I wear Specialized Rime 2.0 mtb shoes on my gravel/touring bike and anything over an hour below 50° F in all weather and my feet were getting pretty cold. I'm wearing midweight socks over liner socks and recently found my old Gore-Tex oversocks and added those which helped. I usually ride 2.5 hours and my feet are good to about the two hour mark now. The Gore-Tex oversocks are a little bulky and goofy so also ordered some cheap waterproof breathable socks to try. Gonna try the Specialized BG Foot Beds and maybe order some rechargeable heated insoles for touring duty.
Before I picked up the 45NRTH boots I wore basic Shimano road shoes with waterproof socks and toe covers, which worked pretty well. Look at the Showers Pass socks (three thicknesses), which are well insulated as well as waterproof.
Showers Pass were what I was looking at but didn't have the size and style I wanted so went with knockoffs but will order the SP when available.
Would be surprised if your research doesn't lead you to assioma duos, more accurate, rechargeable, only challenge is finding stock which has improved last few months around here. And assumes he's on a conventional SPD type pedal and will be okay with the Keo style cleats.
I went w/ non-rechargeable. Rechargeable is just asking for missing data on a ride b/c you forgot to charge, not to mention a DOA unit due to a fried battery in a few years. Carrying a $1 coin cell battery is a much better solution IMHO. Also after trying almost all the pedal systems ~10 years ago, never leaving SPD-SL again.
Dead battery is like saying you wouldn’t get di2 because of it. They last +50hrs. Charge once a week if you’re worried.
Agreed, my coach prescribes wattage ranges for my workouts and then switches to prescribing HR (zone 2) for my endurance rides. HR definitely creeps up throughout the duration of endurance rides. Based on my experience, wattage is a true reflection of how “strong” I’m riding and how my “strength” improves.
I ended up ordering some Pirelli P Zero Velos last night from an online shop. I haven't ridden on anything besides GP4000s for 12 years, so it'll be interesting to try these out. I was between the Pirellis and the Vittorias.
Are you talking about power meters? I have the Assiomas, it measures its own battery level and sends it to your paired head unit, you can see the charge level at any time and it’ll warn you at 15% or whatever programmed interval your head unit uses. Currently riding about 40 hours a month and I rarely charge it or the Di2 more than monthly. You can also use Di2 with the DFly unit which will let your head unit integrate with it, and send stats including charge level. I have one but haven’t found time to install it. Anyway. Running out of battery on rechargeable pedals or Di2 isn’t really realistic.
I was taking a look at Pirellis since I just bought new wheels and went to tubeless. Reviews seem to be a bit mixed, I’m on Michelin Power Roads now. Pirelli also doesn’t seem to be carried by many vendors, I’d be concerned about getting re-orders down the road. The Michelins @25c combined with the new wheels (HED jets) are fucking ridiculous. Best traction and cornering stability I’ve ever had on a bike. Descending on mountain roads with them is amazing, and looking at my Strava times demonstrably faster.
I’ve seen mostly positive reviews of the Pirellis overall. Most complaints have been that they focus on group while sacrificing a bit of roll speed. There’s plenty of sources for them, but most are shipping out of the UK. I bought mine from BikeTiresDirect from Oregon. I’ll probably try the Michelin Powers at some point. I’ll admit that I’m a Pirelli fanboy and couldn’t resist the brand name on my road bike. I do hate the fact that they are called “P Zero” and not “Supercorsa,” though.
Still easier to swap a coin cell. Anyways, anything requiring me to switch off Dura-Ace pedals is a non-starter. While Look cleats worked okay, I broke enough that they are a distant second to SPD-SL.
Seems like an odd choice for Pirelli, this is bicycles, not superbikes. I've been on GP4000s forever too. Even when the 5000s came out, I stayed true because the 4000s have better puncture resistance.
The data indicates the 5000 is faster in rolling resistance, but some in the industry say a 4000 up front still makes for a more aero package with the right wheel due to the sidewall profile. Given how popular Assiomas are compared to their pedal competition it seems like a personal choice of yours. I'm going through a pedal and show system rejig across the fleet at the moment, it's a cluster-eff. I should just buy 3x everything and be done with it.
This just makes that " is everyone on here a millionaire" thread more believable. Nice stable of bikes.
I am wanting to update, upgrade my Cannondale slate but, the price tag, and wheel/tire fragility on garbage roads around us, is preventing me from dropping the coin. I truly prefer the fatter tires, taller sidewalls, just from a protection stand point. anyone have some good mid grade suggestions? prefer to stay with shimano hardware, v.s sram stuff. help is appreciated. Ski
What on the Slate needs updating? I thought about the Slate when it came out, but I just don't do enough "gravel riding".
If you want to upgrade something I would do carbon wheels. IIRC you have the Shimano 105 on your Slate, there isnt much to gain by upgrading to ultegra or dura ace, unless you really want electronic shifting.
My slate is the solid lefty fork so, it is like a solid road bike, with the stock gravel king slicks. although, those tires are not really compatible with gravel, dirt road riding. they dont hold up well to sharp stone punctures. I primarily stick to paved roads, paths etc... really, nothing "needs" updating, and yes, it does have the shimano 105 stuff, I dont need, nor want the electric shifting. just lusting after the new hotness. I would like some more speed, easier rolling resistance. I use the bike for cardio, weight loss, maintaining my girlish physique, and cross training for sprint enduro racing, trail riding with the guys on the dirt bikes. Ski