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Aprilia RS660 Tech Discussion

Discussion in 'Tech' started by Monsterdood, May 2, 2022.

  1. yokohama1

    yokohama1 Well-Known Member

    Fairly certain this is not where the issue is since it coincided with me installing the Rpaid Bike and possibly doing something with the IMU. I have been reading where that gap is rather critical to be within certain tolerances.
     
  2. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    What do you mean a different IMU?
     
  3. Badger911GT3

    Badger911GT3 Well-Known Member

    An IMU from a 2nd RS660 I bought.
     
    noles19 likes this.
  4. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    I was hoping there was a new aftermarket one I missed when looking:crackup:. Mine seems to be my issue also.
     
  5. yuengling910

    yuengling910 Loose Cannon

    Has anyone experienced a lot of front brake drag on these bikes? Bike has stock master, stainless lines, SBS pads, stock rotors. The wheel drags pretty badly whether the brakes are hot or cold. It drags about the same amount on both sets of wheels we have.

    The stock brake pad retaining pins are still installed. Should I ditch these? I’ve cleaned the calipers and pistons and bled the brakes with no change.

    Thanks.
     
  6. Monsterdood

    Monsterdood Well-Known Member

    I use Brembo Supersport rotors and half the time, my wheel will spin for about 1+ minutes when I spin it. OEM master cylinder, steel braided lines, Stock calipers, Brembo race pads. Sometimes it only spins for 5-10 seconds off I don’t get things lined up as well. Good luck.
     
  7. yuengling910

    yuengling910 Loose Cannon

    That should read: stock brake pad retaining clips.


    That’s pretty good. I’m getting about 1 rotation. I’ve tried loosening and re-torqueing with no change. I’m used to some brake drag on other bikes, this just seems excessive.
    Did you notice a difference before and after changing the rotors?
     
  8. Monsterdood

    Monsterdood Well-Known Member

    Sorry, got them from the start so no baseline to compare to. I would maybe loosen the triples and relax any tension that might be in them and retorque the lowers, bounce the forks off the front stand and wiggle the bars a little and then tighten the top triple clamp. Then tighten the axle and pinch bolt.

    And my caliper tightening sequence is: 1) finger tight 2) back off 1/8th turn so that each caliper can jiggle a tiny amount 3) spin wheel 4) grab and hold front brake while spinning 5) lightly tighten left and then right calipers (a half turn park finger tight on each bolt maybe) 6) release brake and spin wheel again and grab and hold front brake, torque each caliper bolt more 7) use torque wrench to final value

    Sometimes I put the front down and bounce it again after the lightly tightening step and then raise back up. And clean the pistons and all that top of course. Good luck.
     
  9. yuengling910

    yuengling910 Loose Cannon

    Thanks. I’ll give that a try.
     
  10. cse

    cse Active Member

    This may be a silly question, but I'll ask anyway. I'm starting a 660 track build and putting together my shopping list. When I add the Race ECU will I still need the wire harness eliminator plugs (sidestand, lights, etc....)?

    Thanks, Jim
     
    Last edited: Apr 28, 2023
  11. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    Yes for most of them
     
  12. cse

    cse Active Member

    Thanks. It sounds like I definitely need sidestand and possible headlight. Another question, any opinions on Upmap Vs. Race Ecu?
     
  13. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    Thats the million dollar question right now. Both are similar in the fact that for actual Dyno tuning you still need a rapid bike style system.
    Upmap is definitely the cheaper way to go and seems to work well enough to get going.
     
  14. 0100

    0100 Active Member

    Operating Temp question.

    Short: Is it ok to run the bike on track (aka beating the sh!t out of it) with the temp gauge at 2 bars?

    Long: So I ran the bike with no thermostat. Warmed up in pits, temp gauge was at 3 bars, but out on the track was at 2 bars. Added tape to radiator and still 2 bars all day. Air temp was mid 50 degrees out. Not the best choice to run without a thermostat for the air temps we had, but didn't have a spare at the time. I do now. Mainly just wondering if running the bike hard at 2 bars on the gauge is fine or bad for the engine. No clue what actual temps I was at, because it's just a damn bar graphic. I know even at 2 bars the engine felt hot to touch.

    Thanks!!
     
  15. regularguy

    regularguy Always Krispy

    I have the Robem accessory radiator and have run it at 2 bars for several cool track days with no problem.
     
    0100 likes this.
  16. 0100

    0100 Active Member

    Ok great, thanks!
     
  17. regularguy

    regularguy Always Krispy

    What's interesting is the Trofeo cup bikes in Italy read degrees C instead of the stupid bars. Wish we could get that to happen...
     
  18. 0100

    0100 Active Member

    Oh damn, that would be nice to have! Hopefully down the road there will be a software update that will make this happen.
     
  19. noles19

    noles19 Well-Known Member

    I wouldn't hold my breath for a software update from Italians
     
  20. 0100

    0100 Active Member

    Oh I know, I am still waiting on a front wheel I ordered in December. I will be luck if I have it by the end of the summer.
     
    yuengling910 likes this.

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