Tips for painting track plastics???

THAT is brilliant!

Wish I knew that about 4 paint jobs ago.

 

Related thread --> http://forums.13x.com/showthread.php?t=186580

 

So operation track bitch prep began today. So a few things that I learned...you're experiences may or may not differ

1 - Definately a smart idea to first wetsand the bodywork with 600 grit. It came already primed.

2 - Lacquer is DEFINATELY better for this job, I don't care what anyone says. Enamels stink for this job and I'll tell you why:
a - Lacquer is dry enough to the touch and you can mask off sections to mark lines and such in about 20-30 minutes (probably less) after you've finished spraying, enamel, you're waiting a couple days for it to cure

b - enamel is thick and heavy, lacquer is lighter and gives a smoother more professional looking finish. I find lacquer resist running and drips better too.

c - if you fudge something up you can sand down lacquer after the aforementioned 30 minutes time instead of waiting 2-3 days for the enamel to properly cure.

d - most auto parts stores have auto match lacquer selections so alot more cool looking pearl, mica, metallic etc etc tones to choose from.


If I do this job again I'm definately going ALL lacquer, not enamel for me anymore.

Oh, and what I found out was that you can spray enamel OVER lacquer, but never the reverse. The carrier solvent in lacquer is "hotter" so it will bubble up enamel if you spray it over it.

I think I'm going to wet sand everything one last time with 2000 grit once the clear is spray (is that advisable???). And then on go the Drippinwet decals once they get here from Chris. I'll be sure to post picks then too

 

Wierd, I had so much trouble with laquer, at least from a rattle can.. Are you using rattle cans or mixing your own and using a gun? My laquer paint wouldnt cure at all even after a few weeks of sitting, the enamel on the other hand stopped smell of paint and was pretty hard after a few days..

 

Hell no, I'm trailer trashin' in my garage, I don't have the equipment to use a gun. I used Dupli-Color Perfect Match automotive rattlecan spraypaint, they sell at Pep Boys.

And was wrong, it's literally dry to the touch in less than 10 minutes after spraying.

I'm not sure what kind of troubles you are running into with it, but I sprayed the upper part of the cowl, and 15 minutes later masked off the ram air tubes and painted them no sweat.

 

Here's the upper with color done. It was the only complicated section, the tail and lower are all white. I'm gonna give it a full 24 hours to cure then I'm gonna hit it with 2000 grit to knock down a few of the rough spots and then I'll clear it. The dark blue on top and the ram air tubes I sprayed first with lacquer and the white and lighter blue are Krylon enamel. Last will be some decal Chris Kruzel made for me.

 

2000's ultra fine finish sanding and you should be safe, but my experience with the duplicolor is it's sooo thin it'll sand right off if you're not careful. I've used their transition paint and even after a few coats sanded right through to primer with little effort.

 

Hmmm

Perhaps I'll clear first and then hit it with the 2000 grit to just make sure the top coat is smooth? I'm using an enamel clear.

 

I just touched up my 'new' 04 GSXR with lacquer- first time using the stuff. One part was primer-repaired on the fairing- I tried to match the blue metallic paint- it's close, but not quite right.. good enough for track anyhow
The lacquer dry time was a surprise- really, 20-30 mins, and it's ready to go. I was shocked! If you're using masking tape, run a razor blade along the edge or you may pull up some of the paint if you let it dry too long.

Way I see it, if it's too nice, I'll worry about it!


I was in the Honda museum in Japan about a year ago- you wouldn't believe how rough and crappy all the old race bikes looked up close- makes my worst rattlecan job look pro..

Of course, the newer stuff was all smooth and shiny, but the old bikes were the highlight of my trip

-Dave

 

Just let the base cure as long as you can (rule of thumb, if you can smell it, it's not done) because the duplicolor is usual acrylic and even if dry to the touch isn't done shrinking. Don't know if you'll get away with not sanding the base some?

 

There must be something wrong with the paint i used, i've never had so many issues with it. Krylon was the brand! DAMN YOU! 3 hours of painting shot away, i ended up stripping the paint with carb cleaner after it was apparently cured, shit sheeted off like i spray pam on the plastic first.. I prepped very well too! No more cheap paint for me thats for sure.

 

not to jack the thread and sorry if this is a stupid question but what can i use to strip old paint off of my plastics and what type of paint do you recommend to redo it with?

 

nevermind.....thanks dude, don't know how i missed it.

 

this is my project

i call her prototype
am no painter by any means but she is my track bike and all she has to do is pass you, not look good

 

i agree ferrum......were they painted before that? if so did you strip all the old paint off first?

 

they were and i did sand them down to the primer and then some
i used the paint booth at my work to do it. i also used some expired military paint
i figured if they are discarding it i might as well use it. i like how it looks too.,
i went to the track and it got a lot of people looking.

 

Rather than a rattle can, you may want to look at those aerosol /jar combos that paint stores sell. These have the typical spray can top, but a glass screw jar at the bottom so you can use real auto paint. I used them a few times years ago to get a coat of color on a primered fender, MUCH better spray pattern than a rattle can. Plus, you have an endless choice of colors. You can also use it with clear, but like auto paint, you should wet sand it.

I was thinking about getting a small hobby style airbrush and trying that on some panels. They make some with a 4" pattern, which should work for small pieces of body work.

 

would it hurt to take some paint stripper to the plastics to get most of the paint off before sanding and if so would i need special stripper for plastic?

 

just take your time dont rush than you get runs and than you will be pissed. I had a few runs because o was rushing to see the results.. I think mine turned out aight.. check it out.. all spray paint except the tank...

 

looks great bro! were your plastics new or did you repaint? wondering if i can use stripper to help get the bulk off then take the sander to it. was debating about rattle canning it but after seeing yours i think i'm gonna do it. i may only be doing one color too which will make it a lot easier. ALSO, any idea what i can use to patch some holes or cracks on the track plastics? thanks for your input dude.