r6, hanging idle when the bike is hot. tight valves?

you would best call KWS to ask if they do anything with the TB but i am pretty sure they do not.. i would not think a spare set of tb are needed unless someone messed with that tiny screw. Check the TPS positions, and sync the throttle bodies.. should have no issues. i got another set for this bike as i am not 100% sure the screw was not adjusted.

Your issue sounds like a battery or charging issue. It can run it at lower rpm, but after your screaming around track a bit, there isn't sufficient volts to run the injectors, spark plugs, etc. at the higher rpm. CHeck your rectifier too, those things burn up a lot on the r6. That is why i keep mine in the STOCK position right in FRONT of the radiator, not up on the frame like the kit manual shows and some race teams use.. especially in the FL heat. It gets too hot up there.. This very weekend, i loaned Dustin young a spare battery as his r6 was doing the same thing, running.. then mid session it would loose power out on track. BOTH my bikes over the past 3 years have lost stators, reg/rec, batteries, and one bike i had to replace the magnet on the crank !

 

The Comp-IDL value changes idle. If yours did not change, something else is going on.

 

hey Rick, thanks for that info.. it will adjust it even with the sub harness set up too?? it has the adjustment range of -1<>2 .. is that -100rpm to +200rpm ?

And i MAY have FOUND the issue, but it remains to be seen on track next weekend.
I checked valve clearances, all good, couple at tight end of spec, but nothing even near closed up.
Also, and what may have fixed the issue: The bike had idled at 2000+- when i first start it and when cold, then when warm 1850 rpm+- .. but i just put on a nearly new set of throttle bodies, and the bike idles at 1,650! So i am wondering if the teeny-tiny screw on the back had been adjusted?? i did this once on my other bike as i stated earlier, and i could NEVER get it to idle correctly, and it would idle very high. I could never get it set right so put another tb set on that bike.
I also verified this tb. set was synced, all were very even across the digital vacume readout thing gauge.
SO! will see if the high idle thing returns. but i would like to raise the idle up to about 1850 or so with CompIDL on the YEC software..

 

so i experimented myself with the YEC fi matching software COMP IDL, it was always set at "0" but USED to idle at 1850-1900 (before i put the new throttle bodies on the other day). Now, still set at "0", it was about 1650 .. i set compIdl to "2" and it was high, about 2200-2300.. set it to "1" was still about 2,000.. but ".50" was just right, about 1850rpm
value range of adjustment is -1<>2

 

Nice work Greg. Now come to Ohio and help me with mine. :up:

 

We set it at .2. Works really nice. One blip of the throttle and it then resets/lowers the idle. It helps when the R6 doesn't always want to start up right away.

 

may try that this weekend. what does yours idle at when set to .2 Eddie?

LOL.. i like working on em, but i don't like working on em THAT much
STILL crossing fingers that the new-ish throttle bodies will fix the hanging idle issue that would show itself from time to time..

 

At the highest value, it may idle about 3000 rpm or more. At -1, it probably won't idle at all, although it can vary with the fuel map you might have.

 

ah, yes. forgot about that variable.. just crossing fingers the issue is rectified with the replaced throttle body set. Idle came down from 1850 to 1650 with just that change, and the tps values were identical on both sets when running diag mode.. I had to set comp idle from "0" to ".50" to get idle back up to 1850

 

I think around 1600-1800, but don't hold me to that. We tried a few different things on the dyno and that seemed to work best.

 

Comp IDL is totally separate from engine braking though right?? the engine braking table (0-30 values) changes how the injectors shut down i'm pretty sure, and is thus how the engine slowly or quickly reduces rpm, changing engine braking.. but does comp IDL have anything to do with how or the rate at which injectors shut down??

 

Yes and no. They are separate, but they do have an effect on each other according to the manual.

 

You'd think it would be, but on the 2012 kit ECU, setting the engine braking values above 35 in the 7-10k rpm range changed the idle, so there is some connection, at least with the new ECU.

 

Comp Engine Brake affects how much the throttle plates stay open on decel. Higher values hold the throttle plates open more which decreases the engine braking. The injectors pretty much shut off until the engine rpm gets near the target idle or if the throttle is opened.

While the values are discrete their applications overlap. Since many of the operational data points are interpolated, high values can affect other areas.

 

Ummm Greg, this is going to be REALLY simple. Turn the idle screw down.
If possible. I love older bikes for this! Haha

 

if only Bob.. on the 03-05 it was that simple. Not so on the 3rd gen r6 throttle body. they put a tiny screw with tiny lock nut in a spot super hard to get to.. for a REASON i'm now guessing. On my other bike, i messed with it countless times after turning it up a tad. I could NEVER get it to idle correctly again. That bike got an Ebay set of TB too..

 

Did you set your idle fueling map at 90-100C?
If you built your map at a colder engine temperature, it could be that the software in the ecu automatically leans the mixture at higher engine temps because you kind of have to to get the target AFR (whatever the guys at YEC and nippondenso decided it should be) leaner at closed throttle then lower engine temps to achieve the correct idle.
If your guy set the idle mixture on the map at say 50C at idle to achieve a good idle and the ecu in it's software leans it down more at higher engine temps (my zook does the same thing) you could need to change the map at idle to richen the mixture a little to get it to idle at higher engine temps. The downside? It'll be boggy at lower engine temps.
Think of the reason you have to use the choke on a dirtbike carb for a bit until it warms up and then the pilot circut then is set to get it to idle properly after warmup.

 

nope, that was the thing about adjusting that tiny screw on the 06+r6. you would do it hot, but it didn't matter. it was SO FRIGGIN hard to get at whit the engine running, then tighten the lock nut without moving the TINY (i mean fuckin tiny) screw when you did, you thought you were ok.. but on track it would be different. So you would go the other way a minute amount, then it wouldn't idle, then back, and it would idle at 6,000 mid race, fuckin disaster.
please.. your givin me nightmares of 3 years ago .. LOL

the flashed box sets the idle about 1850, the yec kit box i can adjust in compIDL .. but it is possible that the screw on it got turned a tiny bit. Like i said, i changed throttle bodies and nothing else, and the idle came down to 1,650 (it was at 1850 with the other throttle bodies, but cold it was 2000, and on SOME hot days, it would hang at 4000).

 

I had a similar problem with the zook. At lower engine temps (120-150) I set the closed throttle fueling kind of small (5-7 in the fuel blocks on my power commander style box).After I would pour the race fuel in. and the motor temp would get to 180-212, the idle would hang up at 3K.
My solution to get the bike to idle down was to get rediculously rich in the blocks from 3250-1750 (12-17) to get the bike to idle down when at race temp.

 

Did you sync your TB?