Aprilia RS660 Tech Discussion

I have an ever-so-slightly cracked tank. How can I repair the composite material? Various types of JB weld did not work sufficiently.

 

https://www.polyvance.com/ These guys may have something for it. I've used their Plastifix to repair fairing cracks.

 

Any advice on what causes the quick shifter to stop working? Ran two laps and over the course of the third lap it intermittently would not downshift and then went to not working up or down. Haven’t had the chance to totally open up the bike but nothing visible appears to be wrong.

 

When my quickshifter doesn't work, I know it as soon as I shift from 1st to 2nd, because the gear icon in the bottom of the dash turns from orange to red, instead of orange to black. In that case, the QS doesn't work up or down.

The last few months, I've been trying to wait at least 30 seconds after turning the key before I push the starter button. Some have suggested the electronics need time to wake up before turning the bike on. This seems to help, but I haven't been very scientific or rigorous with testing.

 

And now the motor won’t rev when the bike is in gear. Does rev fine in neutral. Flashes a couple of the rev limiter lights when trying to apply throttle.

 

Not sure about that issue but don't use the autoblip feature, you'll run into transmission issues

 

Make sure everything is tight on the quickshifter. A loose shifter can cause faulty signals. Also, if you shift multiple times too quick, it seems to cause issues as well. Once the ECU determines something is wrong, it's disabled until you turn the bike on/off. I've found being methodically slow at downshifts while braking works well, just can't bang down the gears fast.

As for not revving, that's a weird one. Is your clutch switch installed and ok? Do you have the race ECU or flashed ECU with a pit speed limiter and accidentally engaged it?

 

Thanks for all the responses. Just got the bike and had it on track one day without issues. Changed wheels this morning and torqued to spec which seems totally high to me. Anyway since that was the only thing that was changed I backed off the nut and it revved and shifted fine.
Modern electronics!!

 

One last note on this. The wheels have aftermarket rotors. They are 1mm thinner than stock rotors which changes the distance from the tone ring to the sensor. I know you all have said that distance it very critical.

 

Oh yeah, you HAVE to shim the sensor to maintain the 0.5-2mm range. Aprilia makes little wheel speed sensor shims for this. Or use OEM thickness rotors.

 

I found that one of the wheels only has a .20 mm gap between the tone ring and the sensor, the other wheel is at .25 mm gap. The .20 will only shift up no auto blip down, the .25 does both fine. This is quite a bit off the gap range you have given and I would like to get it to the recommended spacing. You mentioned Aprilia makes shims for the sensor. Do you happen to have a part number? Is there some other material to use for shims?

 

I don’t have a part number, I got them at the race track when I had an issue. I’m sure Aprilia dealers / mechanics would have them. Earlier in this thread I think someone clarified the target gap is 1mm but I rechecked and the range in the manual is 0.5-2mm. You could probably make a shim out of a few layers of AL foil if you wanted to hold you over until you get a proper shim.