Tool Chest In The Trailer

thanks jig

 

two very important things to remember:

1) each pin needs to travel through two very rigid points on the box that are as far apart as possible. keeps the pin from tilting

2) the lowest of those points should be as close to the floor as possible. minimizes mechanical advantage.

(another option if you can't get two points for each pin on your box is to screw a 4x4 to the floor where you want your holes. drill through that. then you would only need one point through your box.)

i think the ideal would be to mount two small plates (angle iron?) with holes in them on the wall on each side of the box....pretty high up on the box. then mount two small plates with holes in them to each side of the box that line up with the wall plates when the box is rolled in place. this would allow the pin to be very small. (edit: shit...the holes in the box could actually be through the top of it...no plates needed on the box)

damn...i got really sidetracked....i gotta go load the trailer for tomorrow.

 

I've got a friend who drilled two small holes in the back top of his tool box. He then mounted gate latches on the wall of his trailer. Roll the trailer up to the wall....push the latches down...locks in place!

 

Thanks for the help guys.

I think this weekend I'm going to look into a couple of these ideas. Guess placement of the box is strickly up to me. Might use it as some of the tounge weight. But after I have the leaf spring might ride better of the axles.

 

This is the first day I put in the divider. A bungee is shown, but I actually use a ratchet strap over the top of the tool box, in conjunction with the 2x4 framing. I use the area to the left of the tool box for miscellaneous crap that likes to roll around.