RGV250 Carburation Problem? Where to start?

Tom, primary coil should be at .17-.23 ohms.... secondary should be 10-30 kilohms.

Is your tach doing strange things?

Pete

 

Hey Pete,

Yes, in fact the tach did bounce around a few times and I decided to stop until I checked out the coils. Sounds like they are shot. I also had a marginal battery and used another temporarily.



Andy, thanks for the note on the emulsion tubes. They looked fine.



This has go to be an ignition problem. I am going to hunt those gremlins down and then re-visit the carbs later if new coils and wires do not do it.

Regards!
Tom

 

Check your pm's, just sent you a link to a service manual. Includes the electrical system, might help you out in your quest.

Pete

 

not likely. actually, more likely the other way around. the resistor caps significantly help reduce EMI/RFI. i would suggest putting new, 5k resistor caps. cheap insurance if nothing else. ymmv.

vince

 

Getting closer- and further away from the getting it on the road..

It turns out that the CDI module and coils are bad. (Thanks, Pete, for the link to the manual). One of the POs must have pulled the good parts and swapped on their junk (coils, carbs, CDI).

At least the pickup coil is good. Figures. It would have taken some effort to swap that for a bad one so I guess that the @$$hole who did this was dishonest AND lazy.

Also discovered that the tank has a bunch of pinholes that were not obvious Just for laughs I put in gas last night to see if it would hold and it looks like a lawn sprinkler. The PO showed a video of it running with the tank on. No way there was gas in it. Pretty slimey.

Well, I have not thrown in the towel. I am hunting down coils and a CDI. Guess I have to either find a new tank or get this one re-done. Anyone know of a good tank repair service?

Regards!
Tom

 

just out of curiousity, how was it determined the coils and CDI were at fault?

vince

 

Hey Vince,

I used a multimeter to test the coils and CDI using the values from the Suzuki manual. I am not so sure about the CDI now as the there there are diodes in a number of the circuits that would give wacky or no reading off of the CDI. I am going to try to find a Suzi dealer who has a real CDI tester.

The coils definitely have bad readings and I am going to swap those anyway due to one of them having a cracked case.

Any other suggestion for verifying the CDI?

 

The quick and dirty way to check your CDI is just to jump your spark over to an earthed area on the bike. If the spark will jump say, 3/8 of an inch, your cdi is "probably" OK

Pete

 

Don't bother replacing old ignition parts with other old parts unless they are cheap. Zeelectronic or Ignitech are modern stuff, relatively inexpensive, tuneable, can make it run a lot better around town or track. Read up at RGV250.co.uk.

 

Hey Pete,

>>The quick and dirty way to check your CDI is just to jump your spark over to an earthed area on the bike. If the spark will jump say, 3/8 of an inch, your cdi is "probably" OK<<


Yes it will do that when I kick it with the wires off, but I think that it is cutting in and out when trying to come off of idle. It will pull up to red line once in awhile and then drop off with no change in throttle position when running. It is really erractic, so I think that it must be the ignition. I have a new set of coils on the way and will see what happens.

I was also thinking the same thing as the last comment from edgefinder- to just get a modern CDI box and not screw around with old, used parts as they are pretty expensive and I would not be certain that an old CDI from the UK or Australia would be good anyway.

Regards!
Tom