r6, hanging idle when the bike is hot. tight valves?

yes, even the new-ish ones. Not much adjusting to do really.

 

that's what i prefer to set my engines too.. 2,100-2,300 it makes the oil pressure very happy when running some of the good oil

 

ah.. good point. I don't ever let em idle, and I preach that to anyone with an 3rd gen r6 that will listen. Wonder if it would get into affecting motor braking that high, or any overheat issues (it's gonna be 95 in the shade at pbir this weekend) but hey, i'll try it..

Ed, or any tuner, does 2hp+- sound about right as the HP gain from removing the snorkel of the air filter of the 06+ r6?

 

At least, we saw ~5 on Factory Pro dyno without any tuning; whether the bike was out of tune with the snorkel and in tune without snorkel could be possible

 

pm sent E77.

 

so,
even after the tb swap (and having the idle drop) it still hung about 3,000 on track and good and hot. Not 4,000, and i had increased the COmpIDL to .5 from 0.. but still not staying at 1800 like it would in the pit..

So i set the adjusted the outer tps to read DO:1 - 18 (from 16) at Emry's suggestion and lowered the CompIDl to .2.. would idle in pits at 1650 but never above 1950 or so when hot. (i can live with this ..) keep in mind my DO:1 values on both bikes, and the new set of TB were 16 for closed position, but i have head to adjust the closed throttle position on the power commander program on the other bike a couple times.

I did find in the "trouble shooting" section of manual that an out of spec valve clearance is listed to potentially affect idle. some of my valve clearances were just below min spec (motor has some hours on it). Scheduled to be redone over the next month so will see how it idles after that.

 

Tight valves will make it idle rough but I don't think they would cause high idle...

 

eh... what's the problem? high idle keeps the oil pressure from dipping too low. No need to worry about spinning those bearings

 

lol.. big diff in 4k idle (and slow to drop to that) and 2k idle. when this would occur on my bike, it's like you have no engine braking at all. And a 4k idle in FL will overheat pretty fast if you have some bozo that forgot his grid position.

thanks. wasn't sure about that so good to know.

 

so.. still messing with hangin idle went to a different throttle bodies off a newer street bike, rebuild engine, etc. still had some issues, but not as bad. However last race it was acting up sometimes (so odd, won't do it all the time).
Can someone tell me what "Comp RAM corr" does?? When at zero (as this machine has been set to since i have owned it), my rpms' steadily climb as temp goes up. Even setting comp idle to -.1 or -.2.. (and then cold it idles low, like 1300-1400). But just now i tried "Comp Ram corr" at 2, (as i saw on another riders YEC map) my idle stays low, and i actually had to bump the comp idle to .1 to get it to 1850rpm, even when temp hit 100c

So, i don't know what Comp RAM corr is, but it seems to hold the idle steady even as temp gets to 100c. But will it hurt my power or do something bad ? I did not map the bike with comp RAM corr at 2, it was mapped at "0". i will know if it fixes the idle issue this weekend racin at PBIR. It's intermittent issue. last round, it did just fine, usually hovering about 2,200 after a race. But later in afternoon as it got hotter outside, i came in and it was idling at 4000rpm and F-ed up my race as it had little engine braking.

I also set my D0:1 to "18" from 17 before messing with any YEC settings, but that had no affect on the idle climbing. But it does seem to have gone down (and stay down) after setting Comp RAM corr to 2 from 0.

 

I think that controls the ram air "correction" table. Kind of a trial and error tuning since you can't simulate the intake with ram air when operating on a dyno.

 

well, it fore sure changes the way the bike idles as the engine temp increased.. i tried it a few times to be sure. Set to zero, 1 then 2, then zero , back to 2. No other changes.

 

http://www.yamaha-racingparts.com/downloads/manuals/11_YMS_EN.pdf

"Comp. RAM Correction
Use only when the A/F diverges with increased vehicle speed."

Unfortunately the kit manual does not provide the best instructions....

 

Air pressure sensor acting flaky? Trying to draw a line between idle and comp ram and that's all I can think of.

 

don't know about air pressure sensor but it does read the same as the 2nd r6 i have. So i would have to assume it's ok. And checking temp sensors, they appear ok too... When in diagnostic mode, the air temp reading in my garage is accurate, and spot on with engine temp. then it rises a bit as engine temp rises if the bike is sitting still (hot air affecting sensor) .. so i am pretty sure those are working. ?
That WAS something i though could be faulty in the past though, and switched them out. My thought (as i assume is yours?) is that the temp sensor was telling the ecu it's cold, and changing the map.

 

Don't chase false demons. That's what my grandma taught me. It has continued to be good advice. She's 97, and still smart as a whip. Och, damn it, OUCH!! And I mean SMART. "You happy now..."

You have verified the simple electrical. The FI system is nothing more than a simple response system. So the question is, why does the ECU think that that the elevated idle is ok?

A. It can't physically control (restrict) the amount of air entering the engine to get the rpm to the desired range and is matching fuel to the air flow (What YCCT & FI really does...)
B. It is being supplied bad environmental data (bad sensors or connection, been there.)
C. Demons. 300k of those bikes in the world and Beelzebub is in yours. Better hope the Pope is ready to practice an exorcism and is going to be in the pits.
D. Terminator scenario. The machines are out to kill you, it is smarter than you, it has planned your execution on corner entry.
E. F#@% IT, Flatslides it is. Twin shocks will be the next rage too! I got that covered.



Sorry. I couldn't resist myself. But there may be some good information in my sarcasm.

 

LOL.. that's what i'm naming this bike.. Beelzebub it is, especially when one race it's awesome, then the next time mid race i realize i have nearly zero engine braking due to the idle soaring to 3-4k.

what do the air screws on the back of the throttle bodies do ?? it's a bypass, but what gets bypassed, air or fuel, and does turning the screw in reduce air ?

 

It bypasses the throttle plates. YCCT controls those, but the intake air pressure sensor is monitoring the (ready for it) intake air pressure. IAP and AAP are compared to determine how much fuel is need. (A form of speed-density calculation, big difference = no fuel, small difference = lots of fuel). So YCCT doesn't know where the bypass screws are, but the FI side does. YCCT (It really isn't that smart) will try to control RPM within its range but closed throttle plates are as closed as closed as closed ... whoa. gets.

What happened when flatsides had the slide stop screw set to deep (in)? The carb would run off the needle circuit (mid), not the pilot (low).

Turning the screw in decreases the amount of air that bypasses the throttle plate. This will increase intake vacuum.

And the zero engine braking mid-race... Totally intentional. Learning enhancement mode. Crutchlow was firm believer. Working OK so far. If only it could fix his mouth.

 

My thought was if the AAP was sending bad data, then the map is being altered because it thinks it is getting more/less air in the airbox. And changing Comp RAM then alters the a/f. But that was just a WAG.

 

Good WAG, but checking the values against known values from a unit or the weather service validates that. Comp RAM does what you think (I think..), but because of the modeling method of the R6 FI system it overlaps into other areas (like lots of FI stuff, thus the normal confusion). I think the YEC ECU's use a logarithmic function for the Comp RAM, but I don't have the math in front of me.

A failed sensor should provide erroneous data all the time, a failed connector normally shows up with vibration at a gear/rpm point, heat issues affect sensors that are exposed to large temp differences (crank sensor). This issue doesn't really fit that.

Maybe a rider issue? (Tongue in cheek! )