My experience with honing brake rotors...

well I honed my Braketech Axis cast iron rotors. I was hesistant to hone them too much as I'd rather not hone enough than risk messing up the rotors. Kept the drill on a the slow speed high torque setting which according to the black and decker site said it was 350rpm. So lower than even the recommended speed. Anyway honed each side about 30 seconds on forward speed and 15 seconds on reverse speed. Then did then both again. So maybe a full minute on full and 30 seconds reverse per rotor side. There is a pretty good criss cross pattern on the rotor and all and sure they are brighter as the hone scratches the rotor surface. The inner edges weren't done as well as we were trying to not hit the red buttons on the rotors. Also the rotor surface is pretty well done but I'm sure there are some areas for instance in between the criss cross patterns that maybe got missed. Anyway lessons learned are:

1. Buy a drill with the exact recommended RPM. That way you don't go under like we maybe did. We coulda gone halfway maybe of the high speed setting(1400 rpm) but that woulda been the lower torque.

2. Tape up the brake buttons and any part of the disc you don't want hit by the hone. No matter what the hone will hit the buttons as they are too close to the inner edge of the rotor. The only way you won't hit it is if the drill is mounted in something that won't move at all especially when making first contact with the rotor. The hone whips to the inside of the rotor.

Anyway if I had to do it over I wouldn't risk messing up the rotor buttons or anything just to get a better rotor surface. I mean maybe the rotors will be phenominal now but they weren't in bad shape and the pad material I'm switching to is the CP211 which is a replacement for the CP911 which the rotors were run on before. So probably should have left well enough alone.

Anyway.....

 

Good info! Thanks for writing it up!

 

Glass beading them works best for us

:up:

 

power sanding by hand isn't the way to go. Your hand sander will follow the same wear pattern that you are trying to take away and it will take longer to bed the pads in. You would be better off just having them bead blasted. If you want the cross hatch pattern back in the surface, then the only way is to have them reground on a rotary surface grinder. It is an easy job if you have removable buttons and you have a Blanchard (rotary surface) grinder. This process will make the rotor precision flat again and give it the factory look.

 

I didn't power sand. I use the Flexhone which does put the cross hatch pattern back in the surface. I found a few posts on here where people raved about it. Also Braketech said either the Flexhone or bead blasting. They make the rotors so I assume their advice is valid. I don't have a bead blaster and would have no idea where to find someone who does have one.


By the way everyone who does use the Flex Hone. How long are you supposed to stay on on side? Found a post where someone said they did theirs 10 minutes per side. I did mine like 1 minute 30 seconds per side and that was combined forward and reverse.

 

the flex hone is not gonna eat any of the rotor away as long as you keep the wheel spinning. I did mine for approx. 10 mins or so per side and when i was done, they looked brand new. Just rode the bike on Sunday and the brakes are working GREAT.

 

I've never seen the Braketech rotors new so I have nothing to compare to.

What family member did you find who was willing to spin your front wheel for 10 minutes at a time?

The 10 minute thing I'm not too keen on as the instructions don't mention anywhere close to that time. I'll call Braketech and see what they think.

 

my youngest son, and his arms were hurting.