornady Superformance or Black Hills Mk.262 for ultimate performance but that gets expensive quick. Just highlighting the broad ranges to work within if you want to go price it. gt#179 covered twist rate and ammo pretty thoroughly. My only add-on would be a recommendation for 1:7 or 1:8 twist rate on your barrel. If you don't care about grouping at all, then it won't really matter and you can run 55gr through it just fine. But if you ever do want to group it with nicer ammo, you'll be better equipped for that nicer, heavier ammo with the faster twist rate. 1:9 and up twist rates handle 55gr better but let's be honest, you're probably not grouping with that ammo anyways.
Right now I am looking at a Smith/Wesson 15-22. They are not that expensive, and I can shoot a ton of .22 lr ammo for very little $$. A friend has one, likes it, says it's easier to clean than his HK 416 .22lr AR. The CMMG .22lr conversion sounds really cool, but it's almost half the price of the 15-22 If I start with the 15-22 and outgrow it, then I'll at least have some time and experience with the platform, have more idea of what to maybe upgrade to or build in a 556/223 platform, and still maybe throw the CMMG conversion in there to let the kids shoot cheap ammo. Good thread!
I have two 15-22s, and don't see myself getting rid of them at any point. They both wear Sparrows and get more action than an instaho.
