I'm about to try to get the shock off my R6, after reading some past threads it looks like it's going to be a bitch and I'll probably have a couple questions. But my first one is about jack stands. I've always used them under the pegs but when I put this bike on them I noticed the right peg was bent up a little bit. I'm not sure if this is from a previous crash or the weight of the bike is bending it. Are the pegs strong enough? Could I put them under the rearset blocks where they mount to the frame or is that a weaker point? I don't want the thing falling over.
Pegs are plenty strong. You will need to remove several parts. Seat and gas tank being top on the list. Put bike on jack stands remove one side of the dog bones, to gain access to the lower shock bolt remove seat and gas tank, this will allow access to the top clevis bolt You will need to undo the clevis bolt to get the shock out Modification to make it easier: For the lower mount, flip the bolts in the dog bone around, so all you have to do is remove the nut, and push the bolt back, this will allow you to swing the dog bone out of the way. drill a hole in the side of the sub frame, this will allow access to the top shock bolt without having to remove the clevis On the clevis, grind off part of the square shoulder, so the clevis will rotate sideways. Then weld the nut onto the clevis Those modifications will allow shock removal in less than 5 minutes.
In addition. Switch the bolt to an allen head. Using a ball head allen you will not have to rotate the clevis (and the hole in the subframe MUCH smaller)...makes it even quicker. Use a shorter nut and a bolt absolutely no longer than required. JMO
Thanks for the tips guys, it's a bit of a pain but the worst part was trying to break all of the bolts loose, whoever put them on went crazy on the tightness. I ended up putting a 1 1/4 wrench on the end of a half inch ratchet and using everything I had to break the clevis nut. I don't have a manual, anyone have the torque settings for the shock bolts, dogbone, and clevis? I'm assuming it's way less than they were at.
I noticed after I posted the pic it was an ohlins, the pic of my bike didn't have the shock installed, just the hole in subframe.
Reading stuff like this constantly reminds me why I only race a Suzuki. Working on them is at least a thought process that went into the design.
Suzuki has, over the years, been the best Japanese manufacturer about considering maintenance when they design their sportbikes. Consider the three piece crankcase on the 1000s (which they no longer do). Yamaha is probably the worst. But the Yamahas win a lot of races. I think I have proven that, if you're focused, you can win races on whatever brand you choose, within reason. I didn't have to design a lot of parts to win with the Suzuki, but I had to make a whole bunch of stuff for the Yamaha. Hayden loved the feel of the Suzuki, but lap times were a couple tenths better on the R6, back to back. As Metalhead would say, the end.
Captive wheel spacers Shifter mount Capture pins for rear brake caliper Modifications for shock removal Airbox bolt change Key cylinder removal Snorkel attachment Steering stop limiter etc. etc. There is much more to do on the R6. I could think of everything, but...trust me.
I read the thread yesterday and I'm glad I did because I wasn't sure how to get at those top bolts, your advice for that guy helped me. I was just asking about the peg thing, I was paranoid about the one looking like it was bending.
Totally agree :up: I own a Yamaha Super Tenere, a simple valve lash check would be easier done by dropping the engine its so poorly thought out with valve cover access. Horrible bike to try and work on. Upside is its super reliable and requires anything much more than gas and go.
I have a question on this one. I bought this: http://www.gravesport.com/Graves-Motorsports-Yamaha-R6-Upper-Shock-Mount-06-10.html And a 50mm allen bolt to go with it. 50mm is just long enough to completely seat in the threads of the nut welded to the clevis. I've drilled a hole in the subframe and am using a ball head allen socket to get at the bolt... but I still don't see how you get the bolt out far enough to remove side the top of the shock out. This is because the bolt is _just_ long enough that the head of the bolt hits on the inside of the frame mount for the subframe. I've been staring at this thing for a few hours now... what am I missing? Are you still lifting the tank and loosening the top clevis mount allowing it to slide down?
Remove the clevis and grind it so you can rotate it about ten degrees. The bolt will then clear the frame lug.
I've got a Gsxr and a new zx10. Both are very similar in layout but the two things that make the zx10 nicer to work on is the kit harness (Gsxr has a "modified" oem setup/empro) and when you remove the gas tank the battery tray makes a really nice spot to store your tools while working. The downside is the tank has to come off to remove the shock but it's pretty quick and painless with an aftermarket tank cover, 4 bolts total and the fuel line. I went to a buddies to help take the fairings off his 09 R1....I left it up to him before I broke somthing.
Got another question about this. Do you leave the clevis at that 10 degree angle or do you loosen the top clevis bolt and twist it straight once the shock is back in place? If not, doesn't leaving the top of the shock twisted cause a bind when the shock compresses? Or is 10 degrees not enough to cause a bind when the shock is in motion? Thanks again for your time answering my questions!
