Truck A/C question

2000 GMC Sierra 5.3 with around 210k miles.

I didn't use A/C much when it worked. In '08 the compressor bearing went bad, and since I listened to music turned up all the time, I didn't catch it until it burnt out the compressor itself. No problem.... toughed it out for another 2+ years then bought my Civic as my daily driver, keeping truck for towing to track, and feeling more manly driving to work 3-4 times a month .

Now I'm wussing out more and wanting A/C back in the truck. It's been paid for and relatively in good shape still, so don't want a newer used one since it's only driven occasionally now.

Back when it went out most were saying just replace the compressor, but some dealers (yeah.... I know) suggested due to its age to replace nearly the entire A/C system (Compressor, Accumalator, Orifice, Drier) since it possibly could have gotten sludge, metal pieces further into the system when it went bad, and by just replacing the compressor.... I could run into other problems with other parts. I've also read that on some GM forums, so it does seem likely.... just hate to spend the $1000-1,200 for all new system as opposed to $200 for compressor, plus having it charged. A plus for all new would be all new and with a warranty (prolly a year).

What would most of you guys do in same situation (older truck/hi miles)? I know the older farts will say..... "roll the windows down" : )

 

Can you find one from a salvage yard?

 

I thought about that, but even it would be fairly old parts, not to mention the pulling it & installing it. For time & money I'd prolly just rather get all new.

Either doing that or just the compressor. Just wanted to see what most here would do.

 

I'd replace the compressor, accumulator/drier, and o-tube.

I did this on my car last summer; the o-tube was <$10, the accumulator/drier about $25.

Not doing the whole job usually guarantees having to do it a second time

 

Pull the orifice tube out and if there is anything metal in the system you'll likely see it there as it's a small screen, and it's easy to get to on that model (passenger side over the wheel well I believe. You'll see where the high pressure line gets slightly larger in diameter (or crimped) and there is a fitting directly behind that. The HP service valve should be right in front of it too if I remember correctly. If you're completely sure the system is empty, pop it open and pull the tube out and inpect. If there is metal you're talking replacing the condenser, compressor, drier and flushing the other components well.

I dotn know what you mean by "completely burnt out the compressor" as the hub bearing has no effect on the internals of the system. Sure the bearing needs to spin and you may have burnt the front seal of the compressor but should have no real issue with the internal workings if the the refrid. just leaked out because of that episode.

 

If there is any debris in the screen, metal or otherwise, the system will need to be flushed.

 

At the very least get a compressor and orifice tube. If you want it to work right get an accumulator (receiver/dryer) and a condenser. Some parts stores have kits. You NEED to vacuum the system before you charge it.

There are gonna be people who say "Throw a new compressor on there and charge it up." Not good advice. I just did the whole shebang on my F150 (well, twice due to a defective compressor) and I get 37 degrees at the vent constantly. It's just too much of a pain in the ass not to do it right.

 

As stated above. Compressor, orfice tube , accumulator. Flush will be needed if there is any flakes on the old O tube.

Also, if you don't do the three listed above. Your compressor will carry no warranty.

 

^^^^^ This.

 

What fitting timing for this thread to be posted.

Fiancee went to see her aunt and said 5 min from her aunts house she started smelling burning. When she pulled up to the house smoke was coming from the hood. Popped the hood and smoke was coming from front of engine she says. Its a 2011 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2.0t.

Got in the jeep, drove down and inspected it. You can hear knocking and clicking noise, but it was coming more from the valve cover so it freaked me out. Took the serp belt off and the noise went away. Checked all the pulleys/accessories and sure enough the ac compressor was hard to move and pulley was kinda crooked, but the noise went away with the serp belt off. Seems the noise was being amplified through the engine and the plastic valve cover was acting like a speaker.

Anywho, so i hope it was just the clutch and pulley bearing that went and not the compressor internals. How can i tell if the internals puked vs the clutch/pulley bearing?

I guess this isnt something i can replace at home? Swap the compressor and then have a shop recharge it?

 

You definitely have a compressor or clutch issue. The clutch pulley should not be crooked. It should also only make noise as it cycles on and off (clicking). My guess is the clutch locked up and bent the shaft inside the compressor. See my post above about the best way to fix an a/c system.

I replaced my own compressor but it was a huge pain in the ass. I ended up taking the wheel and inner fenderwell off. Then I had a buddy who is a mechanic and has an a/c machine vacuum and charge the system.

 

Some clutches are not available without the compressor attached.

I ran into this problem on a GM truck.

 

That's how I found out..... raining, had the defroster on, and started smelling the electrical burn, and a loud whine. Drove straight to a shop, and they told me it was a burned out compressor from the bearings gone bad. They cut the belt off also. Again.... this was 8 years ago.

 

Helpful info here guys.... much appreciated. I'll check the o-tube this week.

 

Just do this. Flush the tubing, evaporator and condenser. I flush the parts using lacquer thinner, pour the item full using a funnel and rubber tubing on one fitting, connect rubber tubing running into a gallon jug on the other side, then blowthe lacquer thinner through with air into the jug. Just be careful not to get the lacquer thinner in your eyes or on the paint.

 

I dealt with this early 2015 on my 2001 Chevy Suburban 1500. Got a $1200+ quote from local shop. Instead, bought a "kit" from an ebay seller for $225 shipped with a new compressor (and looks like they sell it for $45 cheaper now, this looks like same one http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-AC-COMP...C-REPAIR-KIT-FOR-CHEVY-SUBURBAN-/290339667912). Included compressor, accumulator, etc. Has a one year warranty. I did not replace the condenser.

Threw it in myself in an afternoon and charged it with some cans from pep boys. It blows very cold (it was 109 degrees yesterday and I could still turn it off after 5-10 minutes and just drive on recirc) and hasn't blown up yet (knock on wood). My truck "only" has 165k, but similarly is paid off though total value isn't worth much. It's super easy to work on so as long as I get a couple years out of it I'll be happy. I'm constantly waffling as to how much longer I'll keep it (probably until it blows up) which is the big reason I couldn't stomach the shop-quoted price (not that I though it was an unfair price for what they were going to do, just I didn't want to pay it).

 

Go on Rockauto and look up your parts. They will tell you what has to be replaced to satisfy the warranty. Find a mechanic with gauges and a vac pump and save some cheddar.

 

Thats what i'm leaning towards. replace the compressor, flush out the condenser, lines etc, and then take it to a shop that can vacuum the system and charge it back up.

 

FYI, some retailers, such as AutoZone, can lend you the gauges and vacuum pump for a deposit fee.

I own a set of gauges, but I borrow the pump from AZ.

 

I use a compressed air operated vacuum pump, like the one from Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html. Costs $20, but it needs a decent sized compressor to operate it - around 3.5 hp or larger.