Anyone have a method of figuring out how gearing changes actually affect the miles that are registered on the odometer? Is there a formula that someone may know of? For example, for every tooth or two added on the rear - the miles registered goes up X or Y percent. Trying to figure out how many actual miles are on one of my track bikes.
you can use www.gearingcommander.com to figure that stuff out. they give percentages of change etc...
i dont think its going to be that accurate. if you figure out the actual mileage go ahead and purchase a speedo healer.
It's all ratios, right? The R6 measures countershaft revolutions. 16/45=2.81 16/43=2.69 If stock is 16/45, then 16/43 is 4% taller. If you did 100 miles on the stocker, that's 104 on the revised gearing. etc.
its all calculated ratios. the actual number is different due to tire slip, clutch slip and wind resistance, etc. the cluster with stock gearing is still ~10% inaccurate. it will put you close but not accurate.
Thanks. And the expansion of the universe since the big bang needs to be taken into account. The theory of relativity would indicate that space is bending more as he approaches the speed of light. The guy wanted a formula.
yes. each bike has a diff coefficient of drag spec. the wind resistance is pushing against the bike at speed causing more rpm than if there wasnt wind resistance. each bike is different so the change in rpm will be different on each bike. this measurement is very difficult to calculate because theres other factures such as head wind, tail wind, air density, altitude, etc that affect coeffiecient of drag numbers.
Wow! It's all mechanical (gearing, tire size etc...). Wind resistance has nothing to do with speedo accuracy. If it does, then this might be new development since I got my degree in '97.
mm.. no. unless your clutch or wheel are slipping, wind resistance has no bearing on rpm as compared to speed.
Hey Read alot of your reply's, and it seems like you know your stuff. Got a little question here. Do you know the reason why the big teams dont use 14 t front sprocket on the R6's? heard something about you will get smoother power delivery etc with bigger front sprocket. This have been irritating me not to know!
It's more probable that it destroys chains more quickly. Slinging a chain around a 14 tooth sprocket and the required smaller rear sprocket is hard on chains (re: lots of heat). As a tuner, you always strive for smaller chainwheels, but 14 is probably too small unless you're at Bonneville or you just have no other choice due to available sprockets.
^ is there any truth to the notion that small front sprockets put more stress on the countershaft/transmission? i have a friend who absolutely refuses to go down teeth in the front from stock and will only go up in the rear. he claims going down in the front severely shortens the life of the tranny.
wind resistance causes more rpm.. maybe if bikes had an automatic trans like cars. Wind may slow you down, but with a manual trans your rmp is in direct corellation to the speed. Cars, sure, the rpm goes up with an automatic trans if there is additional towing or wind resistance from the torque converter. That is what it does. 14t may put more stress on the cs. I have heard that argued. that along with the heat generated as each tooth is in direct contact more, AND the chain creating more friction on the plastic swingarm guide has kept me away from using anything below 15. The newer r6 (06-09) i have found no tracks requireing smaller than 16 (stock) front, in fact i have a 17 on it as much or more of the time. RM, im still wiping up spit soda from the Mr. Sunshine post in the brake lever thread..lol..
i Can agree with the heat. If the chain is not lubed absolute properly the chain and sprockets gets very varm! One time i also managed to melt the cush rubbers in the rear wheel on my old 06. The only reason we use 14 t is because we got some small tracks. Tough its just to go up some teeths on the rear and problem solved. Thanks =)